2005 Ram got its lean on...

texastonka

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I bought a 2005 SRT10 RC and have been through a little bit so far in the month or so I have owned it. Had to replace the rear end because it exploded on me, upgraded all the lines and got new pads and rotors so on and so on...

Issue is the truck always seemed to lean a bit to the drivers side. Sure enough using a tape measure it is about 3/4 of an inch difference between front finished floor elevation to top of fender opening. Is this normal? Shocks are good, springs seem to be okay. Only has 33K on it...

Any ideas?

BTW stock suspension, all poly bushings and caltrac kit...
 
they all do, all the wieght is on the drivers side, the battery, the driver, the fuel tank, so over time they tend to droop to one side
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
they all do, all the wieght is on the drivers side, the battery, the driver, the fuel tank, so over time they tend to droop to one side


Anyway to get the lean out of her? Replace the shocks/springs?

Don't want to drop it, would not be opposed to leveling the rear though. Any thoughts?
 
shocks do nothing, they only absorb the suspension travel
find a local commercial truck repair shop, they will know of a spring shop
have the spring on one side arched up a little to take up the slack;)
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
shocks do nothing, they only absorb the suspension travel
find a local commercial truck repair shop, they will know of a spring shop
have the spring on one side arched up a little to take up the slack;)
Exactly....:rock:
 
Back in the day, I believe Patrick cut his stock springs in the front to lower it about an inch or so.....IMHO, it might just be easier and cheaper to cut the right front spring down to match the other side....you might shoot him a pm to get more details....

EDIT - that, or install a spacer on the driver side to raise it back up.....if you can find one, a 1 inch spacer for the front left would work perfect....if you are pretty handy, you can probably make one....
 
he can do that if he wants jsut not a fan of cutting coils, but half a coil is about 3/4 inch 3/4 coil is about an inch, over time the rubber spacers will sqaush and take form they def dont last
 
You can always add a leveling block to one side. Mine is off as well. Instead of changing springs, its an easy fix.
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
they all do, all the wieght is on the drivers side, the battery, the driver, the fuel tank, so over time they tend to droop to one side


Didn't want to go lower because it is my daily driver. But if I do go lower how is the ride? Is it any stiffer than the stock? How does it work with the caltracs? Besides looking better does it help at all? Would hate to drive hundreds of miles across Texas back roads in something that will rattle out my fillings on a washboard road.

I assume the lowering kit with new springs will not have sag in it?
 
the lowering kit I have works well with caltracs, so no worries there, and honestly it rides almost as good as stock , now anytime you lower anything it does get rough on large bumps

but if you want to drop down a little and level at the same time, we can cut one block 1 inch the other 2, but in a situation of extreme lean, I would suggest the rear spring get arched or dearched, but either way will work buddy
 
the lowering kit I have works well with caltracs, so no worries there, and honestly it rides almost as good as stock , now anytime you lower anything it does get rough on large bumps

but if you want to drop down a little and level at the same time, we can cut one block 1 inch the other 2, but in a situation of extreme lean, I would suggest the rear spring get arched or dearched, but either way will work buddy

Ordered new front springs from the dealership today, will be here in 3-5. That should take care of the front. On the rear where would I look to get a spring arched? Was thinking about new OEM rear springs but at $365/ea that is getting a bit steep.

I am just not to sure about using blocks in the rear to lower it. From my 4x4 background we always threw away the blocks and had Atlas or Deaver build us springs to avoid axle wrap.
 
Ordered new front springs from the dealership today, will be here in 3-5. That should take care of the front. On the rear where would I look to get a spring arched? Was thinking about new OEM rear springs but at $365/ea that is getting a bit steep.

I am just not to sure about using blocks in the rear to lower it. From my 4x4 background we always threw away the blocks and had Atlas or Deaver build us springs to avoid axle wrap.

Most spring shops can dearch springs! I know of 2 here in Waco that do it. Like you I used to lift trucks and I hated blocks until they came out with Billet or Extruded ones. The cast ones were terrible on anything other than a show truck. I'd simply remove the rear spring packs and lay them on the ground the way they mount ( like an upside down rainbow) and see if there is a noticable difference from one side to the other? I really can't justify you replacing the rear spring packs for any reason less the guy had a gooseneck hitch in the biatch. ( There is a 10 somewhere in Centex that has a gooseneck/fifth wheel in his QC).:mad:
 
they all do, all the wieght is on the drivers side, the battery, the driver, the fuel tank, so over time they tend to droop to one side

Dont forget the motor and tranny are shoved about 2 inches to the passenger side to make more room in the foot well
 

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