Mopar Kicker Upgrades Really Fit?

[FastRam]

get a holt of Stinker for his life time lines.:rock: :rock: :rock:

no mo spots:rock: :rock: :rock: no mo worries:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

p/s probably won't be too far behind:toilet:

Thanks -- I already made the inquiry to 'ol Stink Man...

 

[Exo]

what was the cost of the 2 kits?

 

[FastRam]

I upgraded the red truck to 6 Boston Acoustics speakers and the dash speakers did not have anything but standard speaker push on connectors.
I made an adapter out of male and female push on connectors and short pieces of 18ga wire. Sorry I don't have photos.
I made sure to check the polarity on the old speaker to make sure the polarity/phasing was correct when I hooked up the new speaker....

What a different the new Boston Acoustic speakers made.
Before the change out I was pretty disappointed with the factory set up.
I added the factory Serius sat adapter so I wanted to keep the factory RB4 head unit. I know it is a POS.
But with the speaker upgrade the factory radio sounded good enough to keep me happy.

Jack, thanks. If you have a moment, can you send me the BA speaker numbers you used.

 

[FastRam]

what was the cost of the 2 kits?

77KICK11-AB I purchased via an internet special at $130.50. 77KICK32 was $86.25, shipping for me was $16.45.

I lieu of speakers, I think I am going to use "proceeds of refund" to fund some new oil lines...

 

[Exo]

77KICK11-AB I purchased via an internet special at $130.50. 77KICK32 was $86.25, shipping for me was $16.45.

I lieu of speakers, I think I am going to use "proceeds of refund" to fund some new oil lines...

Where did you get them from?

 

[FastRam]

FastRam, I had the EXACT same problem when I did my Kicker Upgrade.. Same parts and part numbers for my 06 QC. I called Kicker and they confirmed that the 77KICK11AB was the correct part number. What they did not know was that at some point in time Chrysler/Dodge changed the connector. Contack Kicker and talk to T. Rakey one of their Support Techs (email [email protected]) he already knows of the problem and you will be #2 on the complaint list (I am # 1).

What I did to correct the situation was to take a 6" piece of speaker wire and solder it to the existing solder joint where the wires actuall connect (not the plug in connector) and then did a Butt Splice into the existing speaker wires. Worked perfect and the sound is fantastic.

Kicker also "Recommended" the disconnection of the Center Dash Speaker to improve seperation, I tested it with and without and left my factory center connected but you may wish to disconnect it (personal preference on sound)

To borrow Ronnie's line: Hope This Helps...

Sandy, thanks. Did you use the upgraded Kicker amp too? One thing I noted from the 06 DR service manual is that the OEM center speaker channel polarity is reversed as compared to the other speakers. In other words, pin 1 of the center channel speaker connector is negative and pin 2 is positive, whereas all the other speakers have pin 1 positive and pin 2 negative.

I am not sure what the polarity output is of the upgraded Kicker amp and whether or not the center speaker wiring needed to be swapped when using the upgraded Kicker amp. But, I was going to use a spare Kicker amp I have that was sourced from a 06 Magnum SRT-8. And with that amp, the wiring at the center speaker needed to be swapped for correct polarity. This may be a reason why Kicker suggested disconnecting the center speaker :dontknow:

 

[FastRam]

Where did you get them from?

Mopar Super Center, aka Rick Hendrick Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge, North Charleston, SC. FYI: our vendors here should also be able to get them for you, e.g. Stinker (JTS), Avondale or The Mopar Connection.

 

[Exo]

Just ordered from Mopar super center. Did you get the amp/sub upgrade too? Didn't see it.

 

[FSTJACK]

Jack, thanks. If you have a moment, can you send me the BA speaker numbers you used.

I will have to look up the #s as I don't remember off the top of my head.

I will try to do this later today, NHRA today is on right now........:rock::rock::rock:

 

[FastRam]

Just ordered from Mopar super center. Did you get the amp/sub upgrade too? Didn't see it.

