washed pistons/bad rings?

sinus19

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What do you guys think? 1 & 3 have some wash. Bad rings? Can i push them some more? DotThey NEED replaced?
 

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Well ive been told that when the rings start to go out you get that "washed" look on the top and bottom of the piston? Yes they are stock heads which are being rebuild (to stock specs)
 
Well ive been told that when the rings start to go out you get that "washed" look on the top and bottom of the piston? Yes they are stock heads which are being rebuild (to stock specs)

The burn pattern looks quite normal to me; assuming o.e.m. injectors, cam and intake manifold.

The rings need to seal combustion pressure and control the film of oil on the cylinders.

A leak-down test is a good way to tell if the rings are sealing properly (or not), as looking at a piston crown wont tell you much about the condition of the rings in this case.

Why did you pull the heads?
Is your engine a high-miler?

It looks like you have already cleaned the black crap left over by the black o.e.m. gaskets unless your engine has been apart before.

While your heads are off and disassembled, you may want to (strongly) :) consider milling them a touch, for more compression (which these engines REALLY like). Don't forget to cut the intake face of the head the same amount.

Have fun.
 
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he has about 80k on the engine, bone stock, Ronnie

he has another thread started & been chasein a prob for a bit. he found a broken push tube & a bit chewed rocker arm & pedestal

comp. was about 185 & a leak down test was at 12%
 
he has about 80k on the engine, bone stock, Ronnie

he has another thread started & been chasein a prob for a bit. he found a broken push tube & a bit chewed rocker arm & pedestal

comp. was about 185 & a leak down test was at 12%

Diagnosing stuff over the internet is a crap shoot.

If there are 80,000 miles on the engine maybe DO NOT have the heads cut as the leak down values will only get worse.

185 seems quite "healthy" for a stocker. Hmmmmmm

Pull it apart and fix it all is likely the best option...

Thanks ZCx !
 
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Diagnosing stuff over the internet is a crap shoot.

If there are 80,000 miles on the engine maybe DO NOT have the heads cut as the leak down values will only get worse.

185 seems quite "healthy" for a stocker. Hmmmmmm

Pull it apart and fix it all is likely the best option...

Thanks ZCx !


Thanks ZCx, i was gonna give him the link to my other thread ha. Yes i have already cleaned the deck. Im gonna go with my gut feeling and leave the bottom end alone (since the numbers came out ok)
Thanks Guys! I'll keep ya posted
 
did ya figure out what caused the push tube prob???
 
did ya figure out what caused the push tube prob???

No not yet BUT i did find out that the rods were 7.575 long and not the stock 7.600! Im gonna take out the lifter tomorrow and check it out as well.
 
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No not yet BUT i did find out that the rods were 7.575 long and not the stock 7.600! Im gonna take out the lifter tomorrow and check it out as well.

The .025" the rods seem short will be taken up by the lifter.
 
I have an aluminum plate that I made with tapped ports above each cylinder that will allow you to run a leak down test with the heads off. It bolts onto the engine in place of the head and uses one of your old head gaskets. If you are interested and would be willing to pay the shipping both ways you can use it.
 
cool tool:rock::rock::rock:

cool offer:rock::rock::rock:

how thick is the plate????
 
I have an aluminum plate that I made with tapped ports above each cylinder that will allow you to run a leak down test with the heads off. It bolts onto the engine in place of the head and uses one of your old head gaskets. If you are interested and would be willing to pay the shipping both ways you can use it.

Shoot.. my compressor is not working so i cant hook up the leak down gauge and the gasket are kinda trashed. I'll see if i can get it going monday and ill let you know. Thank you for the offer!
 
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Hey seethrough,

Go ahead and send me that plate, i'll barrow my neighbors compressor haha. I'll PM you my details
 
you know what, I take that back. I've decided to overhaul it with new rings and, bearings. I don't want to take any chances and rather have that peace of mind...:)
Is there anything down there that i should look for and replace? such as the lower pulley bolt coming off etc.
 
you know what, I take that back. I've decided to overhaul it with new rings and, bearings. I don't want to take any chances and rather have that peace of mind...:)
Is there anything down there that i should look for and replace? such as the lower pulley bolt coming off etc.

If you're replacing bearing that bolt needs to come off anyways. There are better bearings than stock. Better oiling to journals. You should check all lifters, buy a custom cam and do springs while In there. Forged pistons and rods if you can swing it.
 
Start with H- beam rods & forged pistons. I did

I wish i could :(... I just got back from an expensive vacation and I'm kinda on a budget or else i would have gone all forged with a nasty cam :rock:... So for now i want to rebuild/replace only what needs to be done. Bearing wise, im getting some from Roe Racing along with the rest of the parts. What are the odds on these blocks of having to re-bore due to wear? pretty common?
 
The machine work is what gets ya. If the cylinder needs to be enlarged no sense putting stock (junk) pistons back in. Believe me I diddent have the $$$ either.
 
I wish i could :(... I just got back from an expensive vacation and I'm kinda on a budget or else i would have gone all forged with a nasty cam :rock:... So for now i want to rebuild/replace only what needs to be done. Bearing wise, im getting some from Roe Racing along with the rest of the parts. What are the odds on these blocks of having to re-bore due to wear? pretty common?

I personally would wait until I had the money to do it right. No point in pulling it apart twice.
 

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