5yrs and 100,000 miles...

Chuck B

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
Messages
1,309
Reaction score
2
Location
Phoenix, AZ
While I'm just shy of 100,000 miles officially I've gotten several requests to go over the history with my SRT10. I purchased 11/5/04 new from our very own Avondale Dodge here in Arizona. Patrick was still in High School back then...:rock:

I've done all my own maintenance though as you'll see I did have some warranty work completed. I'll be doing my 32nd oil/filter change in about 1000 miles (100,000) and have changed both the trans and diff oil every 10,000 miles. A bit overkill I know but I'd consider a combination of my driving style and higher temps here in Phx justify a bit more frequent maintenance.

13,700 - new Pirelli tires
13,700 - Warranty...passenger side AC warm. Dealer checked system...ok
15,092 - Warranty...new power steering pump. Dealer agreed to replace steering rack as well
15,092 - Warranty...Passenger side AC warm. Dealer added Freon. It helped.
28,480 - new Pirelli tires. Flushed brake and clutch fluid
29,230 - EBC green front pads. Factory pads were done. Rotors grooved and were turned
30,326 - Warranty...window weather strip replaced. clutch/brake pedal pads replaced due to wear
30,922 - Warranty...oil cooler lines
30,922 - Rear axle bearing bad. Axle gutted and rebuilt to new. Dealer had to obtain replacement axle from mexico factory
31,025 - Xmetal suspension and lots of billet parts
35,338 - Warranty...New steering rack. One seal began to leak
35,338 - Warranty...Oil cooler lines leaking
35,505 - Coolant flush
36,050 - New Goodyear tires (did a few race events)
40,866 - new spark plugs, flushed brakes and clutch fluid
44,143 - new optima battery
47,309 - 2 new Nikko tires (still doing race events),
47,309 - Front EBC pads, rotors are at limits so left them as is
49,255 - 2 new Nikko tires
49,255 - Power steering line leaking. Made up my own line (pre Stinker)
50,725 - Oil cooler lines leaking, Ended up building my own lines (pre stinker)
50,725 - Zeckhausen front rotors, front and rear pads. OEM rear rotors
51,261 - Permastar coated rims.
55,313 - New Yoko Prada tires (still doing race events)
55,402 - New inner fenders (F&R) Tires wore through all
63,901 - Tire replaced due to damage (3/8" bolt pierced tread)
70,887 - Flushed brake and clutch fluid, Flushed power steering, new coolant
71,077 - Trans output seal
81,947 - Trans output seal leaking again...sanded shaft with good results
87,164 - Serpentine belt and tensioner replaced
89,985 - Flushed brake and clutch fluid
90,686 - New Optima Battery
96,977 - Flushed brake and clutch fluid

100,000 miles will need the following:
*New tires - will go with Yoko's again
*New spark plugs
*New plug wires
*Coolant flush
*Zeckhausen front pads though still not at limits! Will turn rotors even though not heavily worn
*Power steering flush

My tire usage was high due to racing events I was participating in. While I've only done a couple since installing the Yoko's they are heads above anything I've used. Same for Zeckhausen brakes...heads better. Our high heat here kills battery's. Did you notice I'm still on factory original clutch? :rock:

Enjoy your SRT's. Mine is getting better as the miles rack up! :congrats:
 
This is fkn awesome!!!!

Never did the hydraulic upgrade either.

To the next 100,000 miles :beer:
 
What a difference in changing clutch fluid every oil change? No more misses:rock: Way to go :congrats::congrats:
 
Two things I want to tackle in the short term....heat and heat. My intact temps average upwards of 30-40F above amb temps during summer. I use a scanner to monitor FiM temp sensor. When its over 100F ambient you do the math...! Along with that my radiator can barely keep up during our summer heat. I get hot enough that the ECU is pulling timing on a regular basis. Solution is to increase radiator size, increase flow and/or go after cooling the oil separately. Need to do some temp readings both in and out of the oil exchanger (aka cooler) as well as radiator to determine what direction to take.

Yes, it became obvious that the clutch fluid needed to be changed often. At the very least the reservoir should have been significantly larger from the factory. At the very least everyone with manual trans should take the 5 min to sux the fluid out of the resv and add new fluid. Not as good as a flush but better than letting it go as is.

Yup...still on factory hydr's for clutch. Need to go knock on some wood!!
 
Last edited:
joemags54 said:
Congrat's Chuck.:rock: How do you like the Zekenhausen brakes? :dontknow:

Factory pads made it to 30K miles. EBC pads reduced dust, still good bite but were wearing about the same rate as the factory pads. While the EBC's were significantly less squeal than OEM they did on occasion. Nothing to cause concern but every once in a while they'd sing loudly but just as quickly go quiet for many miles. They did seem to be a bit easier on the rotors too.

Zeckhausen's setup was even less dust and in my experience outstanding wear and little to no wear to rotor's even now at 50K miles. I can't recall ever hearing them squeal. Only down side is the initial bite is not as strong as the OEM or EBC's. Once you put some more pressure on the brake pedal I found overall stopping distances are indistinguishable. I'll stick with Zeckhausen's products going forward.
 
Congrats. Chuck. :congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :rock:
 
100K and original Clutch???...that must be a record here!!:rock: ......and yes the fluid flush makes big diff....just did one to mine and shifts like new....think I will do one every oil change.............also agree with the Zeckhausen pads....first mod I did (learned about them when I had the SRT8)...never a single squeel in 25K miles and the pads show almost no wear...:rock:
 
you know what's funny chuck...is that today...i was just thinking about a similar write up...as i near 80k on my 05 (and i've only had it for 3 years this month, and i bought it with 15k), i think they may have changed a few things, but for the most part, it's never been in the shop...

still on my original clutch and factory hydros, as well;)

good luck, chuck...let's keep em rollin':D :cheers:
 
viperhauler said:
you know what's funny chuck...is that today...i was just thinking about a similar write up...as i near 80k on my 05 (and i've only had it for 3 years this month, and i bought it with 15k), i think they may have changed a few things, but for the most part, it's never been in the shop...

still on my original clutch and factory hydros, as well;)

good luck, chuck...let's keep em rollin':D :cheers:

You must be my long lost twin! :p
 
One of the first mods I did was get a hitch from Patrick at Avondale. I have a bike carrier that I hang off the back, A kendon MC trailer, a 8ft Pace Arrow enclosed and soon to add a 12ft Haulmark tandem. And Dodge says you can't tow with a RC SRT10...Ha!

I'm just carrying race bikes and tires mostly so not a lot of weight but certainly get a few comments with the setup. :rock:
 
Man congrates to you guys. My clutch was slipping at 6.000 miles. But I did take it to the track with only 300 miles on it.
 
great write up.... just goes to show,overall very few problems with these trucks!:rock:
 
bigredv10 said:
Awsome! did I read that you replaced your oil cooler lines 3 times?

Warranty replaced at 30K and again at 35K. When they started leaking again at 50K thats when I pulled them off myself and realized what a crap design they are. Great if you are working on an assembly line and getting paid based on speed of assembly but if as an owner of said vehicle...:mad:

Power steering HP line connector at the pump is the same design. Its not a matter of if it will leak but when.
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top