robwclark
Full Access Member
First of all, I want all you seasoned VTCOA members to excuse my long drawn-out fully descriptive wording because people searching Google may see the thread and not understand our "VTCOA language".
OK guys this will come as a surprise to most of you but I am being forced to sell my pride & joy. I am not tired of it, or selling because its a POS, or giving me too many problems or anything. I must sell it because I have a large debt from last year. I now work for the company I used to own, and we are just not profiting enough to be able to repay this debt fast enough(don't ask how much I owe, its crazy). However, I can live with the debt for now, but selling the only physical thing I own and enjoy is killing me. I am actually very upset, and truly in a form of depression over this. Its my only vehicle(besides my wifes minivan), and it hurts me to do this. I can't look forward to the evening or weekend modification any more. I have worked many 70 to 100 hour weeks over the past 15 years building my business, just to lose it last year in the Chrysler
bankruptcy, and now the only thing I own, that I have left, is going away. That being said, this truck hasn't had a penny spared while being built. It is 100% road ready and very, very reliable.
I bought this truck from a fellow VTCOA member Fred Voss back in November, 2009. Originally I only bought this truck for the power train. I was going to remove the entire power train and install it in my 2006 Ram SRT-10. Please, its just my opinion, but I strongly prefer the look of the 2006 over the 2004 & 2005s. Well, after getting the truck here and looking at everything, I came to the conclusion there were just too many sorts of fabrication, and this would be a much bigger job than anticipated. On top of that the truck just performed too perfectly. I was just scared to mess with success.
So, I decided that I would compromise, and do a 2006 body & interior conversion. I got the exterior part of the conversion done, and got the 2006 seats installed. Soon after though, I discovered the 2004 seats to be much more comfortable, so I switched them back. The interior of the truck is now all stock except for the 3-gauge A-pillar, and the switches for the Line-locks mounted next to the radio. While performing the conversion, the front bumper and grill were the only parts I bought brand new from the dealer. The headlamps, came off my 2006 SRT10. The hood is the same so it's original. The hard part was finding factory painted "PS2 Silver" fenders from another 2006-2008 Ram truck. I found one in Oklahoma, and another in El Paso, both at parts recyclers. Everything mounted right up, and fit wonderfully. I took my time with each and every bolt not to scratch them with wrenches, so there isnt any "turned body bolts" under the hood. I did all the work myself. Silver wasnt available in 2006, so it really is a rare-looking truck.
The original owner of the truck, Fred Voss had Nick at Modern Performance Inc(MPI) in New Jersey do all the work. MPI has since stopped taking outside work, but still exists there in NJ. There were many factors involved before I would make such a large purchase. After speaking with the owner of the truck, Fred Voss, and Nick at MPI, I could read between the lines and tell with near certainty, this was a well put together truck. I am 35 years old now, and I have been modifying vehicles since I was 15. After all of the years I have been doing this, I have learned a lot, and been screwed over more than my share of times. I have learned if you want a job done right there are only 2 ways. The 1st way is to do it yourself. The 2nd way is to pay out the nose for it. That being said, this is a well put together truck. Now I am sure some of you don't agree with some of the ways this truck is set up, heck there are things I might change too, but overall it performs incredibly.
Fred brought the truck into Nick at MPI in 2007. he told Nick he wanted the truck to have as much power as possible, and perform as reliably as possible. There is a compromise here, and that is the boost level. The boost is set at a safe 8 lbs and makes over 800 RWHP. This is the most power available and still retain good reliability. The boost can be raised to say 12 lbs, and still run just fine, its just a bit on the unsafe side. During tuning they turned the boost up to 12 lbs, but the truck started spinning the tires on the dyno at about 875 RWHP, so it cant be tested without different tires anyway. They lowered the boost to 8 lbs and saw uncorrected 858 RWHP. The truck had the following modifications performed at MPI.
The engine was removed and torn down.
*Bored Stock Block .010 over.
*Stroked Crank.
*Forged CP Pistons.
