PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I sell the mesh kit, not cheap either though:

http://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_114_108&products_id=284

Dang! didnt know you sold the bottom one bro, sorry bout that

 

[eddie102870]

who makes a set of wire looms for msd wires

 

[thjones3]

Thank you gentlemen!

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

who makes a set of wire looms for msd wires

I know big ol buddy after panama I am going to a cnc operator and have him make us some billet wire separators, and in conjunction with Justin also some billet fuel rails sir,

I have a ton of dang separators that jsut dont meet the qualifications I want to see on our trucks, I tried bo, really did, but just dont have the equipment to do it correctly

 

[eddie102870]

I know big ol buddy after panama I am going to a cnc operator and have him make us some billet wire separators, and in conjunction with Justin also some billet fuel rails sir,

I have a ton of dang separators that jsut dont meet the qualifications I want to see on our trucks, I tried bo, really did, but just dont have the equipment to do it correctly

they would have to be better than the zip ties i got on now.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

they would have to be better than the zip ties i got on now.

then you will have two sets in the mail in the morning sir

 

[eddie102870]

then you will have two sets in the mail in the morning sir

how much i owe you for dem? i bought dawns door sills today from dragon, also got her tag...ouch had to pay sales tax

 

[Begood]

who makes a set of wire looms for msd wires

Moroso.

Bill.

 

[eddie102870]

Moroso.

Bill.

u gots a part number married man(john boy and billy)

 

[Begood]

u gots a part number married man(john boy and billy)

No I don't, I just walked into a local auto parts store that sells hi-performance parts and they had them in stock. They come in red, yellow, or blue.

Bill.

 

[russell crowe]

sos please sir can you help me

hi there mate my name is john i have an o5 srt10 dodge ram q/c auto
and have just had my mopar magnaflow headers and exhaust fitted. i live in auckland new zealand and have had a performance shop fit and modify to fit right hand drive . it has been a week now since i have had the truck home with all work done and today i have had problems with my truck.the problem is when i accelerate its like a plug has come of now and then also when i change down to second gear its not dropping down when it should and that is nearly instant .it is sluggish and isnt responding as it has and should hope you can help cheers thanks i am not very mechanically minded so if i havnt explained enoughplease advise this happens now and then not all the time may be computer problem not 2 sure

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

try this first for the tranny
1.Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
2.Remove air cleaner if necessary.
3.Disconnect cable end (3)(Throttle Valve Cable at Throttle Linkage) from attachment stud on throttle lever (1). Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull cable off.
4.Verify that transmission throttle lever is in fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position.
5.Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position. This will unlock the cable and allow for readjustment.
6.Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B) to remove any slack in the cable. Pulling too tight will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to move out of its idle position, which will result in an incorrect T.V. cable
7.Adjustment. Slide the sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter (1mm).
8.While holding the T.V. cable in the set position push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position. This will lock the present T.V. cable adjustment.
NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the angle at which the cable housing enters the spring housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and create an incorrect adjustment.

9.Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle bellcrank lever (C).
10.Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously.

Attachment 18380

per moparconnection





then check all the plug wires and make sure they have a good seat,

let us know

 

[russell crowe]

mate if this helps i disconnected the battery for 20 mins then turned om now temp gauge is on the red fan is working but only since battery was disconnected and check gauge signal on jeepers wat the //..//.,,,

 

[ViperPowa]

Okay so is the M/H drag radials with Eagle Alloy rims not good for a bolt-on's quad cab? Are they too short that the gearing ratio get's too low (numerically higher) that they end up killing the times on the top end ? Seen a coulple QC owners get rid of thier M/H&EA combo cause they weren't happy, did not get a real answer on what the tires were doing on the top end of the 1/4mile though.

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

Okay so is the M/H drag radials with Eagle Alloy rims not good for a bolt-on's quad cab? Are they too short that the gearing ratio get's too low (numerically higher) that they end up killing the times on the top end ? Seen a coulple QC owners get rid of thier M/H&EA combo cause they weren't happy, did not get a real answer on what the tires were doing on the top end of the 1/4mile though.

The RC's are gonna trap a higher MPH than the QC with similar mods. For me I am around 5600 at the line @ 102-103 with just a flash and M&H DR. When I was racing an RC(SRT-IZ truck) I won by a fender but he was coming up on me fast. He trapped 105 to my 103.

