Amp and Sub Install, Wiring Codes.

[azpyroguy]

Here are some pics of the new amp and sub that I installed, along with the wiring info in case anyone cares to do it themselves. :rock:

2006 RAM SRT10, replace stock sub amp, with new better, more powerful unit.
Wiring Codes for plug under drivers seat.

Red = 12v Pos (allways hot)

Black = 12v Neg

Pink/Yellow = This is supposed to be the remote turn on, but when radio is on, its 12.5volts, and when its off its about 11volts, so I had source another wire under the dash for remote turn on... behind the e-brake pedal is a group of wires, one of them is PINK, that is a ignition hot wire, that I used for my remote turn on... so the amp turns on whenever the car is running.. not ideal.. but best I could do.

Gray/Orange - Speaker Level + (SUB from deck/EQ)
Green/Orange - Speaker Level - (SUB) from deck/EQ)

The other 4 wires, in the middle of the connector go to the stock sub, which was a dual voice coil, and I am not using, as I replaced with a single 10 guage, wire from my Mono Alpine MRD-300 Amp, to a Alpine Type R-10, dual voice coil sub, that I wired in series (dual 4 ohm coils)

Caveats:

The front seats are welded together in middle under center console, which was a PIA!!! to work with... had to remove the center console mostly and unbolt all 8 bolts that held down both seats, and tip back the seat. The rear bolts were son-of-b's to break loose!!! Broke 2 sockets, 1 ratchet, and a 3/8 impact would not break loose... took me like 3 hours to remove the 4 bolts, along with various colorful metaphors...

PS - you dont need to remove the center console between seats (I learned this the hard way!!), just remove the carbon fiber cover up front, its held down with 4 snap clips, be carefule when removing!!! then under that are 3 bolts that hold that piece to the floor, once you have that up, and the 8 bolts removed you can tip the entire seat set back. Dont forget to unplug the wires from beneath both seats!!!

Here are the pics:

 

[Texas Yellow Fever]

How much better is the sound?

 

[azpyroguy]

The difference in the bass is night and day, I actually had to turn down the bass on the deck because it was too much.

I failed to mention that the Alpine sub is a deep sub, so I had to clearance the bottom of the inside of the stock box (there is a center stand off that I cut off), I then also had to make a trim ring out of 3/4" MDF to provide the depth that I needed.

I used the Alpine Sub and Amp because I had them left over from a previous system I installed...

 

[silverqc]

do you still have your stock head unit

 

[Get Bit]

Great information. I have a 10" JL W3 out of my Lightning, would the stock Amp push it? it only needs about 150W RMS. I am sure I would have to build a trim ring, etc. I just wonder how much that factory amp is pushing or if that would be a waste of time. :dontknow:

 

[azpyroguy]

do you still have your stock head unit

Yep, I retained the use of my stock head unit.

Scott.

 

[azpyroguy]

Great information. I have a 10" JL W3 out of my Lightning, would the stock Amp push it? it only needs about 150W RMS. I am sure I would have to build a trim ring, etc. I just wonder how much that factory amp is pushing or if that would be a waste of time. :dontknow:

I tried running my Alpine sub with the stock amp... and it SUCKED!! the bass was muddy, and maybe only was making about 75w per channel since the stock amp is not mono, it has mono inputs, but 2 channel outputs, the sub just flopped around.

My alpine is pushing about 300 to my sub now...now the bass is nice and tight.

I also lowered the gain on the Alpine amp to -6db, to help with evening out the systems bass, and then upped the bass on the deck to +6 so I could get more midbass from the stock mids/highs, and not be overpowered by the subbass.

I've got a spare MRD-300 available.. which I might be willing to sell if anyone is interested.