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I'm also using a one-piece oil relief shuttle instead of the o.e.m. three-piece which added 12-15 p.s.i. of pressure I didn't want. That's primarily why I dropped to 0-30 from 0-40. There is no oscillation with this shuttle and pressure is rock-solid. The Gen IV Bearings and "bathtub reliefs"...

Gooday' If YOUR Lifters/Followers are louder at start-up, then quiet down, they very likely need more preload. Is the starter laboring at all? If so, that's another indication.

No, No and No :)

When the truck heads to Barrett-Jackson next week, it's the first thing they will notice and mention.

Mine have been on the truck since new. I rotate them every oil change to keep them fresh.

Like a Black Box on a plane, they always survive. Now, it's just a matter of convincing someone to ride back there.

Someone is doing a thorough investigation so the insurance company doesn't get stuck with a bogus hail-damage claim.:) It looks like it smacked a train at a level crossing, then bounced off that and was run over by a fully-loaded earthmover at which time it bounced again and accidentally set...

I had a 1968 AMX that had a rebuildable windshield washer pump. Now entire dishwashers and fridges are thrown out after 5 years or so. And I thought banning plastic bags and straws was going to save the planet.

The Brushes/Commutator are low voltage and it doesn't take much in the way of oil, antifreeze or ps fluid to prevent contact between them. Normally, just a brush replacement and a bit of cleaning will restore an alternator to its former glory. I remember blasting an alternator that was soaked...

As in....will they be damaged??? They need to be able to produce/support that power level. Not so much an issue whether they would structurally survive..Again, they are beefy and as long as they seal and are properly ported, the power will be there. Efforts towards sealing big boost via...

Only so much can be done to reinforce an o.e.m. block. Even then, it will quickly reach its limits. Strikers and Striker-Rs are beefy and work well in their intended applications.

If you look closely on any Top-Fuel engine block, you can normally spot a beer label of some kind.

As they are pricing aluminum these days like there is a world shortage, I'd say 20+ grand for the bare block, if not more. To turn a solid chunk of high-grade material into an engine block takes expensive equipment, programming, time and know-how. When you think about it, if your goal is to...

Stock blocks aren't strong enough. Custom billet engine blocks are required at high power levels.

No more specifics at this time. I anxious to see what the Striker-R heads I sold him can really do on an all-out forced induction setup. That's what they were designed for. The projected 3000 wheel horsepower should provide adequate acceleration merging onto freeways and passing on 2-lane roads.

UPDATE (from Dom) Truck has not been sold. Engine did not blow up and is still at the builders (Calvo Viper/Motorsports) He has a serious build going on here. Race heads seen with a welded fire-ring.

I'll reach out and see if he volunteers any info... He was stressing a stock-block pretty severely, so a failure wouldn't surprise me. They start squirming around at the 1000 horsepower mark. I.O.W. they were never designed for forced induction, not to that extent anyway. I went with better...

Yup. 19 years for me was a good run.

As the 1/2 dozen or so people on here must realize, this site is deathly QUIET. However, there is a TON of good information buried in various threads compiled over several years. It would be good to upload it (somewhere) and make it all available for future reference. Maybe for a price(?) The...