So in my opinion with the normal bolt on mods the DR should not hurt you. That has been my expierence with the truck. I have not been to a track with good air since installing the headers and cat delete. But I would think I would have to put it in tow haul mode to avoid shifting into fourth. If it shifts into fourth before the line that would kill your time. Right now it will shift shortly after the line if I don't put it in tow/haul mode at my home track with bad air.

 

[ViperPowa]

The RC's are gonna trap a higher MPH than the QC with similar mods. For me I am around 5600 at the line @ 102-103 with just a flash and M&H DR. When I was racing an RC(SRT-IZ truck) I won by a fender but he was coming up on me fast. He trapped 105 to my 103.

So in my opinion with the normal bolt on mods the DR should not hurt you. That has been my expierence with the truck. I have not been to a track with good air since installing the headers and cat delete. But I would think I would have to put it in tow haul mode to avoid shifting into fourth. If it shifts into fourth before the line that would kill your time. Right now it will shift shortly after the line if I don't put it in tow/haul mode at my home track with bad air.

Thanks man, that's exactly what I was wondering, if the DR's will be too short and make you have that extra shift right before the traps.

I thought you have to put it into tow/haul to avoid shifting into 4th before the end of the 1/4mile? So your running it in regular drive and your still managing to get through the traps without having to go into 4th even with the DR's? That's good. Tow/haul basically lengthens the gears right? So in essence even if you have the shorter tires, you should still have enough gear left to make it to the traps in the top of 3rd in tow/haul even if modded?

You think with a drop in filter, SCT, Belanger long tubes, catless mids, mopar exhaust, and caltracs I'll still be able to make it to the end of the 1/4 without having to hit 4th with the M/H DR's?

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

Thanks man, that's exactly what I was wondering, if the DR's will be too short and make you have that extra shift right before the traps.

I thought you have to put it into tow/haul to avoid shifting into 4th before the end of the 1/4mile? So your running it in regular drive and it's shifting into 4th right after the traps? Tow/haul basically lengthens the gears right? So in essence even if you have the shorter tires, you should still have enough gear left to make it to the traps in the top of 3rd in tow/haul?

You think with a drop in filter, SCT, Belanger long tubes, catless mids and mopar exhaust I'll still be able to make it to the end of the 1/4 without having to hit 4th with the M/H DR's?

I have the SCT flash and I think that contributes to it not shifting into fourth. I believe the factory PCM shifts into fourth sooner. But don't quote me on that. I tried running in tow haul mode just to see if it would shift before the line and it did not. Plus I don't notice a difference in time either way. Just one less thing to remember at the line by leaving it in drive.

Yes if you put it in tow/haul mode it will basically lengthen the gear. But our motors seem to fall off around 5600 rpm. I think you can run around 120 mph @ 6k rpm with stock tires. If you were crossing the line close to redline then yes you are losing time and speed. But if you let it shift into fourth before the line that will kill your time more. When mine shifts it feels like it hits a brick wall for a second.

With those planned mods it will be at the limits in my opinion. It will be close. Very close. Another side note when I back out of the gas the speedo reads around 110-115 mph. So just guessing it reads a little over 10 mph than actual speed. I don't know the math to figure it out but it should be close. Plus when I back off it is well past the line to make sure I get a full out run.

Wish I could tell you for sure with those mods. If I lived by a track with good air I could tell you for sure. Being we have very similar mods.

Based off the timeslip section a 12.5 is about 111 mph. That would be a very good time with bolt on's in a QC.

Another option if it is too much gearing is go to a higher gear ratio (4.11 or so). If the truck is gonna see a decent amount of track time it is a good idea to get the spyder gears cryoed, as well as get a line lock. Can't remember if you got one or not. Since the cover is off anyway might as well change gears while you are there.

If you don't change the gears then you have to change to a different racing tire. And that would require getting smaller rear brakes or shaving the calipers. It would just be easier to get Stinker rear built to your needs. But that would cost more coin than just changing gears. The plus side is you tire combination options are greater. We just don't have any real options for tires with a stock setup.

If it was me I would give her hell with the M&H DR and see what happens. I believe it is close enough to gamble with. Hopefully someone else can chime in that knows for sure.

 

[ViperPowa]

RGR, thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. Aloha

Kauka

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Bringing thread back online:rock:

 

[pokeytemplar]

Stinker,

Do you know if they make cometic Phuzion gaskets for the Viper? I guess the real question is at what levels of power do the MLS gaskets start to fail?