Beating the sh*t out of the rear rotors for hours…

[2005ViperRam]

I am now in the process of flipping my leaf spring from the bottom to the top (reverse lowering) on my 2005 QC.
Since I have to basically disconnect everything I thought I’d do the rotors also. What a pain! I spent 5 hours beating
the rotor hat (the area between the 5 wheel studs) with a 4 lb hammer and it didn’t even budge. The rotor was rusted on.

Getting to the point of getting ticked off and thinking of just having a mechanic do it, I gave it one last shot and gave up
my man card and started Googling the web for answers. Believe it or not, Google brought me right back to this website. Reading
a post from 2011 got me where I think I need to be (I will try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes).

Basically what the post says is to get the following items:
As per this video:

1 - 1/2 in x 3 inch Grade 8 bolt
4 - large flat washers
4 - 1/2 inch Grade 8 nuts
1 - open end wrench
1 - socket
Supposedly within 10 minutes it should come right off, from what people are saying in the comment section of the video.

Here is the post that refers the above info, which is from this website:

Removing Stuck Rear Brake Rotors

Since so many have answered my questions when I was in need of advice or assistance I feel the need to give back a little. I am not sure if this is the right spot for this so I am sure the Admins will move this thread if necessary. I spent about 8 hours working on this today because I did not...

www.vtcoa.com

The add-on I wanted to say is:
- make sure you put some lug nuts on because the rotor might fly off. This should save you from possibly getting killed.
- being a Dana 60, I assume both tires need to be off the ground to be able to rotate the rotors (I think).
- the nut that is against the rotor is manly used so you don’t mess up the threads of the bolt, so you can get it off.
- make sure you follow the directions about loosening the drum brake which rides insides the rotor.

I’ll give you an update how it worked…

 

[Wifey]

You found A buried treasure!!! Great info from the ghosts of the past!

Let us know how it works out!

 

[VIPR PWR]

I am now in the process of flipping my leaf spring from the bottom to the top (reverse lowering) on my 2005 QC.
Since I have to basically disconnect everything I thought I’d do the rotors also. What a pain! I spent 5 hours beating
the rotor hat (the area between the 5 wheel studs) with a 4 lb hammer and it didn’t even budge. The rotor was rusted on.

Getting to the point of getting ticked off and thinking of just having a mechanic do it, I gave it one last shot and gave up
my man card and started Googling the web for answers. Believe it or not, Google brought me right back to this website. Reading
a post from 2011 got me where I think I need to be (I will try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes).

Basically what the post says is to get the following items:
As per this video:

1 - 1/2 in x 3 inch Grade 8 bolt
4 - large flat washers
4 - 1/2 inch Grade 8 nuts
1 - open end wrench
1 - socket
Supposedly within 10 minutes it should come right off, from what people are saying in the comment section of the video.

Here is the post that refers the above info, which is from this website:

Removing Stuck Rear Brake Rotors

Since so many have answered my questions when I was in need of advice or assistance I feel the need to give back a little. I am not sure if this is the right spot for this so I am sure the Admins will move this thread if necessary. I spent about 8 hours working on this today because I did not...

www.vtcoa.com

The add-on I wanted to say is:
- make sure you put some lug nuts on because the rotor might fly off. This should save you from possibly getting killed.
- being a Dana 60, I assume both tires need to be off the ground to be able to rotate the rotors (I think).
- the nut that is against the rotor is manly used so you don’t mess up the threads of the bolt, so you can get it off.
- make sure you follow the directions about loosening the drum brake which rides insides the rotor.

I’ll give you an update how it worked…

Careful you don’t put your eye out lol !
Why are you removing the rotors to flip the springs ? My guess is you intend on replacing the rotors !

 

[VIPR PWR]

I am now in the process of flipping my leaf spring from the bottom to the top (reverse lowering) on my 2005 QC.
Since I have to basically disconnect everything I thought I’d do the rotors also. What a pain! I spent 5 hours beating
the rotor hat (the area between the 5 wheel studs) with a 4 lb hammer and it didn’t even budge. The rotor was rusted on.

Getting to the point of getting ticked off and thinking of just having a mechanic do it, I gave it one last shot and gave up
my man card and started Googling the web for answers. Believe it or not, Google brought me right back to this website. Reading
a post from 2011 got me where I think I need to be (I will try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes).

Basically what the post says is to get the following items:
As per this video:

1 - 1/2 in x 3 inch Grade 8 bolt
4 - large flat washers
4 - 1/2 inch Grade 8 nuts
1 - open end wrench
1 - socket
Supposedly within 10 minutes it should come right off, from what people are saying in the comment section of the video.

