Throttle sluggish when hot

[azpyroguy]

Hmm... might be a good easy fix... mine runs awesome on the way to work in in morning, and generally OK on the way on.. but once the motor is heat soaked... its just downhill from there...

 

[rottenronnie]

So is this mod "required" with a Stage 2 flash?
These engines are sensitive to octane and really fall off in power with so-so fuel.
I am hoping there is a big difference in this area with the Strikers.

 

[HOT RAM]

So is this mod "required" with a Stage 2 flash?
These engines are sensitive to octane and really fall off in power with so-so fuel.
I am hoping there is a big difference in this area with the Strikers.

Since it also works on the Magnum engines (318-360 or 5.2-5.9) , it SHOULD work on any Viper engine...........NA,supercharged,flashed or stock.

Very simple install .........just cut one of the wires from the IAT and splice in a resistor (I used a 4.7,but 5 to 7 should also work).The IAT is located just in front of the throttle body in the intake tube on the right as you look at the engine.


Going out to see how much it helps shortly.

 

[rottenronnie]

Since it also works on the Magnum engines (318-360 or 5.2-5.9) , it SHOULD work on any Viper engine...........NA,supercharged,flashed or stock.

Very simple install .........just cut one of the wires from the IAT and splice in a resistor (I used a 4.7,but 5 to 7 should also work).The IAT is located just in front of the throttle body in the intake tube on the right as you look at the engine.


Going out to see how much it helps shortly.

I guess I should have asked: Has the timing reference on the Stage 2 flash already been modified to compensate for hotter intake temperatures?
(Making this resistor mod unnecessary).

 

[HOT RAM]

I guess I should have asked: Has the timing reference on the Stage 2 flash already been modified to compensate for hotter intake temperatures?
(Making this resistor mod unnecessary).

Hmmmmmmmmmm. Not sure about that.I know that they do have more agressive timing profiles.I had to have some pulled out due to pinging.

I have an X-Metal Stage 2 on mine and it DID seem to help my truck today.


We need more input from people far more intelligent than I am regarding these questions.

 

[rottenronnie]

I guess I should have asked: Has the timing reference on the Stage 2 flash already been modified to compensate for hotter intake temperatures?
(Making this resistor mod unnecessary).

Hi,

WITH the stage 2 flash the resistor mod is NOT recommended and will compromise the program. You can however move the sensor to an area that is in the outside air.

Ron

 

[SrtBrad]

Hi,

WITH the stage 2 flash the resistor mod is NOT recommended and will compromise the program. You can however move the sensor to an area that is in the outside air.

Ron

Lets just take this on another level. Lets say you have a stage2 and are going to the track. I would think this resistor mod might work out good if you use a high octane race gas?

 

[nycstev]

Just soldered on crimp connectors to minimize hassle of soldering in truck. Just cut , insert and crimp to the wire thats NOT BLUE!

 

[nycstev]

You have to insert in the wire which is NOT BLUE

 

[nycstev]

has anyone else done this Mod?:dontknow:

 

[HOT RAM]

BOTH my wires were blue.One was blue with green stripe.I put it in that one.

I have a Stage 2 flash and it seemed to work fine for me. :dontknow:

 

[fasstdak]

Nice pics...personally, I just solder the resistor inline and put some shrink tube over it (don't like crimp connectors - i'm spoiled...I know).

If you have a scanner, you can check the ambient temp before and after the install...it'll be right about 18-20 degrees cooler. Actual resistance will vary depending on ambient temp.

I've put some documents regarding the IAT Adjuster, Dyno results on a basically stock 5.9L, and the schematic for the actual adjustable box. Dyno Run #14 was with the box ON and set at 70 degrees...#13 was using the factory IAT (120 degrees). A/F leaned out a little bit but stabilized on the upper RPM band.

http://www.dodgetrucks.org/bernd/Mods/IAT

The difference in between the 2% and 5% is the variance of the actual resistance value. 2% is just more accurate (5% will work just fine..again, i'm just spoiled).

 

[nycstev]

BOTH my wires were blue.One was blue with green stripe.I put it in that one.

I have a Stage 2 flash and it seemed to work fine for me. :dontknow:

Sean Roe said put it in the one thats not blue..:dontknow: :dontknow:

 

[nycstev]

Nice pics...personally, I just solder the resistor inline and put some shrink tube over it (don't like crimp connectors - i'm spoiled...I know).

If you have a scanner, you can check the ambient temp before and after the install...it'll be right about 18-20 degrees cooler. Actual resistance will vary depending on ambient temp.

I've put some documents regarding the IAT Adjuster, Dyno results on a basically stock 5.9L, and the schematic for the actual adjustable box. Dyno Run #14 was with the box ON and set at 70 degrees...#13 was using the factory IAT (120 degrees). A/F leaned out a little bit but stabilized on the upper RPM band.

http://www.dodgetrucks.org/bernd/Mo...eant.. nether did the idio\ts at Radio Shack!

 

[Roe Racing]

The correct wire is the dark blue with a light green stripe, not the solid blue one.
Sorry I wasn't clear.

 

[nycstev]

!!!!!!!!!

 

[nycstev]

I soldered the crimp connectors to the resistor out side of the truck. Then just cut and insert and crimp to existing wire. It was easier than soldering under the hood

 

[Black1]

Nice pics...personally, I just solder the resistor inline and put some shrink tube over it (don't like crimp connectors - i'm spoiled...I know).

If you have a scanner, you can check the ambient temp before and after the install...it'll be right about 18-20 degrees cooler. Actual resistance will vary depending on ambient temp.

I've put some documents regarding the IAT Adjuster, Dyno results on a basically stock 5.9L, and the schematic for the actual adjustable box. Dyno Run #14 was with the box ON and set at 70 degrees...#13 was using the factory IAT (120 degrees). A/F leaned out a little bit but stabilized on the upper RPM band.

http://www.dodgetrucks.org/bernd/Mods/IAT

The difference in between the 2% and 5% is the variance of the actual resistance value. 2% is just more accurate (5% will work just fine..again, i'm just spoiled).

Very good info... and Welcome to the site, Bernd! :rock: It's great to have new, knowledgeable people here.

 

[VIPER HP]

So do I understand this correctly. I have an RC 05 with Paxton and had BG flash the PCM, lower thermostat and fan. Heat soak is still a noticeable issue. So the thought is that the resistor would also help my Paxton flashed PCM by not pulling out so much advance? Or is another way of saying it is that the heat soak problem is more from timing being pulled out than just hot intake air??
What does BG say about this?

 

[nycstev]

So do I understand this correctly. I have an RC 05 with Paxton and had BG flash the PCM, lower thermostat and fan. Heat soak is still a noticeable issue. So the thought is that the resistor would also help my Paxton flashed PCM by not pulling out so much advance? Or is another way of saying it is that the heat soak problem is more from timing being pulled out than just hot intake air??
What does BG say about this?

The heat soak isn't a result of the timing or air intake issues. It comes from the metal parts of the engine heating up after it has been running for a while. This in turn warms the incoming air.. The resistor will fool the IAT sensor making it think its cooler and not pull so much timing out.

S