*Forged Manley Rods
*Billet Mains
*Crower Cam
*Ported & Polished Stock Heads
*Port Matched & Fully Polished Intake Manifold
*New Lifters & Pushrods
*New Bearings
*New Double Roller Timing Chain & Gears
*ARP Rod & Main Bolts
*Polished X-Metal Valve covers
*X-Metal(cant remember exact make) Roller rockers
*X-Metal Mono blade Throttle Body
*Ballenger Long tube Headers
*Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge
*Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge
*SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch
*Twin Line Locks
*Cal-Tracs Traction bars
*Twin Garrett 35 Water Cooled Turbo's
*Custom oil collector
*Braided oil lines
*Oil Return Pump
*Professionally Fabricated Intake Tubing
*Braided Coolant Lines
*Custom fittings throughout
*Custom Turbo Mounting Bracket
*Twin Exhaust Blowoff Valves
*Paxton Intake Blowoff valve
*Boost controller
*Dash Switches for Line Locks & Boost Controller
*Huge Water-to-Air intercooler
*Heat Exchanger
*Paxton Coolant Pump
*Paxton Coolant Tank
*Braided 1" Coolant Lines
*Complete Aeromotive Fuel system
*Eliminator Fuel Pump
*3/4" braided fuel line tank to pump
*5/8" braided fuel line pump to fuel rail
*twin Aeromotive reusable fuel filters
*1/2 Braided Return Fuel Line to tank
*Custom Fuel Fittings throughout
*4 Stand Alone Injectors
*Tunable Stand Alone Injector PCM
*Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
*Aeromotive Fuel pressure boost control
I took the truck in to my friend's dyno in Ft. Worth called Simple-Quick Racing last Tuesday, Sep 28th. It was the day before a cold front came in so it was still 93 deg in the shop during the test. The truck put down 822 RWHP & 856 RWT. I had previously installed a pair of 3 chamber 3" flowmasters on the truck. These are horribly flowing mufflers, but they are very-quiet and sound incredible. The truck already had SOOO much power, I put them on anyway. The flowmaster tech line told me on a 1000 HP application I would lose 100 RWHP over straight pipe. I duno about 100, but I'll guarantee its 40 HP down. What I'm saying is, if we pull the mufflers back off, and dyno in 40 deg temps, I bet we see over 900 RWHP if it keeps traction. I really figured in the 93 deg heat with the flowmasters on we wouldn't see 800, but we saw 822, and this was uncorrected. As many of you know, dyno operators can make certain adjustments/corrections to the graph and raise HP numbers slightly. I have the uncorrected dyno sheets too.
I have made some improvements and done a few modifications myself. The truck has a full Aeromotive fuel system. When I got the truck, the fuel pump was set at factory 12v constant feed. Well, the pump only lasted about 3000 miles including the 1000 I had logged up to that point, plus the 2000 miles Fred Voss put on the power train before I got it. I sent the pump off to Aeromotive in Kansas, and had it 100% rebuilt. It has warranty until April 2011. After speaking with a few members here, and Aeromotive, I decided to buy the Aeromotive fuel pump controller which feeds lower voltage to the pump during normal driving then gives it full 12v at full throttle. This should allow the pump to last a long time.
This truck weighs 5040 lbs with 1/2 tank of fuel. I have done everything I could to lose weight. I removed the metal part of the front bumper except for the section between the front frame horns. I left that for safety(god forbid I hit a pole or a tree). The rear bumper has been removed completely. I fabricated some custom brackets, etc, to make the front & rear bumper covers fit correctly. The factory tow package is still in tact 100% and able to tow like 8000 lbs with this truck if you wanted to. I used it to pull a Chrysler minivan on a car hauler trailer once. It pulled wonderfully, and I was surprised it didnt squat the truck at all. The tow package is quite heavy, but can be removed and probably drop another 50 lbs or so.
The next change I made was to re-wire the entire non-factory portion of the wiring of the truck. While installing the fuel pump controller I noticed the non-factory portion of the wiring had a few flaws. After 2 years of the initial installation it was just time to rewire things. Also, this was a good opportunity to learn the wiring of all the mod's. I decided to completely re-wire everything. This included the fuel pump, the water pump for the intercooler, the boost controller, the fuel system PCM, the Line locks, tach signal pick-up module, etc. I also installed an AEM Air/Fuel Monitor.
