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Fan seems to be working fine but I will attempt to see a what temp it comes on. Know the tune was not changed. Seems that if the fan comes on even at 195 it would still keep the temp from going to 210.

Running a 170 stat but the tune was not changed. I can be sitting in line at a DQ in 95 degree weather and the temp will ease up to 205. Also, on the highway when it rises above 200 I can turn off the air-conditioner and in 4-5 miles it will drop back to the 190-195 range.

I try to keep my truck oil and water temp below 200. 210 at the outside. In the Texas heat (95-105) if I run at 60 mph (not happening) all is well but at 70 upward the temp rises to an unacceptable level. Question----will adding a row to the radiator help? Our tanks have two rows but...

Mine went bad and I replaced the entire pedal assembly. About 120,000 mile back. I try not to use the brake any more than absolutely necessary.

Would not have it any other way. Thanks friend

What would we do without you Ronnie----your great.

Will turn 160,000 miles next week and never had a caliper failure.

Had my bride stand on the scales then had her pick up a wheel and get back on the scales. :)

Thanks my friend.

Only the small u-shaped yoke that works the neutral safety switch and allow full travel of the shifting lever is broken. Fluid looked and smelled as brand new---zero in the pan except for the broken part and never had to adjust the bands. All look very good. We plan to replace the part...

My auto would not go into park or reverse. Mechanic found the broken chingale that connects with the neutral safety switch and effects the shift lever. Question, would you change the solenoids as well. Never once giving a problem in over 100K miles. Why fix is it ain't broke?

My rebuild has just over 108,000 miles. Still perfect.

Most likely does put power back to the rear wheels but 5600 pounds is a lot to make jump off the line. Add my 275 and you got a lot to launch.

Actually I get that quick jump of the truck when cursing at say 30 and lower the boom. Much more violent than a stand still launch. Down shifting with an open throttle is the best feeling of the "old" muscle cars to me. If I am not careful and the surface is not great my truck will start...

Tighter, not so loose but not sure about faster power. Just less like a "toy" that someone remembered it needed a drive train.

No more banging and rattling when launching, no more banging and rattling when the tranny power shifted. The 2 piece shaft was really a bad set up for such a powerful engine.

Installed a one piece aluminum shaft at 35K and at 158,000 still running great. Got rid of the silly 2 piece and that ugly baring that is supposed to hold it on. One piece is the only way to go.

Replace mine at 140,000 miles and wanted a smother ride (I being 72) and that was a huge mistake. Going back with OEM.

No code, just the way it was running. I explained it here on the site and got the responses from a number of folks. That is what this place is all about.

I have reported about the troubles I had with O’Reilly’s and their TPS. 2 bad ones and on the 3rd. I had another issue but could live with it until I got time to fix. When I hit a bump or pot hole that jarred the front end the engine would die. Only for a slit second then run like...