Nope. I recall the sub kit was priced around $550 and I didn't have cash in hand. But, for a RC truck, Mopar calls out part number 77KICK13. Sorry, I don't have the kit number for a QC.

For the RC, the sub kit is not plug and play and will require some wiring, e.g. power and ground connections and taps at the LF door speaker for line level inputs into the upgrade sub amp. Also, you basically abandon the OE Infinity sub amp (or remove it) and the kit replaces the entire Infinity sub speaker box. I can't vouch for the Kicker box's physical fitment into the rear storage/package tray area on a RC.

 

[FastRam]

I will have to look up the #s as I don't remember off the top of my head.

I will try to do this later today, NHRA today is on right now........:rock::rock::rock:

Thanks Jack. My daughter took over my TV. With one eye I am on the site and the other is watching Mickey Mouse's Club House :elefant:

 

[FSTJACK]

Thanks Jack. My daughter took over my TV. With one eye I am on the site and the other is watching Mickey Mouse's Club House :elefant:

M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E...Why because we love ya....:rock::rock::rock:

 

[FastRam]

M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E...Why because we love ya....:rock::rock::rock:

 

[FSTJACK]

Jack, thanks. If you have a moment, can you send me the BA speaker numbers you used.

The Boston Acoustic speakers I used were;

Dash S35 3.5" Had to make a couple of pigtails, easy

Door SC95 6X9 I think they just went in and had to cut and splice a couple of wires

Rear S55 5 1/4" I think I had to drill the holes for mounting screws, as I remember it was no big deal

I got everything off Ebay for about 250.00 delivered I think. I did this about 2 years ago so it is a little fuzzy for the installs but there was nothing hard about it or I would have remembered that part. I remember the PITA stuff.

These worked well with the factory RB4 radio. I wanted the radio as Patrick and I installed the factory Sirius sat radio adapter previously, all the steering wheel controls worked that way.
They were a huge improvement over the stock speakers, mids and highs were night and day different. I was not happy with the way the sound was from the factory, very disappointed actually.

I also insulated the interior of the sub box with foam which seemed to mellow it out at high volumes.

This set up is great for the money, it is not ultra high end but a great cost effective way to go if you don't want to spend big $ on upgrades.

It took me a little over 1/2 day to install everything, and I am old and work slow.

Hope this helps as I would do it again in a heartbeat if I changed trucks or got another truck for the street.

 

[Da1Chief]

Sandy, thanks. Did you use the upgraded Kicker amp too? One thing I noted from the 06 DR service manual is that the OEM center speaker channel polarity is reversed as compared to the other speakers. In other words, pin 1 of the center channel speaker connector is negative and pin 2 is positive, whereas all the other speakers have pin 1 positive and pin 2 negative.

I am not sure what the polarity output is of the upgraded Kicker amp and whether or not the center speaker wiring needed to be swapped when using the upgraded Kicker amp. But, I was going to use a spare Kicker amp I have that was sourced from a 06 Magnum SRT-8. And with that amp, the wiring at the center speaker needed to be swapped for correct polarity. This may be a reason why Kicker suggested disconnecting the center speaker :dontknow:

Yes, I did the FULL upgrade... 77KICK11AB, 77KICK32, 77KICK18AB (Speaker Amp), 77KICK17AB (Sub and Sub Amp). The Kicker Amps actually is what brings the speakers to Life. Instead of a normal 22-24 sound volume I now have normal at 12-14 volume setting. By leaving the center speaker connected I didn't have to deal with the Pos/Neg aspect of the speaker also if you disconnect that would take it out of play as well.

Actually when I ask the Kicker Tech Support they said I could leave it as it or disconnect for more seperation. To them it was more of a personal preference. The guy I mentioned at Kicker ([email protected]) would be better to answer that question, I just know mine turned out fine for me. EVERYTHING with the exception of the Dash Speaker (Tweeter) connections was a Direct Fit and there was NO modifications needed, even the sub box fit perfect. The only part number that changes on the RC is the Sub and Amp that that is P/N 77KICK13.

