Intake Air Temperature Code thrown... getting stumped....

[deeduncan]

Hey guys!
Loving my SRT 10 that I acquired a few weeks ago. When I got the truck it had a K&N CAI, and magna flow catback exhaust installed. About a week ago, I decided to do the Roe Pin kit on the damper pulley and get that squared away so I wouldn't have any future problems. Anyway, I put the truck all back together and the check engine light came on, Code was for the Intake Air Temperature. I used a buddies OBD II scanner, cleared it and it came right back on, took the negative battery cable off for about 30 minutes, came right back on. Went to Rock Auto, bought a new IAT sensor thinking I may have damaged it when I removed the CAI. Installed the new sensor, unhooked battery cable for 20 or so minutes. Went out for a drive and all was well then after about 10 minutes the light came right back on and pretty much has stayed on since. The truck seems to run fine, and I can't imagine what I could've done. Check engine light never was on prior (A friend owned truck before me and I've been around it for about 4 years) to any of this. So I'm kind of stumped. It has a little red box that looks as if its tied into the sensor that says FuelMaxx on it, I'm assuming that was something that came with the aftermarket cold air intake, is it possible I screwed that up? Any thoughts?

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

 

[SRT2SLOW]

Disconnected from the box and throw it away and put all the wiring back to stock.

 

[oldcolt]

A pic would help> I have never heard of that add on. Check the wiring to make sure nothing has come loose on the plug. Also, touch your battery leads together to clear the PCM.

 

[Slitherbeast]

a quick google search tells me it is a device that will block the correct Air intake temp to the computer so it stays in full timing. Kind of dangerous when the air is hot. Remove the device. Wire the IAT sensor correctly without the device.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Lmfao! Yup trash

 

[deeduncan]

I'm a little confused as to what this thing even is?! And how do I get rid of it? I don't see how the thing was supposed to be wired stock... Sorry for being a newb!

 

[En4cer30]

They are just snake oil products that intercept the IAT signal and return a static signal making the ECU think the air temp is cooler. These used to work best on Automatics since when cold the PCM would increase line pressure in the auto trans speeding up and firming shifts and not cut fuel/ignition during shifts. It's an old trick we used to do by wiring in a bypass switch., so we could turn it on and off.

Either way, you take signal wire off of the IAT splice into it with 1 signal with from that fuel maxx thing, and then return it back by splicing back into the IAT wire.. I can't see in the pictures, but if you peel back the tubing or tape, there should be those blue simple " clamp" wire tap thingies. Technical terms of course

Just remove them, and remove the box. Repair the wires if needed. These are usually installed without cutting. However those blue tapper things sometimes split the wire.

On a side note, if you need, you technically can snip the black and red wires ( throw the box away), and tape the ends off so they touch anything and fix the issue too.

Either way, I would then do an ECU reset (disconnect battery, touch pos to neg) after you are done.

Good luck!

 

[deeduncan]

They are just snake oil products that intercept the IAT signal and return a static signal making the ECU think the air temp is cooler. These used to work best on Automatics since when cold the PCM would increase line pressure in the auto trans speeding up and firming shifts and not cut fuel/ignition during shifts. It's an old trick we used to do by wiring in a bypass switch., so we could turn it on and off.

Either way, you take signal wire off of the IAT splice into it with 1 signal with from that fuel maxx thing, and then return it back by splicing back into the IAT wire.. I can't see in the pictures, but if you peel back the tubing or tape, there should be those blue simple " clamp" wire tap thingies. Technical terms of course

Just remove them, and remove the box. Repair the wires if needed. These are usually installed without cutting. However those blue tapper things sometimes split the wire.

On a side note, if you need, you technically can snip the black and red wires ( throw the box away), and tape the ends off so they touch anything and fix the issue too.

Either way, I would then do an ECU reset (disconnect battery, touch pos to neg) after you are done.

Good luck!

Thanks!!

 

[earl lee]

Better check and make sure there isnt one of them Tornado fuel saver fans in air intake tube as well. lol

 

[Slitherbeast]

Your best bet is to completely remove the red and black wire from the AIC in the intake tube. the splices may have cut the wires. Might be why you have that code. solder and shrink wrap

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Yup what he said ^^

 

[deeduncan]

Awesome. Thanks guys! Is it necessary to have the truck retuned with the addition of a CAI and catback exhaust?

 

[oldcolt]

Awesome. Thanks guys! Is it necessary to have the truck retuned with the addition of a CAI and catback exhaust?

No, you should be good to go.

 

[rbabody]

Awesome. Thanks guys! Is it necessary to have the truck retuned with the addition of a CAI and catback exhaust?

Have cai, roe Tb, no cats and mopar perf cat back still on stock tune. :driver:

 

[Psycho1122]

Awesome. Thanks guys! Is it necessary to have the truck retuned with the addition of a CAI and catback exhaust?

Like the guys posts have stated. No need to retune UNLESS you want to fine tune and add a touch of timing. These trucks fall over pig rich above 4,500 RPM. My AEM wideband showed 11:1 A/F.

Cheers