During this past June, & July here in Texas, I noticed the A/C wasnt blowing as cold as it should. The heat exchanger was mounted directly on the front of the A/C condensor. I removed it and reinstalled it at a 45 deg angle inside the lower portion of the front bumper and installed a super-high velocity fan. This instantly fixed the a/c and now blows very cold.
I installed 18" long 4" aluminum flex Hose to the turbo inlets with New K&N Cone filters to move the inlet air away from the exhaust heat. I also installed 24 all new T-Bolt hose clamps on every section of the intake(At $8 each do the math hose clamps can be expensive).
I added the stripes, and Night Runner headlamps, Night Runner Wheels, 2006 SRT Bed Cover and Dodge Bed Rug, and tinted 2008 tail lights. The stripes were only a test to see if I liked the way they looked before I had them painted on. Well, turns out the stripes took a very long time to put on because I wanted them perfectly straight. They looked so good, I just left them on instead of painting on the truck. If the buyer doesn't like them, just peel them off.
OK, there ya go folks. I hope I have described this truck in complete detail. The truck is in perfect condition, not a scratch on it. It is fully loaded and I have the original window sticker. It has the optional side airbags and tow package. I removed the subwoofer for weight. If I can find it, it will be included too. The factory navigation system was crap, trust me, so I installed a factory 6-Disc In-Dash CD player. The truck has 21,000 miles on it now. The engine and turbo's have about 5,000 miles on them. I have put 3000 miles on the truck myself. The truck has OEM Pirelli Scorpions with about 75% tread remaining. This is a bargain considering the cost to reproduce this truck. I paid Fred a pretty penny, and I have spent a ton getting it all set up 100% perfect, not to mention the body conversion. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to call me. I am asking $39,995 for the truck, but I will take $35,995 from a VTCOA member. I am also open to the idea of taking a trade. If someone has something they want to trade me like a stock SRT-10 + $$$, I'll listen. Just ask for Robert. (817)517-4313
OK guys this will come as a surprise to most of you but I am being forced to sell my pride & joy. I am not tired of it, or selling because its a POS, or giving me too many problems or anything. I must sell it because I have a large debt from last year. I now work for the company I used to own, and we are just not profiting enough to be able to repay this debt fast enough(don't ask how much I owe, its crazy). However, I can live with the debt for now, but selling the only physical thing I own and enjoy is killing me. I am actually very upset, and truly in a form of depression over this. Its my only vehicle(besides my wifes minivan), and it hurts me to do this. I can't look forward to the evening or weekend modification any more. I have worked many 70 to 100 hour weeks over the past 15 years building my business, just to lose it last year in the Chrysler
bankruptcy, and now the only thing I own, that I have left, is going away. That being said, this truck hasn't had a penny spared while being built. It is 100% road ready and very, very reliable.
I bought this truck from a fellow VTCOA member Fred Voss back in November, 2009. Originally I only bought this truck for the power train. I was going to remove the entire power train and install it in my 2006 Ram SRT-10. Please, its just my opinion, but I strongly prefer the look of the 2006 over the 2004 & 2005s. Well, after getting the truck here and looking at everything, I came to the conclusion there were just too many sorts of fabrication, and this would be a much bigger job than anticipated. On top of that the truck just performed too perfectly. I was just scared to mess with success.
So, I decided that I would compromise, and do a 2006 body & interior conversion. I got the exterior part of the conversion done, and got the 2006 seats installed. Soon after though, I discovered the 2004 seats to be much more comfortable, so I switched them back. The interior of the truck is now all stock except for the 3-gauge A-pillar, and the switches for the Line-locks mounted next to the radio. While performing the conversion, the front bumper and grill were the only parts I bought brand new from the dealer. The headlamps, came off my 2006 SRT10. The hood is the same so it's original. The hard part was finding factory painted "PS2 Silver" fenders from another 2006-2008 Ram truck. I found one in Oklahoma, and another in El Paso, both at parts recyclers. Everything mounted right up, and fit wonderfully. I took my time with each and every bolt not to scratch them with wrenches, so there isnt any "turned body bolts" under the hood. I did all the work myself. Silver wasnt available in 2006, so it really is a rare-looking truck.
