PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Shadow , I did a quick search on bissani's and came up with nuttin, but will keep looking.

i am not a fan too much of wraps, the will cause the metal to turn sometimes and to me they are a fire hazard, I actually had my pipes on my ducati wrapped and well , In turn 7 I came out a blaze , so i may be a bit biased

but let me keep loooking , and maybe borden or one of the others can find out what the deal was?

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

I got a quick one, I just bought bassani headers. And remember reading that there is little mod needed for the passenger side. How little is little? guess i should have asked before i bought but oh well anybody got info would be great.

I have had no problems with the wheel well liner melting. But it is an issue with some installs. At first I tried to put some heat wrap on the fender liner. It stayed on for a little bit, but it eventually fell off. Someone else tried this with the same results.

The big issue I heard of was having to do some modifications to get the passenger side to fit in on the 06's. Azpyro had these issues. But they eventually got it in with a lot of work.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I have had no problems with the wheel well liner melting. But it is an issue with some installs. At first I tried to put some heat wrap on the fender liner. It stayed on for a little bit, but it eventually fell off. Someone else tried this with the same results.

The big issue I heard of was having to do some modifications to get the passenger side to fit in on the 06's. Azpyro had these issues. But they eventually got it in with a lot of work.

thanks sir:rock:

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

Here is Azpyro thread on his header install.

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3734&highlight=headers

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Don't wrap your headers with nothing. I talked with the guys at burns stainless and a couple other shops while searching for a turbo manifold and they all said the same thing do not wrap stainless headers you will kill them faster, 3m makes a great spray glue if your worried but with your headers will actually keep your engine compartment a little bit cooler then the cast manifold, the stainless dissapates heat faster, cast we all know dissaptes heat like shit if at all. If worried about it melting use the heat sheild and 3m spray believe me if you clean the surface of any oil it will hold anything.

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

For my heat wrap on the inner fender the glue stayed on the fender. The actual wrap separated from the glue.

 

[shadow 203]

thanks guys for all the info its a bitch ordering stuff from sunny iraq and hoping its going to work. find out in sept

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

thanks guys for all the info its a bitch ordering stuff from sunny iraq and hoping its going to work. find out in sept

thats what makes this thread so great!:rock:

everyone pitching in to help:rock: I cant begin to tell you guys the pm's and calls I have gotten in the past two days thanking you guys for helping them:rock:

They dont post at all, but read every day, and you guys have helped alot of people


Thank you:rock:

 

[thjones3]

Could please tell me on the fuel rail passenger side at the front there is a pressure (tire) like fitting...Could i install a gauge to i guess monitor the fuel pressure???I seem to have lost the black screw on cap that was there...If i can't put a gauge what thread pitch is it...if i could put a gauge you would suggest which one...Thanks in advance...

That would be the Schraeder (sp?) valve. Yes you can use it for a fuel gauge, although I agree with Stinker that you really don't need to leave one on there permanently unless you are going to use an electric gauge and put it in the cab. Those of us running N2O use that valve to supply the fuel for a wet shot (with the valve stem removed of course).

 

[Rickspeed]

Ok so right now my truck is dropped, transgo shift kit, mag hytec pan, and I got a JMB intake with catch can. I am picking up a stage 2 ecu that i will need to get re flashed, and a set of used catless mids with sims as soon as Craig gets them off his truck. I am planning to go with the NX dual fogger set up down the road. Will I need to get the ecu flashed everytime I add a new mod? If so I will just add the performance mods now, and work on exterior later. Also are there parameters for nitrous in the flash, because I do not want to lose power under normal driving, or can I just run the normal stage 2 and add nitrous. The only thing I am woried about is that if the stage 2 advances timing? Thanks.

 

[thjones3]

Ok so right now my truck is dropped, transgo shift kit, mag hytec pan, and I got a JMB intake with catch can. I am picking up a stage 2 ecu that i will need to get re flashed, and a set of used catless mids with sims as soon as Craig gets them off his truck. I am planning to go with the NX dual fogger set up down the road. Will I need to get the ecu flashed everytime I add a new mod? If so I will just add the performance mods now, and work on exterior later. Also are there parameters for nitrous in the flash, because I do not want to lose power under normal driving, or can I just run the normal stage 2 and add nitrous. The only thing I am woried about is that if the stage 2 advances timing? Thanks.

From what I understand, the stage 2 does advance the timing. Not good for nitrous. You really need a flash for "normal driving" and a different "nitrous" flash. I think many people lose the stage 2 and go with either the SCT or the VEC3 for this reason.

 

[riley6]

I am thinking of getting American Racing headers/cats, CAI, tune (probably Flash), and 170 stat to start ($2-3K). Any other/better suggestions? Would head/cam work be useless without headers? I'm wondering which has the better hp to cost ratio? I might consider the laughing gas (NOS) also, although I've never tried it.

 

[Tooloe]

I am thinking of getting American Racing headers/cats, CAI, tune (probably Flash), and 170 stat to start ($2-3K). Any other/better suggestions? Would head/cam work be useless without headers? I'm wondering which has the better hp to cost ratio? I might consider the laughing gas (NOS) also, although I've never tried it.

