Cam install

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MacksSrt

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I'm looking at the mopar comp coupe cam. What is a reasonable time to swap a cam? I s/w a dealership and they said 14hours!!!

This would basically round out a one lap of america type package(i.e cai,pcm,headers,catback,cam). But, I'm not paying $1300 for labor to install a cam. That just seems outrageous. I could be wrong though.

Does anyone have the mopar installation instructions for this? I checked the sticky.

Thanks in advance!
 
thats about what it will cost unless you do it yourself, is that with parts included
 
i charge more than 14... thats fair. you must pull the heads off. its a big job.
 
TheMoparConnection said:
i charge more than 14... thats fair. you must pull the heads off. its a big job.
Click to expand...

Engine - Heads = No go.

:dontknow: :D
 
That's a little high but not too bad. The heads do not have to come off if you are keeping the old lifters. The lifters will stay up out of the way when you rotate the old cam before pulling it.

Well, they are supposed to anyway. :D
 
If you are going to install a cam there are a few other things that you could accomplish at the same time with a little more investment...forged rods, diamond pistons, put striker heads back on...

I mean, if you are going to put in a cam, why not accomplish some other things while your are in there?
 
Prof said:
If you are going to install a cam there are a few other things that you could accomplish at the same time with a little more investment...forged rods, diamond pistons, put striker heads back on...

I mean, if you are going to put in a cam, why not accomplish some other things while your are in there?
Click to expand...
COST.


That's why, lol. I did my build for less money than it takes to go F/I. ;)
 
im putting in cam without new heads or forged internals but im putting roe on top to push more air through. maybe forged internals and heads later on down the road.i imagine ill need a tranny and rear end before forged internals to try to get it to the pavement.
 
Prof said:
If you are going to install a cam there are a few other things that you could accomplish at the same time with a little more investment...forged rods, diamond pistons, put striker heads back on...

I mean, if you are going to put in a cam, why not accomplish some other things while your are in there?
Click to expand...

N/A build? :rofl: :rock: but seriously.. that's alot of cash were talkin bout'

Sharpi
 
Just seems to me that if you are going into the engine then it should be with the intent to do what needs to be done with the pan dropped and the heads removed. Other wise you will be paying the tear down and put back twice...

Go with a mild tune on the Roe, avoid the cam and interal forged parts until you want a big build...(figure on 650 rwhp as the top)...or do as Tim has done, build from the inside out, and plan on the possible addition of FI later. I am convinced that Tims approach is the most logical, unless you never intend to go beyond the 650 rwhp...then leave the internals stock and bolt on up to about 650. It is the most logical and most cost effective way to go...plan your work, and work your plan and you will avoid redundant actions all of which cost big dollars...of course if dollars are not an issue...do it any way you want.
 
im keeping same lifters so my heads dont have to come off, they are installing cam push rods roe, vec3 for under 2k, i thought that was very reasonable especially the cam install.
 
Sorry, just old school I guess...

I changed cams frequently in a prior life...and every cam change included new rods, lifters, and rocker arms...just my strange way of looking at things.
 
Prof said:
Sorry, just old school I guess...

I changed cams frequently in a prior life...and every cam change included new rods, lifters, and rocker arms...just my strange way of looking at things.
Click to expand...
Actually you are right Roy, that is the best way to go on the old motors.

With the roller lifters that we have on these motors though it's really not necessary to change them. And the pan doesn't have to come off when you do the heads on ours either.
 
Prof said:
Sorry, just old school I guess...

I changed cams frequently in a prior life...and every cam change included new rods, lifters, and rocker arms...just my strange way of looking at things.
Click to expand...

I Think Nowhat should be the Professor Of Viper trucks:rock: :rock:
 
You can put the cam in without taking the heads off... you have to be fast and ready with the new cam or use magnets to hold up the lifters. I did a viper a couple of weeks ago and pulled it in, installed the cam, and had it running by the end of the work day. Flat rate time is around 14-15 hours, so most shops are going to charge that. Gen 3 heads sets are not that bad if they pull the heads...price out the gen 1 viper kit....they are around $700 for the gaskets alone.:dontknow:
Not to doubt your cam choice, but there are better cams than the comp coupe cam, even for the roe. That cam isn't a lot diferent than your stock cam...I would guess less than 10-15 horsepower to the wheels...thats a lot of money for minimal gains. Give me a call and I can point you in the direction of a couple of cams I have used in my roe/viper combos.
Good luck,
Joe
 
Prof said:
Just seems to me that if you are going into the engine then it should be with the intent to do what needs to be done with the pan dropped and the heads removed. Other wise you will be paying the tear down and put back twice...

Go with a mild tune on the Roe, avoid the cam and interal forged parts until you want a big build...(figure on 650 rwhp as the top)...or do as Tim has done, build from the inside out, and plan on the possible addition of FI later. I am convinced that Tims approach is the most logical, unless you never intend to go beyond the 650 rwhp...then leave the internals stock and bolt on up to about 650. It is the most logical and most cost effective way to go...plan your work, and work your plan and you will avoid redundant actions all of which cost big dollars...of course if dollars are not an issue...do it any way you want.
Click to expand...

When you are talking about new pistons, rods, and such, I hope you are not saying to break the ridge and hone the cylinders with the block in the truck are you?
 
I have been thinking about this myself. I wanted to hold off on internal mods until my factory warranty was gone. What if anything can be done internally to the engine that will not negate the warranty? Does it matter in terms of if a viper tech does the install? Not to hijcak a thread just seems relative to the conversation.

Thanks,

Chris
 
No worries about hi-jacking this thread. I appreciate everyones input as I'm sure others do.

Joe, I tried to give you a call. No answer(used the # in your sig).
 
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