Hey guys, I was changing break pads and found a seized piston in my front passengers side caliper and a cracked piston on my drivers side. I have ordered new front calipers from Rock Auto but, I have no clue how much break fluid I need for changing out both front calipers. Does anyone know right off hand how much fluid and whats everyone preference. Thanks for any input you can give in advance.
Changing breaks and found a seized piston.
- Thread starter Humblex
- Start date
10-1=9
Full Access Member
I used 4-5 bottles (12oz) of Bel Ray DOT4 fluid the last time I flushed my system. Kept bleeding until new fluid was visible. A quart of quality DOT3 or 4 should be enough.
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
Brakes...4 bottles of motul 600 will do it....new calipers? No, No, No...get the pistons+ rebuild kit.
Last edited:
Just finished the brakes on mine.
New pistons can be ordered through a dealer (as per mopar-or-no-car).
Rebuild parts are all individual from the dealer and not as a kit. The only kit available contains the seals. The rest is your bleeder/cap, pins, attachment bolts, clips, etc.
If you use a turkey-baster, you can remove enough fluid (say, down to the MIN line on your reservoir) before you start and that will save you a ton of pumping brakes until clear. Just don't get any fluid on your paint.
Some dealers I've worked at do only that and NO caliper bleeding at all. They just remove the majority of the fluid and then top it back up.
Last edited:
I'll still rebuild the old ones, just wanted a new set in the mean time. Right now its my DD and I need it back on the road ASAP. Is it hard to rebuild them? I would like to try to do it myself.
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
They are pretty easy..The most important part is removing the corosion in the piston bore..This combined with a lil crap is what normally makes them stick..
Excellent! Thank you good sir for the info.
Ponchopwr70
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2015
- Messages
- 133
- Reaction score
- 4
I'm in the process of rebuilding all of mine ordered centric seals and boots under $40 shipped from rockauto which the centric parts are trw from what I read and ordered some wilwood brake caliper assembly lube and wilwood 570 fluid. It's pretty straight forward, mine weren't sticking but two boots had moisture plus I wanted to compound glaze and wax my calipers. I had to clean them really good with purple power before I detail them so I figured why not rebuild them.
g
g
10-1=9
Full Access Member
Just finished the brakes on mine.
New pistons can be ordered through a dealer (as per mopar-or-no-car).
Rebuild parts are all individual from the dealer and not as a kit. The only kit available contains the seals. The rest is your bleeder/cap, pins, attachment bolts, clips, etc.
If you use a turkey-baster, you can remove enough fluid (say, down to the MIN line on your reservoir) before you start and that will save you a ton of pumping brakes until clear. Just don't get any fluid on your paint.
Some dealers I've worked at do only that and NO caliper bleeding at all. They just remove the majority of the fluid and then top it back up.
When just replacing brake pads I always open the bleeders before pushing the pistons back in. After everything is buttoned up give them a quick bleed until new fluid comes out. This way no junk gets pushed into the antilock unit.
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
I'm in the process of rebuilding all of mine ordered centric seals and boots under $40 shipped from rockauto which the centric parts are trw from what I read and ordered some wilwood brake caliper assembly lube and wilwood 570 fluid. It's pretty straight forward, mine weren't sticking but two boots had moisture plus I wanted to compound glaze and wax my calipers. I had to clean them really good with purple power before I detail them so I figured why not rebuild them.
I was always afraid of doing this because of the extreme heat?? The glaze and wax part....
I'm in the process of rebuilding all of mine ordered centric seals and boots under $40 shipped from rockauto which the centric parts are trw from what I read and ordered some wilwood brake caliper assembly lube and wilwood 570 fluid. It's pretty straight forward, mine weren't sticking but two boots had moisture plus I wanted to compound glaze and wax my calipers. I had to clean them really good with purple power before I detail them so I figured why not rebuild them.
Looks fantastic! Why the glaze over paint or powdercoating? Is it able to take extreme heat like pottery glaze or something?
10-1=9
Full Access Member
Guys wax the chrome on exhaust systems without any ill effects. As long as you don't leave gobs of dry stuff caked on them. It helps keep dirt from sticking to them. Also protects them from rust & pitting when the bike sits.
Last edited:
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
Nickel chrome is pretty tough, as is the powder that is used on our calipers, I was just always scared of waxing and polishing mine..I thought maybe the wax would want to bake into the powder...just my .02$
Ponchopwr70
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2015
- Messages
- 133
- Reaction score
- 4
I have no idea if it will hold up long term but after I cleaned them the fronts were faded but the back side was still shiny. My co worker is a body guy so he did one real quick and it shined pretty good. I think the factory paint is an epoxy paint, they did a shitty job from the factory but it is what it is. I'll post up some pics when I'm done.
10-1=9
Full Access Member
I'm no body guy but if you wipe the paint with a soft white rag & no color comes off your safe to wax/polish it.
Ponchopwr70
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2015
- Messages
- 133
- Reaction score
- 4
Here's the calipers all finished. Replaced 2 Pistons due to chips, cleaned, compounded, glazed, waxed, all suspension and bolts cleaned, new oem rotors, centric pads, jtsvp braided hoses, new bleeders, viper decal etc.
Ponchopwr70
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2015
- Messages
- 133
- Reaction score
- 4
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Great looking job! I often find on customers trucks that wearing pads beyond indicators is what sticks/breaks pistons as they travel into a corroded area of cylinder bore and don't retract as they normally would. Keep those pads changed when it's time. You don't wanna know how many I've seen with NO PAD LEFT!
earl lee
Full Access Member
Man your suspension is to clean I wouldnt even be able to drive my truck if my stuff was looking that shiny. Since it doesnt, I drive it every other day, lol.
Support Us
Become A Supporting Member Today!