The original owner of the truck, Fred Voss had Nick at Modern Performance Inc(MPI) in New Jersey do all the work. MPI has since stopped taking outside work, but still exists there in NJ. There were many factors involved before I would make such a large purchase. After speaking with the owner of the truck, Fred Voss, and Nick at MPI, I could read between the lines and tell with near certainty, this was a well put together truck. I am 35 years old now, and I have been modifying vehicles since I was 15. After all of the years I have been doing this, I have learned a lot, and been screwed over more than my share of times. I have learned if you want a job done right there are only 2 ways. The 1st way is to do it yourself. The 2nd way is to pay out the nose for it. That being said, this is a well put together truck. Now I am sure some of you don't agree with some of the ways this truck is set up, heck there are things I might change too, but overall it performs incredibly.
Fred brought the truck into Nick at MPI in 2007. he told Nick he wanted the truck to have as much power as possible, and perform as reliably as possible. There is a compromise here, and that is the boost level. The boost is set at a safe 8 lbs and makes over 800 RWHP. This is the most power available and still retain good reliability. The boost can be raised to say 12 lbs, and still run just fine, its just a bit on the unsafe side. During tuning they turned the boost up to 12 lbs, but the truck started spinning the tires on the dyno at about 875 RWHP, so it cant be tested without different tires anyway. They lowered the boost to 8 lbs and saw uncorrected 858 RWHP. The truck had the following modifications performed at MPI.
The engine was removed and torn down.
*Bored Stock Block .010 over.
*Stroked Crank.
*Forged CP Pistons.
*Forged Manley Rods
*Billet Mains
*Crower Cam
*Ported & Polished Stock Heads
*Port Matched & Fully Polished Intake Manifold
*New Lifters & Pushrods
*New Bearings
*New Double Roller Timing Chain & Gears
*ARP Rod & Main Bolts
*Polished X-Metal Valve covers
*X-Metal(cant remember exact make) Roller rockers
*X-Metal Mono blade Throttle Body
*Ballenger Long tube Headers
*Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge
*Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge
*SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch
*Twin Line Locks
*Cal-Tracs Traction bars
*Twin Garrett 35 Water Cooled Turbo's
*Custom oil collector
*Braided oil lines
*Oil Return Pump
*Professionally Fabricated Intake Tubing
*Braided Coolant Lines
*Custom fittings throughout
*Custom Turbo Mounting Bracket
*Twin Exhaust Blowoff Valves
*Paxton Intake Blowoff valve
*Boost controller
*Dash Switches for Line Locks & Boost Controller
*Huge Water-to-Air intercooler
*Heat Exchanger
*Paxton Coolant Pump
*Paxton Coolant Tank
*Braided 1" Coolant Lines
*Complete Aeromotive Fuel system
*Eliminator Fuel Pump
*3/4" braided fuel line tank to pump
*5/8" braided fuel line pump to fuel rail
*twin Aeromotive reusable fuel filters
*1/2 Braided Return Fuel Line to tank
*Custom Fuel Fittings throughout
*4 Stand Alone Injectors
*Tunable Stand Alone Injector PCM
*Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
*Aeromotive Fuel pressure boost control
I took the truck in to my friend's dyno in Ft. Worth called Simple-Quick Racing last Tuesday, Sep 28th. It was the day before a cold front came in so it was still 93 deg in the shop during the test. The truck put down 822 RWHP & 856 RWT. I had previously installed a pair of 3 chamber 3" flowmasters on the truck. These are horribly flowing mufflers, but they are very-quiet and sound incredible. The truck already had SOOO much power, I put them on anyway. The flowmaster tech line told me on a 1000 HP application I would lose 100 RWHP over straight pipe. I duno about 100, but I'll guarantee its 40 HP down. What I'm saying is, if we pull the mufflers back off, and dyno in 40 deg temps, I bet we see over 900 RWHP if it keeps traction. I really figured in the 93 deg heat with the flowmasters on we wouldn't see 800, but we saw 822, and this was uncorrected. As many of you know, dyno operators can make certain adjustments/corrections to the graph and raise HP numbers slightly. I have the uncorrected dyno sheets too.