Here is the post that refers the above info, which is from this website:

Removing Stuck Rear Brake Rotors

Since so many have answered my questions when I was in need of advice or assistance I feel the need to give back a little. I am not sure if this is the right spot for this so I am sure the Admins will move this thread if necessary. I spent about 8 hours working on this today because I did not...

www.vtcoa.com

The add-on I wanted to say is:
- make sure you put some lug nuts on because the rotor might fly off. This should save you from possibly getting killed.
- being a Dana 60, I assume both tires need to be off the ground to be able to rotate the rotors (I think).
- the nut that is against the rotor is manly used so you don’t mess up the threads of the bolt, so you can get it off.
- make sure you follow the directions about loosening the drum brake which rides insides the rotor.

I’ll give you an update how it worked…

Did you soak it wit nut buster for a day or 2 first ?

 

[VIPR PWR]

Did you pound on the inside and then the outside of the rotor ? Back and forth back and forth little by little step by step .. like snapping an old wire clothes hanger in half lol ..

 

[VIPR PWR]

Ve heard if you hold your mouth right and add a little nut buster it should pop right off ? Hahaha

Did you try the old walk away and come back later trick ? Hahaha

 

[VIPR PWR]

I am now in the process of flipping my leaf spring from the bottom to the top (reverse lowering) on my 2005 QC.
Since I have to basically disconnect everything I thought I’d do the rotors also. What a pain! I spent 5 hours beating
the rotor hat (the area between the 5 wheel studs) with a 4 lb hammer and it didn’t even budge. The rotor was rusted on.

Getting to the point of getting ticked off and thinking of just having a mechanic do it, I gave it one last shot and gave up
my man card and started Googling the web for answers. Believe it or not, Google brought me right back to this website. Reading
a post from 2011 got me where I think I need to be (I will try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes).

Basically what the post says is to get the following items:
As per this video:

1 - 1/2 in x 3 inch Grade 8 bolt
4 - large flat washers
4 - 1/2 inch Grade 8 nuts
1 - open end wrench
1 - socket
Supposedly within 10 minutes it should come right off, from what people are saying in the comment section of the video.

Here is the post that refers the above info, which is from this website:

Removing Stuck Rear Brake Rotors

Since so many have answered my questions when I was in need of advice or assistance I feel the need to give back a little. I am not sure if this is the right spot for this so I am sure the Admins will move this thread if necessary. I spent about 8 hours working on this today because I did not...

www.vtcoa.com

The add-on I wanted to say is:
- make sure you put some lug nuts on because the rotor might fly off. This should save you from possibly getting killed.
- being a Dana 60, I assume both tires need to be off the ground to be able to rotate the rotors (I think).
- the nut that is against the rotor is manly used so you don’t mess up the threads of the bolt, so you can get it off.
- make sure you follow the directions about loosening the drum brake which rides insides the rotor.

I’ll give you an update how it worked…

Another trick to add to a long list of tricks.. Good post !

 

[2005ViperRam]

Replacing the rotors because they had scoring on them when I removed the tire to flip the spring. That, and that Rock Auto had them for $18 each. To grind them down O’reilly’s wanted $28. The brake pads are really cheap, like $8.
I really thought it would be as easy as the fronts were.

 

[VIPR PWR]

Replacing the rotors because they had scoring on them when I removed the tire to flip the spring. That, and that Rock Auto had them for $18 each. To grind them down O’reilly’s wanted $28. The brake pads are really cheap, like $8.
I really thought it would be as easy as the fronts were.

The rotors are 18$ each ? Slotted and or drilled ? Never seen a price that low on any rotors .. Pads at 8$ ? What make of pads ? Ceramic , stock type ? The posi centric I’ve used are over 100$ per set …I don’t get black brake dust hardly with mine like the factory filthy ones did .. and I don’t get the loud embarrassing squeal since I got rid of the factory pads ..

 

[2005ViperRam]

Orgasm time!
Wow, if I smoked I would light up and bask in the afterglow!
I feel like I just left P. Diddy Freak Party!

So here is the update on removing the rear rotor on my 2005 QC.
I went to Home Depot to purchase the 1/2 inch x 3 inch Grade 8 bolts. The bin where they should be didn’t have any in it. So I ended up going to Lowe’s. They had them, so I got everything from them, which was two Bolts, 4 Flat washers, 4 Nuts.

Got home to try the procedure and got everything installed only to find out that the threads on the bolt were not long enough. They only had 1 1/4 inch threads. It bottomed out and was useless. Getting ticked, I broke out the 4 lb hammer to beat the sh*t out of the rotor again and it didn’t even budge. This was even after spraying WD-40 maybe 10 times throughout a 24 hour period.

I decided to take a trip to Ace Hardware to find out if they had something that would work. I said “I really wished they would sell fully threaded bolts”. The guy said that they did, and brought me to special bolts area (which I never knew existed). Sure enough, they had some 1/2 inch x 3 inch fully threaded bolts.

Came home and was just hoping this would work. I jacked up the rear of the truck so the rear end was not touching the ground which allows the axle hubs to spin. I put the bolts on and used my impact wrench and within 5 minute the rotor made a loud “pop” sound. I rotated the hub 90 degrees, put the bolts on again, and tightened it up and sure enough another “pop”. Again another 90 degrees, and one last 90 degrees. The rotor just came right off!

I haven’t put the new rotor on yet, I need brake cleaner.

So far, lesson learned:
- Put lug couple lug nuts on just a couple threads so the rotor does go flying off.
- Go to Ace Hardware and get fully threaded 1/2 inch x 3 inch Grade 8 bolts.
- You will need to use a regular socket, not a deep well, on the top caliper mounting hole. There is not enough room due to the closeness of the leaf spring. The lower caliper mounting hole you can use a deep well socket since the leaf spring is not in the way.

Here is 3 pictures from Ace Hardware for the bolts that work perfectly:

 

[2005ViperRam]

The rotors are 18$ each ? Slotted and or drilled ? Never seen a price that low on any rotors .. Pads at 8$ ? What make of pads ? Ceramic , stock type ? The posi centric I’ve used are over 100$ per set …

I ended up buying the ceramic pad, and the regular rotors. For my black truck I broke down and got the expensive drilled and slotted rotors about 4 years ago.

One thing I can figure out is how someone would replace the rear drum brakes. I don’t see how you would ever go about replacing them since the hub is I. The way. Luckily the drum brakes are rarely ever used, so I’m not wanting to do them. If it was real easy, then I might have thought about doing it.

 

[VIPR PWR]

Orgasm time!
Wow, if I smoked I would light up and bask in the afterglow!
I feel like I just left P. Diddy Freak Party!

So here is the update on removing the rear rotor on my 2005 QC.
I went to Home Depot to purchase the 1/2 inch x 3 inch Grade 8 bolts. The bin where they should be didn’t have any in it. So I ended up going to Lowe’s. They had them, so I got everything from them, which was two Bolts, 4 Flat washers, 4 Nuts.

Got home to try the procedure and got everything installed only to find out that the threads on the bolt were not long enough. They only had 1 1/4 inch threads. It bottomed out and was useless. Getting ticked, I broke out the 4 lb hammer to beat the sh*t out of the rotor again and it didn’t even budge. This was even after spraying WD-40 maybe 10 times throughout a 24 hour period.

I decided to take a trip to Ace Hardware to find out if they had something that would work. I said “I really wished they would sell fully threaded bolts”. The guy said that they did, and brought me to special bolts area (which I never knew existed). Sure enough, they had some 1/2 inch x 3 inch fully threaded bolts.

Came home and was just hoping this would work. I jacked up the rear of the truck so the rear end was not touching the ground which allows the axle hubs to spin. I put the bolts on and used my impact wrench and within 5 minute the rotor made a loud “pop” sound. I rotated the hub 90 degrees, put the bolts on again, and tightened it up and sure enough another “pop”. Again another 90 degrees, and one last 90 degrees. The rotor just came right off!

I haven’t put the new rotor on yet, I need brake cleaner.

So far, lesson learned:
- Put lug couple lug nuts on just a couple threads so the rotor does go flying off.
- Go to Ace Hardware and get fully threaded 1/2 inch x 3 inch Grade 8 bolts.
- You will need to use a regular socket, not a deep well, on the top caliper mounting hole. There is not enough room due to the closeness of the leaf spring. The lower caliper mounting hole you can use a deep well socket since the leaf spring is not in the way.

Here is 3 pictures from Ace Hardware for the bolts that work perfectly:

Good job ,nice to see it works as expected.. when are you going to replace the wall damage from the flying rotor lol !
That’s another tool for the tool box for sure .
Now that your an expert come ver and see what you can do about the rear brake drums on my Dakota .. they were stuck lol ! I’m guessing the nuts and bolts won’t work on drum brakes .

 

[VIPR PWR]

I ended up buying the ceramic pad, and the regular rotors. For my black truck I broke down and got the expensive drilled and slotted rotors about 4 years ago.

One thing I can figure out is how someone would replace the rear drum brakes. I don’t see how you would ever go about replacing them since the hub is I. The way. Luckily the drum brakes are rarely ever used, so I’m not wanting to do them. If it was real easy, then I might have thought about doing it.

The only way I can think of for drum brakes frozen drum like your rotor is to make a makeshift puller like a steering wheel puller tool . I’ve done 1000’s of brake jobs in my life and some drums can be a royal pain in the rear . We had to loosen the brake pad adjustment a lot of times and then hammer and WD-40 always got the job done … with my Dakota , I didn’t really try very hard or loosen the shoes and didn’t have a BFH .. Neighbors probably would have complained to the POS HOA TURDS ABOUT ME WORKING ON MY VEHICLE IN MY OWN FREAKING DRIVEWAY .