From my understanding a Good Head and Cam Set up Can Give you a good Amount of HP but it's hard Finding a Cheap way of doing it.. i think striker heads are 2500 bucks and the Comp Coupe cam is like 300 bucks.....SO i mean it's just how much money you want to spend.. me on the other hand i went with a good 3 angle valve Job a nice small cam and i should have good results with it.. one thing you have to rember is More Air in and more air out the better the motor will run...but i think for the money you can't go wrong with Headers,CAI, a DYNO Tune and maybe a little bit of juice and you will be happy!:rock:

 

[rottenronnie]

From my understanding a Good Head and Cam Set up Can Give you a good Amount of HP but it's hard Finding a Cheap way of doing it.. i think striker heads are 2500 bucks and the Comp Coupe cam is like 300 bucks.....SO i mean it's just how much money you want to spend.. me on the other hand i went with a good 3 angle valve Job a nice small cam and i should have good results with it.. one thing you have to rember is More Air in and more air out the better the motor will run...but i think for the money you can't go wrong with Headers,CAI, a DYNO Tune and maybe a little bit of juice and you will be happy!:rock:

Strikers are $6995.00
A billet cam to go with it: $800.00+

 

[rottenronnie]

I am thinking of getting American Racing headers/cats, CAI, tune (probably Flash), and 170 stat to start ($2-3K). Any other/better suggestions? Would head/cam work be useless without headers? I'm wondering which has the better hp to cost ratio? I might consider the laughing gas (NOS) also, although I've never tried it.

Judging by comments from others on the forum and looking at the Torque vs. Horsepower trace on my own truck from the dyno pulls and the performance boost I got with the Strikers and Cam swap, I still don't see much value in headers on these trucks. There just doesn't seem to be a problem in that area.

 

[breederofkoi]

yes and no, there is a guage for the chevy tuned port that I think will work , but its not recommended to leave it there, basically because it under pressure and if a leak occured then it could be a huge fire hazard

as far as thread pich, not sure, the best thing to do is tap into the fuel line, and run an electric fuel guage.

Yes, you can put a pressure gauge there.. thread is either a -6 or -8 37 degree JIC flare (I'm thinkin it's a -6). You just need a valve core tool to pull the schrader valve out.

 

[ViperPowa]

Okay I'm gonna have to skip tryin to hit mid 13's stock and go straight to modding. This Labor Day Drags is gonna be a big day. I'll be going up against a Silverado SS with a 414ci stoker, trick flow heads, bolts on's and a "small 300 shot". I don't think he's gonna spray the whole shot since his TC is givin him some issues. Should be a good race motor for motor w/small shot with the mods I'm planning. We are also having a bolt on Caddy CTS-V, modded L, and bolt on 05 Mustang GT planning on going with us, and the SS owner is gonna talk to his friend about doing an article in the local mag "SS vs. SRT".

Okay since I don't want to get embarassed lol I'm going straight to modding. Gonna need some advice on a few things. I plan on running drop in filter, T-stat, headers with catless mids, borla exhaust, DC performance flash or SCT, Drag radials, and I already did caltracs. Simply just decent bolt-ons mods. So I need some advice since I can't decide on a few things.

Headers:
Belangers or Bassani or Mopar long tubes. Basically looking for the best long tubes out there. (Had my eye on them Belangers for a while)

Tune:
DC performance flash or SCT (theres a shop about 'round 2 hrs away that has a good dyno that I can go to get tuned, they usually work on Honda's but they do have some good tunning experience)

Traction:
I need to find somewhere that sells the Eagle Alloys 058 series, I talked to John about getting the 390 M/H DR's but still need rims to go with them. The local performance shop does not want to deal with EA anymore. Should be ordering the DR's today if not tomorrow, really need to find rims, maybe if someone already has a pretty new M/H DR's sittin on 058's for sale I'd look into that too.

So yeah kind of a big favor to ask, but figure best place to ask is here where all the guru's are gatherd

 

[FATJACK]

Do the SCT, Drag Radials and a 150 shot of nitrous and you should be able to hold your own.

 

[ViperPowa]

Do the SCT, Drag Radials and a 150 shot of nitrous and you should be able to hold your own.

Hehe that would definitly be easier, but I'm still a bit skiddish bout running nitrous in my rig, not really too nitrous savy and honestly ain't gonna practice on my SRT lol. Gonna spray the Celica though, don't give a rats ass if I blow the witto 20R. I'm not going to go to win it all, just so I don't get slaughtered , motor for motor I think with bolt on's I might have it in the bag, if he blows his nitrous it's gonna be game over for me. the Stang I know has BBk headers(short tubes) exhaust, and CAI. The CTS-V has exhaust. So with street tires I don't think they are gonna hook, I've heard the L is "pretty souped up", but just looking to run decent times and have some fun racing friends. What headers would you suggest? Wish I jumped on the headers/w catless mids group buy .....:banghead: SCT definitly has more to offer than the stage 2 flash right?

 

[riley6]

What is a reasonable price on a nitrous system installed? Guy quoted me $1500-1600 complete, including acessories like window switch, WOT set etc for 100-150 hp. PM me if necessary.