Got a Header Leak

i did the retorque procedure with my Belanger headers & they still went to leakin.
went with the Cometic gaskets, but the OEM should do ya a good job. both are the MLS gaskets.
when i got the headers back off the Belanger gaskets were hard & very brittle. just fell to pieces. made clean up a breeze though.
went with Totally Stainless header bolts & their lock washers. the bolts are the 6 point 3/8 head. helped to get at all the bolts a bit easier with a 1/4" set up.
have rechecked the bolts twice now with not a one bein loose.
be sure to put a bit of anti-seize on the bolts. i use the copper kind.

:rock: :dontknow: :rock: :dontknow: :rock: :dontknow:

time to check out the catless mid pipes now.:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:
 
Stinker said:
I have had the best luck with oem gaskets bro, they seem to seal the best:dontknow:
Thanks, Tony... Looks like I'll be ordering a set of OEM gaskets.

ZCx said:
went with Totally Stainless header bolts & their lock washers. the bolts are the 6 point 3/8 head. helped to get at all the bolts a bit easier with a 1/4" set up.

Thanks for this info... Can you give me a link to where I could pick up a set of bolts and lock washers? Are these better than the Stage 8 bolts?
I want to make sure I get the best setup.
 
totallystainless.com is their thingie.
Stage 8's or these should do ya a great job.
the Stainless bolts are that, ARP bolts, & a different style lock washer.
only thing i have heard neg. about Stage 8 is that it can be tricky to get the E-clip on sometimes.
they got alot of neat stuff. got bolts for the intake comin in.
 
ZCx said:
i did the retorque procedure with my Belanger headers & they still went to leakin.
went with the Cometic gaskets, but the OEM should do ya a good job. both are the MLS gaskets.
when i got the headers back off the Belanger gaskets were hard & very brittle. just fell to pieces. made clean up a breeze though.
went with Totally Stainless header bolts & their lock washers. the bolts are the 6 point 3/8 head. helped to get at all the bolts a bit easier with a 1/4" set up.
have rechecked the bolts twice now with not a one bein loose.
be sure to put a bit of anti-seize on the bolts. i use the copper kind.

:rock: :dontknow: :rock: :dontknow: :rock: :dontknow:

time to check out the catless mid pipes now.:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:


ZX my mind is ablown this evening with wires, do ya remember the size?

here is a link to arp

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
 
yep. they were 5/16-18 x 1".
best i could tell had 1 maybe 2 threads left with the Cometic gaskets & 5/16" thick header flange, so good thread engagement.



i knows whats ya means on the wire thingie:rock: :rock: :rock:
 
So according to arp catalog the 5/16 comes in packs of 14 and about $30 a pack for the stainless 12 bolt, that sound about right?:dontknow:
 
Stinker said:
So according to arp catalog the 5/16 comes in packs of 14 and about $30 a pack for the stainless 12 bolt, that sound about right?:dontknow:

Cool... I'd like to buy em from ya. Just let me know how much and I'll paypal you the cash.
I'll PM Dragon for the gaskets.
 
yep i gots spares, lol:rock: :burnout: :rock: :burnout:
 
You want the hex head or the 12 point head?

It would take about 4 days to gettem to ya, the warehouse dont stock em, so they would come straight from arp bo, and that usually takes an extra day or so, i want to double check the price too
 
Stinker said:
You want the hex head or the 12 point head?

It would take about 4 days to gettem to ya, the warehouse dont stock em, so they would come straight from arp bo, and that usually takes an extra day or so, i want to double check the price too

Let's go with the 12 point head.
4 days is cool. Thanks again.
 
Quick Question.... Seeing as I probably won't be receiving the bolts for a week, can I do any damage by driving around with a leaky gasket?
 
portlandsrt said:
Quick Question.... Seeing as I probably won't be receiving the bolts for a week, can I do any damage by driving around with a leaky gasket?
I wouldnt do any hard prolong downshifting with a leak at the head, it's possible to suck cold air in and burn the valves.
 
Westxsrt10 said:
I wouldnt do any hard prolong downshifting with a leak at the head, it's possible to suck cold air in and burn the valves.

I'm borrowing a friends car, just to be safe. I've got the header bolts being shipped to me via 2-Day air,,, and hopefully Dragon is in town so I can get a OEM header gasket soon.. Thanks for that info!
 
UPDATE: Got the ARP bolts and OEM Gasket installed last night.. THANKS TONY!!! . Took me around 3 Hours... All is well.. No leaky leaky...
I'll post pix later tonight but after pulling off the drivers side header, the gasket just fell apart. It was in around 8 pieces. Incredibly brittle..
 
Here are a couple of pix of the aftermath... I have no idea what type of gasket was originally used. I can't make out the name on the backside of it. Regardless, the gasket was incredibly brittle and just fell to the ground when I unbolted the drivers side header. It just fell apart. Replaced it with the OEM Mopar gasket and ARP bolts. I also put in a pic of the bolt (THE??) that was holding it in place.
The passenger side header is still holding strong with the other gasket and bolts. Haven't touched that side in over 30K miles. The dealership put on these gaskets when I bought the truck at 16K miles. It's puzzling why the dealership didn't use Mopar gaskets.

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IMG_0469-vi.jpg


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