 

[Wifey]

Orgasm time!
Wow, if I smoked I would light up and bask in the afterglow!
I feel like I just left P. Diddy Freak Party!

So here is the update on removing the rear rotor on my 2005 QC.
I went to Home Depot to purchase the 1/2 inch x 3 inch Grade 8 bolts. The bin where they should be didn’t have any in it. So I ended up going to Lowe’s. They had them, so I got everything from them, which was two Bolts, 4 Flat washers, 4 Nuts.

Got home to try the procedure and got everything installed only to find out that the threads on the bolt were not long enough. They only had 1 1/4 inch threads. It bottomed out and was useless. Getting ticked, I broke out the 4 lb hammer to beat the sh*t out of the rotor again and it didn’t even budge. This was even after spraying WD-40 maybe 10 times throughout a 24 hour period.

I decided to take a trip to Ace Hardware to find out if they had something that would work. I said “I really wished they would sell fully threaded bolts”. The guy said that they did, and brought me to special bolts area (which I never knew existed). Sure enough, they had some 1/2 inch x 3 inch fully threaded bolts.

Came home and was just hoping this would work. I jacked up the rear of the truck so the rear end was not touching the ground which allows the axle hubs to spin. I put the bolts on and used my impact wrench and within 5 minute the rotor made a loud “pop” sound. I rotated the hub 90 degrees, put the bolts on again, and tightened it up and sure enough another “pop”. Again another 90 degrees, and one last 90 degrees. The rotor just came right off!

I haven’t put the new rotor on yet, I need brake cleaner.

So far, lesson learned:
- Put lug couple lug nuts on just a couple threads so the rotor does go flying off.
- Go to Ace Hardware and get fully threaded 1/2 inch x 3 inch Grade 8 bolts.
- You will need to use a regular socket, not a deep well, on the top caliper mounting hole. There is not enough room due to the closeness of the leaf spring. The lower caliper mounting hole you can use a deep well socket since the leaf spring is not in the way.

Here is 3 pictures from Ace Hardware for the bolts that work perfectly:

I'm still LMAO!! Hilarious intro!

Glad you were satisfied with the way it all turned out! And ACE is my go to for any fastener I'm looking for - they do have an amazing selection!

 

[Wifey]

Hahahaha! Celebratin!

 

[Wifey]

Our trucks have disc brakes on the rear - correct??

What are you guys talking about with the drums?

Does the Dakota have rear drum brakes?

Sorry but I'm confused lol

I know some vehicles have front disc and rear drum but i thought the 10 was all disc

 

[2005ViperRam]

Our trucks have disc brakes on the rear - correct??

What are you guys talking about with the drums?

Does the Dakota have rear drum brakes?

Sorry but I'm confused lol

I know some vehicles have front disc and rear drum but i thought the 10 was all disc

The SRT-10 has two types of brakes on the rear. The normal disk “pad” brakes that use a caliper, kind of like what is used on the front, but a different part number. It also uses drum brakes, which uses “shoes”.

The shoe brakes are located inside the rotor and are for the emergency brake only. It is mechanical and when you press down on your emergency brake peddle, it pushes the shoes outwards on either side of the rotor. So the pads grab the rotor from the outside, while the shoes press against the inside of the rotor to cause it to stop. Rarely do the shoes ever need changing since it’s only used when you apply the emergency brake peddle. This picture helps.

 

[2005ViperRam]

Forgot to post this picture from the Rock Auto website…
Yes, the ones I purchased (which are not listed anymore) crossed to the SRT-10 Mopar part number.

 

[Wifey]

The SRT-10 has two types of brakes on the rear. The normal disk “pad” brakes that use a caliper, kind of like what is used on the front, but a different part number. It also uses drum brakes, which uses “shoes”.

The shoe brakes are located inside the rotor and are for the emergency brake only. It is mechanical and when you press down on your emergency brake peddle, it pushes the shoes outwards on either side of the rotor. So the pads grab the rotor from the outside, while the shoes press against the inside of the rotor to cause it to stop. Rarely do the shoes ever need changing since it’s only used when you apply the emergency brake peddle. This picture helps.

Ahhhh!! Excellent! Thank you. Makes perfect sense now

 

[VIPR PWR]

Our trucks have disc brakes on the rear - correct??

What are you guys talking about with the drums?

Does the Dakota have rear drum brakes?

Sorry but I'm confused lol

I know some vehicles have front disc and rear drum but i thought the 10 was all disc

Yes drums on the rear , discs on the front .

The 10’s have 4 wheel disc brakes but the rear rotors have a built in drum so to say with drum type brake pads as the emergency brake .. a 2 in 1 thing .