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What about the driver's side? Again, not that this really matters, but I'm curious. Thank you as always, Ronnie!

Not that it really matters, but I noticed today the driver's side fender is stamped "MOPAR" along the upper lip, where as the passenger side is not. Both look about equal in their age, as does the surrounding components that connect to the fender. Can anyone pop their hood/bonnet and see if...

Oh yeah! These engines, in running conditon, can fetch $7-10k easily (more if they're low-mileage and very clean.) Hell, I'd suspect a blown one would still net around $2-3K.

Dodge RAM SRT10 2004-2006 Emblems and Parts (theviperstore.com)

Damn! I must've gotten a good one then - the battery in my 2012 RAM (built Oct. 2011) lasted until Jan. 2020.

Honestly, an OEM Mopar battery would be a great choice. That, or an Optima "Yellow Top" or even an Interstate. To give you an idea how good the Mopar batteries can be, my 2012 (purchased Oct. 2011) RAM's battery lasted over 9 years!

The engines really are about half the value of these trucks. However, too many people think they're simply a normal Ram with a Viper engine - when in reality, they're so much more than that.

Does anyone happen to know the bleeder screw size? I'm gonna order a wrench while I wait for my rebuild kits to come in.

That's a little rich for my blood. Hopefully a good cleaning and rebuild gives me reliable brakes for at least a few years.

That's very helpful! Thank you!

Thanks, Colt!

Hey guys! Of course within (2) months of owning the truck my driver's-side front caliper decides to lock up and nearly burst into flames - I mean, it was smoking like a Waffle House parking lot! That said, I've ordered a couple rebuild kits from JTSVP. My questions are: 1) How difficult of a...

I've heard others say that after pulling the heads, that they could still see the honing marks - that's freaking cool! In the event of a catastrophic engine failure, I wonder what a 10 with a blown engine is worth? I'd assume $8-10k?

Holy cow! Something like this is my worst nightmare, as the money involved is beyond what I could muster. I wonder what could have caused this with on 67k on the clock?

I'm just a back yard mechanic, even on my best days. Do you think U-joints and the carrier bearing are something a dude like me could handle? I'm assuming things could get ugly if done incorrectly.

*UPDATE* I drained and refilled the diffrential with Mobil 1 75W-90 gear oil, took her for a 10 mile drive and even did some figure-8s in a church parking lot to get the clutches going - no dice. It's looking like it may be the carrier bearing after all. I noticed while I was under the ol' girl...

Ronnie, I hate to bother you again, but the manual calls for Mopar SAE 90W - I can't find straight 90 weight gear oil anywhere online. What are other SRT-10 guys running, or what do you suggest?

:eek: I thought the same thing! Very odd price! However, if those are the real miles, that's freaking awesome!

I was watching random SRT-10 vids on YouTube, when I came across this very sad, badly beaten 2005 quad-cab. However, once I dried my tears, my jaw hit the floor - over 300k miles on the clock! Do you really think the 8.3L is that tough? Can it really soldier on for that long? Here's the link...

Thank you, Ronnie!