AC Issue

[unionmanofsteel]

So you know it gets hot here in Charleston and for soem reason when you first start the truck up the AC is cold on the drivers side but is blowing out out hot humid air on the passenger side anybody have any suggestions as to what is going on it is driving the wife crazy she said it has always been that way since we bought but I never noticed because I dont ride in the passenger seat.

P.S. sorry i havenyt been around in awhile work and my daughters softball keeps me running.

 

[chrisheltra]

It is starting to get a tad bit warmer here. Do SRT10's have dual climate control? If not I would recommend that you hook a gauge set up to the a/c system to ensure that its working properly.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

take it to the dealre an have your circulation door checked, they go bad, causes air to go to one side only

 

[VIPR PWR]

What Tony said....Or you could just let the wife drive it...Problem cured, No more complaints

 

[blackviper]

I would check the freon level first. I had the same problem until I added a few ounces of freon over and above what the factory recommends. A pusher fan in front of the A/C condenser also helps a bunch.

 

[bigredv10]

Put a BIG fan infront of the condenser and turn the A/C on. Then check to see if the line from the condenser is warm and the return line from the evaporater is cold. Remember you have to have air moving for your A/C to work otherwise its useless. If that checks out then listen to tony

 

[Chuck B]

Those of us who live in real hot weather, unlike you southern boys, this is an old topic. While the Ram is notorious for broken Circ door you'll want to first go see your dealer or automotive AC person. Tell them to check freon level. If its low add but most likely it will check out as within parameters. Tell them to add a bit more. This will take care of 90% of the issue.

 

[Da1Chief]

Totally agree, go to the Dealer and have the Blend Doors Checked.... The Enitre Dash has to be pulled to fix the $5 piece of plastic... They will try to Over Charge the AC unit to fix the problem first but chances are that the Blend Doors will have to be changed out... Sorry, this can get expensive

Mine did it a couple of times, but I found out turning off the fan, then making the control changes, then turning the fan back on somehow helps and keeps the door from sticking. Don't know if it will work for you but it does for me...

 

[FastRam]

I saw a thread on here a while back that suggested to slide both temperature control levers, at the same time, from cold to heat and then back to cold.

My AC did the same thing, cold on driver side, warm/humid on passenger. My problem rarely occurs but when it did I tried the lever trick and it worked, cold air started to flow from the passenger side.

My dealer checked all the door operation/circuilation functions and freon level -- all checked out OK. I think part of my problem may have been air flow over the condenser coil -- lots of traffic here in N. VA.

 

[unionmanofsteel]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions I will start looking at all of them and see what turns up.

 

[HaroldD]

If one side is cold, and the other not, Tony's right on.

I believe I've posted before, but I'll add to this thread:
http://www.heatertreater.net/Ram 02-08 Listing.html
I'm not related, just a happy customer for another vehicle.

If the system generally performs poorly across all vents, the pusher fan works wonders and will give optimum cooling with the factory weight of R-134a.

 

[Jfireboy1]

I had the same exact problem and it was what most said " that $5 cheap plastic door!

 

[ccfeyh]

About 4 months ago, mine quit blowing any king of air, hot or cold and was making all kinds of nasty noise. Took it to the dealer and the "flapper door" had been eaten by the fan.

It's all fixed now and blowing like a cheap hooker.

 

[HousTEN]

I've found that the system has a number of issues:

On the stock truck, airflow over the condenser while in traffic or stopped is poor at best...the ECU cycles the hydraulic fan to keep the head pressure between about 325 and 350psi...quite high. It would appear that they originally intended to have a plastic shroud between the radiator and condenser to better channel the fan's airflow through the condenser, but this was left out when the trucks were actually built. I say this because the 2005 shop manual shows a shroud in the diagrams, and also has several steps in the condenser removal instructions that say to remove a shroud. A pusher or puller fan on the condenser will help this.

The flapper doors under the dash will sometimes misbehave, and as mentioned previously, can sometimes be fixed by going all the way hot, then all the way cold with the sliders. Sometimes this works for me, sometimes not.

This is an orifice tube system, so the evaporator is only operating under optimal conditions while at or near highway speeds.

Adding a few oz of refrigerant probably also wouldn't hurt....just keep an eye on your high side pressure as you add gas. Add in small amounts, and if the high side pressure starts to creep up stop adding!

 

[10banger]

I've found that the system has a number of issues:

On the stock truck, airflow over the condenser while in traffic or stopped is poor at best...the ECU cycles the hydraulic fan to keep the head pressure between about 325 and 350psi...quite high. It would appear that they originally intended to have a plastic shroud between the radiator and condenser to better channel the fan's airflow through the condenser, but this was left out when the trucks were actually built. I say this because the 2005 shop manual shows a shroud in the diagrams, and also has several steps in the condenser removal instructions that say to remove a shroud. A pusher or puller fan on the condenser will help this.

The flapper doors under the dash will sometimes misbehave, and as mentioned previously, can sometimes be fixed by going all the way hot, then all the way cold with the sliders. Sometimes this works for me, sometimes not.

This is an orifice tube system, so the evaporator is only operating under optimal conditions while at or near highway speeds.

Adding a few oz of refrigerant probably also wouldn't hurt....just keep an eye on your high side pressure as you add gas. Add in small amounts, and if the high side pressure starts to creep up stop adding!

Wow! Nice research, thanks for sharing.:rock:

 

[Cruster]

Also, lots of guys remove the air dams in front for esthetics or mods, not realizing that they are significantly slowing air flow through the condenser, cooler, and radiator, especially sitting in traffic. They think that it will make the engine bay cooler and it does but it actually retards air flow through the radiators.

 

[HousTEN]

Also, lots of guys remove the air dams in front for esthetics or mods, not realizing that they are significantly slowing air flow through the condenser, cooler, and radiator, especially sitting in traffic. They think that it will make the engine bay cooler and it does but it actually retards air flow through the radiators.

Are you talking about those two black plastic "flaps" on either side of the inside of the grille? With those removed, the air will take the path of least resistance which is to go around either side of the condenser and radiator and into the engine bay. Some air will find it's way through the heat exchanger stack, but not much.

A very effective mod would be to remove those black plastic things, and fit sheetmetal between the radiator and headlights to force all the air from the grille through the radiator.