X-Metal woes...

[Venom Power]

So, I was driving yesterday with OSO and he noticed as I dropped a couple gears and mashed the gas #1900's rear end would sway slightly. I took her back home to get the SRT-8 but before we left he looked under the bed and noticed one of the U-bolt nuts had backed off significantly. He took a ball-peen to it and, with a slight tap on the aluminum block, showed how the block was jumping around in place, held only by its retaining/centering pin. I tried to tighten the nut this morning but it was stripped (just spinning in place).

I took her to my local suspension shop where they informed me that the U-bolts were too small/thin for that application. "But," I said, "That's a custom X-Metal drop kit." No that didn't hold weight at all. The dude showed me how the rest of the U-bolts were barely holding on and were weak. He immediately ordered a thicker set of U-bolts custom made to order out of harder metal. The aluminum blocks will also be upgraded to handle the force that would have done me in if I had hit the track with the drop parts as they were.

:dontknow:I don't know how many of you out there still use X-Metal as your 10's lowering kit. I say you should take heed and monitor your U-bolts every now and then. My plans now will be to hit up JTSVP for a "Stinking" deal on a drop kit.

 

[eddie102870]

So, I was driving yesterday with OSO and he noticed as I dropped a couple gears and mashed the gas #1900's rear end would sway slightly. I took her back home to get the SRT-8 but before we left he looked under the bed and noticed one of the U-bolt nuts had backed off significantly. He took a ball-peen to it and with a slight tap on the aluminum block showed how the block was jumping around in place, held only by its retaining/centering pin. I tried to tighten the nut this morning but it was stripped (just spinning in place).

I took her to my local suspension shop where they informed me that the U-bolts were too small/thin for that application. "But," I said, "That's a custom X-Metal drop kit." No that didn't hold weight at all. The dude showed me how the rest of the U-bolts were barely holding on and were weak. He immediately ordered a thicker set of U-bolts custom made to order out of harder metal. The aluminum blocks will also be upgraded to handle the force that would have done me in if I had hit the track with the drop parts as they were.

:dontknow:I don't know how many of you out there still use X-Metal as your 10's lowering kit. I say you should take heed and monitor your U-bolts every now and then. My plans now will be to hit up JTSVP for a "Stinking" deal on a drop kit.

not to cut tony out of a sale or anything but stiffer u bolts on the rear should do the trick antnee-save you some dough for that nitrous kit. u get myy text message

 

[Venom Power]

not to cut tony out of a sale or anything but stiffer u bolts on the rear should do the trick antnee-save you some dough for that nitrous kit. u get myy text message

I just got it last night.. Hold it for me cause funds are being directed toward TWO SE GTG's at this time. And the Stinker drop? That will be later down the road.. Get my drift?

 

[eddie102870]

I just got it last night.. Hold it for me cause funds are being directed toward TWO SE GTG's at this time. And the Stinker drop? That will be later down the road.. Get my drift?

its all cool. just let me know its all still in the box. hell if your sure ill bring it to steele and you can pay me when you get ready. not like its going anywhere

 

[Venom Power]

its all cool. just let me know its all still in the box. hell if your sure ill bring it to steele and you can pay me when you get ready. not like its going anywhere

I'll be in Steele for sure. We'll definately square up the deal for it. is it ZeX? NoS?

 

[eddie102870]

I'll be in Steele for sure. We'll definately square up the deal for it. is it ZeX? NoS?

zex, ill call you when i get off of work.

 

[BadCompany9119]

Thanks for the heads up going to go check on mine right when i get home.

 

[RB04]

thanks for the info, Ill have to check on mine:congrats:

 

[Tooloe]

tonys U bolt kits are the shit... not gonna lie.. ask him when i was installing mine... i called to make sure the U bolts were correct they are F'n huge

 

[Silverback]

Were they re-torqued after the initial installation?

 

[kyle's srt10]

Your blocks should be fine. Especially with longer U bolts you should re-torque or at least check them often Mine were the same way

 

[Black1]

Doesn't surprise me one bit.....

 

[6pakattack]

Guess I better check mine again to be sure !!!:rock:

 

[Borden's SRT]

Yes everyone should be checking them. obviously its not an isolated incident. if for nothing else but for the safety of yourself and those around you. Might not be a huge deal but the potential is there for a bad situation.

 

[Begood]

I bought my blocks used from another member, minus the U-bolts. So I just went down to a spring shop and bought some U-bolts from them. I have had no problems with them for 4 years.

Bill.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

usually ubolts should be initially tightened to about 100 ft lbs, then after the first 500, and I highly suggest checking them every oil change thereafter

 

[FATJACK]

Yes everyone should be checking them. obviously its not an isolated incident. if for nothing else but for the safety of yourself and those around you. Might not be a huge deal but the potential is there for a bad situation.

Now what the hell do you know you car drivin scum!!!

 

[FerrariTruck]

thanks for the heads up. I will take a look at mines

 

[Venom Power]

Were they re-torqued after the initial installation?

Actually NO John, and I'm sure that's the reason for the block wear. My beef isn't with the aluminum block, my beef is with the Home Depot grade U-bolts that were used in the application. I wish I took a before picture of what was going on under there, but the after picture is below with the block wear photos.

I already made an appointment to have the new U-bolt nuts re-torqued on Tuesday.

Here you can see where the centering pin hole is worn out of round.

The squeeking from all this wear was getting on my last nerve.

And here is the set up now. Thicker, harder U-bolts and cast iron blocks. The shop (4-Wheel Auto Parts) replaced everything (both sides) for about $315.00 total. Not too shabby considering the chaos I would have experienced had I taken #1900 onto the track. All that shite would have broke up under there, :dontknow: even if I DID drive her down the 1320 like a pansy.

 

[Tooloe]

glad to see you got her fixed up though!... i ned to recheck mine but i tack welded my nuts to the U bolts so i thin i'm still ok hahaha