Oil pressure drops to almost 0 check gauges comes on

[rottenronnie]

Just an FYI. Cavitating your oiling system is the beginning of your engines death. Our gear/rotor type pumps DO NOT like cavitation and are slow to recover from it.

Good luck and Cheers!

Other than keeping the oil pan full of clean, high quality oil, I think it's a really good idea to replace the 3-piece oil pump relief-shuttle with a 1-piece.

Mopar found an oscillation problem on some of the Gen IIIs with the 3-piece and made the switch to prevent problems. When there are rapid pressure fluctuations it can create weird and wonderful changes to the oil stream.

QUOTE FROM WIKIPEDIA: Cavitation is the formation of vapour cavities in a liquid – i.e. small liquid-free zones ("bubbles" or "voids") – that are the consequence of forces acting upon the liquid. It usually occurs when a liquid is subjected to rapid changes of pressure that cause the formation of cavities where the pressure is relatively low. When subjected to higher pressure, the voids implode and can generate an intense shock wave. END.

The plug is on the outside of the oil pump (Driver's side) and is where the relief lives. Although it's fairly easy to get at, it can be bitchy to remove the plug.

The Gen III is a big oil pump compared to many and with a little help, they work fine.

If you are going to rebuild, spend the cash and also upgrade to (coated) Gen IV bearings (and the required minor block mods) and if your engine can breathe properly, feel free to buzz the engine!:burnout:

As a relatively mild street version of a Gen III, I routinely buzz mine to 6600+ with no ill effects.

 

[rottenronnie]

So while I'm driving my truck and it gets to operating temp, I run at about 60 psi but when I am braking and the rpms drop so does my oil pressure. Down to just above 0 psi. Any one had this problem before and if so how did you fix it?

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Hello Alex..

Something else I thought about as a possible source of oil loss other than the mentioned oil cooler lines, etc. The oil filler caps have an o-ring that dries out and cracks over time.

Strange as it sounds it isn't always to see oil leaving that area if it is leaking. Give it a paper towel test and see if it is completely dry in that area.

The o.e.m. replacement caps have a better o-ring than the originals.

Good luck with your quest.

 

[10-1=9]

Hello Alex..

Something else I thought about as a possible source of oil loss other than the mentioned oil cooler lines, etc. The oil filler caps have an o-ring that dries out and cracks over time.

Strange as it sounds it isn't always to see oil leaving that area if it is leaking. Give it a paper towel test and see if it is completely dry in that area.

The o.e.m. replacement caps have a better o-ring than the originals.

Good luck with your quest.

What he said. Had the same thing happen to my 10. Think the O-ring was dried out because it did not look torn or cracked. A small trail of oil would leak out the cap. Then run down the valve cover onto the exhaust manifold. The smell of burning oil is what first alerted me to the problem. A new Mopar oil cap fixed it. Yes you have to buy the whole cap to get the O-ring. It's not available separately.

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

easier to get to with the sway bar off, also will need to buy bigger open end wrenches unless you have a big big toolbox. like 1 inch 1 1/4 inch i forget which. take the new lines to the store with you to size them up