I have made some improvements and done a few modifications myself. The truck has a full Aeromotive fuel system. When I got the truck, the fuel pump was set at factory 12v constant feed. Well, the pump only lasted about 3000 miles including the 1000 I had logged up to that point, plus the 2000 miles Fred Voss put on the power train before I got it. I sent the pump off to Aeromotive in Kansas, and had it 100% rebuilt. It has warranty until April 2011. After speaking with a few members here, and Aeromotive, I decided to buy the Aeromotive fuel pump controller which feeds lower voltage to the pump during normal driving then gives it full 12v at full throttle. This should allow the pump to last a long time.
This truck weighs 5040 lbs with 1/2 tank of fuel. I have done everything I could to lose weight. I removed the metal part of the front bumper except for the section between the front frame horns. I left that for safety(god forbid I hit a pole or a tree). The rear bumper has been removed completely. I fabricated some custom brackets, etc, to make the front & rear bumper covers fit correctly. The factory tow package is still in tact 100% and able to tow like 8000 lbs with this truck if you wanted to. I used it to pull a Chrysler minivan on a car hauler trailer once. It pulled wonderfully, and I was surprised it didnt squat the truck at all. The tow package is quite heavy, but can be removed and probably drop another 50 lbs or so.
The next change I made was to re-wire the entire non-factory portion of the wiring of the truck. While installing the fuel pump controller I noticed the non-factory portion of the wiring had a few flaws. After 2 years of the initial installation it was just time to rewire things. Also, this was a good opportunity to learn the wiring of all the mod's. I decided to completely re-wire everything. This included the fuel pump, the water pump for the intercooler, the boost controller, the fuel system PCM, the Line locks, tach signal pick-up module, etc. I also installed an AEM Air/Fuel Monitor.
During this past June, & July here in Texas, I noticed the A/C wasnt blowing as cold as it should. The heat exchanger was mounted directly on the front of the A/C condensor. I removed it and reinstalled it at a 45 deg angle inside the lower portion of the front bumper and installed a super-high velocity fan. This instantly fixed the a/c and now blows very cold.
I installed 18" long 4" aluminum flex Hose to the turbo inlets with New K&N Cone filters to move the inlet air away from the exhaust heat. I also installed 24 all new T-Bolt hose clamps on every section of the intake(At $8 each do the math hose clamps can be expensive).
I added the stripes, and Night Runner headlamps, Night Runner Wheels, 2006 SRT Bed Cover and Dodge Bed Rug, and tinted 2008 tail lights. The stripes were only a test to see if I liked the way they looked before I had them painted on. Well, turns out the stripes took a very long time to put on because I wanted them perfectly straight. They looked so good, I just left them on instead of painting on the truck. If the buyer doesn't like them, just peel them off.
OK, there ya go folks. I hope I have described this truck in complete detail. The truck is in perfect condition, not a scratch on it. It is fully loaded and I have the original window sticker. It has the optional side airbags and tow package. I removed the subwoofer for weight. If I can find it, it will be included too. The factory navigation system was crap, trust me, so I installed a factory 6-Disc In-Dash CD player. The truck has 21,000 miles on it now. The engine and turbo's have about 5,000 miles on them. I have put 3000 miles on the truck myself. The truck has OEM Pirelli Scorpions with about 75% tread remaining. This is a bargain considering the cost to reproduce this truck. I paid Fred a pretty penny, and I have spent a ton getting it all set up 100% perfect, not to mention the body conversion. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to call me. I am asking $39,995 for the truck, but I will take $35,995 from a VTCOA member. I am also open to the idea of taking a trade. If someone has something they want to trade me like a stock SRT-10 + $$$, I'll listen. Just ask for Robert. (817)517-4313
...but I will say that is one of the cleanest lookin turbo jobs I have seen on these trucks (under hood)...:rock:
