Where to find new kicker shock?

[Jumpingjoe628]

I’m looking to replace the rear axle damper shock (5th shock) with either OEM or an equivalent performing unit. I’ve searched here several times, on google, eBay and all the local auto parts stores online with no luck. The OEM part # is 05290831AA. The one in my truck had been leaking so I think it’s time to replace. I’d be happy with a stock setup as I’ve already scoped out what’s available from our vendors and really don’t think I’ll have a need to go that far unless the cost of a stock unit is so high that I might as well spring for it.

I don’t plan on taking it to the track but I do like monitoring performance with my G-timer after a repair or upgrade. It’s also not my DD and usually only driven during fair weather.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[IronAffliction]

content://com.sec.android.app.sbrowser/readinglist/0819150431.mhtml

 

[IronAffliction]

https://shop.jtsvp.com

 

[Jumpingjoe628]

So it looks like my options are limited with the OEM stuff as I still haven’t found anything. I’ve read about 20 diff threads on susp and searched for the big named vendors products and how they’ve performed vs cost. I like the concept of Caltracs and V1R long bars but does that mean I can completely remove the kicker shock? I like the Caltracs more for the fact that it prevents spring wrap, but I’m not racing it So I don’t think I need to go long bars.
I’ve already got wrapped up in a build a few years back with my 78 vette and going 4-link conversion...did all that race stuff before and just don’t wanna take it there with this truck. I love it the way it is. But you know how it is, you learn more and more on the way it was designed and figure out ways to make it better, it’s an addiction.

With that being said I think I’ll go Caltracs and upgrade all the bushings with and energy suspension kit. And since I believe this truck is lowered I have to make certain first and also check on the sway bar and diff angles. See, I’m already in too deep!

 

[Ponchopwr70]

I ended up going with caltracs and put the kicker back in and have zero wheel hop. The new bushing is a pain to install but other than that it was simple. If your in need of a shock I bet Ridetech can make a replacement to fit, they make monotube shocks which is what we would need. Jtsvp makes a nice replacement also. I recommend caltracs, I also have a set on my daily driver hemi ram.

 

[Jumpingjoe628]

I’d really like to replace the shock with a basic unit as well because I’d hate to install the Caltracs and still have a leaky shock. I just can’t justify paying for an upgraded shock after that if the Caltracs will basically eliminate the need to even have it.
Based on what I’ve read though, no one has really mentioned completely removing the kicker when they installed a stabilization method. I wonder if there’s still a rearward movement of the axle and diff even with Caltracs to warrant keeping a shock in place though? The before and after video I saw of a long bar installment showed the diff rotating up and back without stabilization and then barely any movement with the bars installed. Can’t remember if the kicker shock was still in place after the bars were installed, may have to watch it again.

 

[Psycho1122]

The stock slapper bar assembly is VERY effective. It takes over 5,000 lb. per square inch of force to bend the slapper 1" !! The slop you feel is in the leaf spring eye bushings. I replaced the leaf eyes and rear shackle bushings with polyurethane bushings along with the stock kicker shock with a QA-1 adjustable from JMB.

SRT-10 RC Traction Package - Stage 2 Upgrade - JMB Performance and Powdercoat, LLC

With the stock springs being so stiff from the factory, I feel the stage 1 kit is not needed. For overall ride and performance handling on all surface types (suspension travel and compliance), the poly bushings along the new kicker make for consistent, effective handling and traction. Especially with fresh Pirelli gumballs. I utilize the extra large snubber bushings for drag nite. The pre-load is welcome on the launch but not on the street when you need travel.

With the adjuster set to 12 clicks, NO hop, no slop and it handles much better. No "rear steer" from the axle as the soft OEM leaf eye bushings induce. And you keep the unique and effective stock set up.

Good Luck! Cheers!

 

[Jumpingjoe628]

This is the info I was hoping for, thanks Psycho1122. I like the factory set up but after reading about what all the more advanced drag racers are talking about I initially wanted to prevent any differential angle changes. But now after thinking about it, I guess that having a little cushion (stiffer than stock though) wouldn't be a bad thing when it comes to longevity. I'd assume that with a more solid mount that even though there'd be minimal to no movement there'd also be more of a jolt/stress factor to the rest of the parts.

I saw the JMB stuff and liked it too, thanks for the info!

 

[Ponchopwr70]

Yea my truck with 18k miles on it with a few bolt-ons, would wheel hop with the stock suspension. Caltracs cures that completely. I did remove the hop shock and it didn’t seem to make a difference taking off but I noticed when I was real heavy on the brakes without it the rear felt like it was going to hop so I put mine back in. I have since added adjustable shocks and have my suspension working pretty good.

 

[Ponchopwr70]

Be careful with those qa1s mounted horizontal, they are twin tube and are supposed to be vertical, I’ve seen one broken on the Facebook page being used as a kicker.

 

[beastmode1]

Try X2 builders or Cleveland Pick apart Junk yard.

 

[Psycho1122]

Be careful with those qa1s mounted horizontal, they are twin tube and are supposed to be vertical, I’ve seen one broken on the Facebook page being used as a kicker.

There is no functional issue with utilizing the QA-1 as a horizontal shock. The ONE example you stated most likely had a secondary issue that induced a failure. Like improper installation or another suspension issue.

Unless you a purely drag racing the truck and do not take street / track handling into consideration, these trucks do not need Cal-Trac's.

Cheers