I got the Sub and Sub Amp from Santeen when he upgraded his system and I got the rest Here (Ask for Ted).

He is a great guy to do business with and is Very Knowledgeable on the Mopar Sound Systems (He is the individual that developed the JET Audio Harness that allows for the install of Uconnect as a Factory Install not the Aftermarket).

 

[FastRam]

The Boston Acoustic speakers I used were;

Dash S35 3.5" Had to make a couple of pigtails, easy

Door SC95 6X9 I think they just went in and had to cut and splice a couple of wires

Rear S55 5 1/4" I think I had to drill the holes for mounting screws, as I remember it was no big deal

I got everything off Ebay for about 250.00 delivered I think. I did this about 2 years ago so it is a little fuzzy for the installs but there was nothing hard about it or I would have remembered that part. I remember the PITA stuff.

These worked well with the factory RB4 radio. I wanted the radio as Patrick and I installed the factory Sirius sat radio adapter previously, all the steering wheel controls worked that way.
They were a huge improvement over the stock speakers, mids and highs were night and day different. I was not happy with the way the sound was from the factory, very disappointed actually.

I also insulated the interior of the sub box with foam which seemed to mellow it out at high volumes.

This set up is great for the money, it is not ultra high end but a great cost effective way to go if you don't want to spend big $ on upgrades.

It took me a little over 1/2 day to install everything, and I am old and work slow.

Hope this helps as I would do it again in a heartbeat if I changed trucks or got another truck for the street.

Thanks Jack.

 

[FastRam]

Yes, I did the FULL upgrade... 77KICK11AB, 77KICK32, 77KICK18AB (Speaker Amp), 77KICK17AB (Sub and Sub Amp). The Kicker Amps actually is what brings the speakers to Life. Instead of a normal 22-24 sound volume I now have normal at 12-14 volume setting. By leaving the center speaker connected I didn't have to deal with the Pos/Neg aspect of the speaker also if you disconnect that would take it out of play as well.

Actually when I ask the Kicker Tech Support they said I could leave it as it or disconnect for more seperation. To them it was more of a personal preference. The guy I mentioned at Kicker ([email protected]) would be better to answer that question, I just know mine turned out fine for me. EVERYTHING with the exception of the Dash Speaker (Tweeter) connections was a Direct Fit and there was NO modifications needed, even the sub box fit perfect. The only part number that changes on the RC is the Sub and Amp that that is P/N 77KICK13.

I got the Sub and Sub Amp from Santeen when he upgraded his system and I got the rest Here (Ask for Ted).

He is a great guy to do business with and is Very Knowledgeable on the Mopar Sound Systems (He is the individual that developed the JET Audio Harness that allows for the install of Uconnect as a Factory Install not the Aftermarket).

Thanks Sandy.

 

[blackviper]

Installed the dash speakers but it took some modification to the connectors and some soldering. The front speaker went in without any problems but they come with some spacers that cannot be used. The sub and amp are a pretty straight forward install. It gives you lots of bass. Almost too much. The rear speakers came in wrong so they had to reorder them. I will be installing those next week along with the the front amp.

 

[SANTEEN]

Installed the dash speakers but it took some modification to the connectors and some soldering. The front speaker went in without any problems but they come with some spacers that connot be used. The sub and amp are a pretty straight forward install. It gives you lots of bass. Almost too much. The rear speakers came in wrong so they had to reorder them. I will be installing those next week along with the the front amp.

HaHa. Wait until you do the front amp. I think I'd rather do the intale manifold again, before I replace that amp.

 

[Da1Chief]

HaHa. Wait until you do the front amp. I think I'd rather do the intale manifold again, before I replace that amp.

Amen Brother..... You wind up needing about an 12-18" extention (exact size is in the instructions) with a universal on it to reach back under the dash to get ONE "F-ing" Bolt.

Believe the instructions when it says to go in through the Glove Box. Pulling the Entire Dash is NOT the answer even though it looks like it... Ask me how I know...

Santeen can tell you if what I say is BS...