Anybody have specs on the stock stereo system?

[ViperTruck2933]

Continuous power rating of our amp/speakers?

If not, what about the model numbers for the speakers/amp?

 

[Cablefed]

The stock setup is as follows:

The stock head unit feeds a high level input out of the rear channel into a 7 channel amp under the dash in the glove comparment area (Bad setup to start with). From there the amp feeds 7 crossovered signals to the door, dash, and rear speakers. From the five channel amp another signal is sent to the sub amp under the center storage compartment under the seat for the sub. Both amps have seperate power feeds and remote turn on leads.

From looking at the amps the five channel amp under the dash can't be pushing more than 20 watts RMS to each speaker and thats on the high level. The sub amp is probably right around 30 watts RMS to the sub.

The speakers are labeled as Infinity speakers but are made with paper for the cone and a rubber/poly surround. I assume Infinity used the cheapest speakers they make for our application.

All in all the setup in the truck is crap if your an audiophile. The only component in the entire setup worth keeping is the head unit. I pulled everthing out and rewired my truck from the headunit on using a two channel amp to the dash and door and another amp for the sub in a custom ensclosure. The rear speakers in the RC are hard to hear and are not worth replacing or even turning on.

What else do you need to know???

 

[Roz]

Why is the sub full range? :dontknow:

 

[ViperTruck2933]

I think that'll just about cover it, lol.

I always thought mine sounded pretty decent though. :dontknow:



A co-worker was asking me about the specs and I don't have a clue other than it's a 500 watt system, so I thought I'd ask..

 

[Sharpimage]

Yeah, my door speakers are letting loose and the same goes for the sub.. i
thought that the only amp was under the center seat though? :dontknow:
Anyways, any idea what i should replace the door speakers with? Also, i think
the dash speakers are decient.

Sharpi

 

[Kevan]

The stock setup is as follows:

The stock head unit feeds a high level input out of the rear channel into a 7 channel amp under the dash in the glove comparment area (Bad setup to start with). From there the amp feeds 7 crossovered signals to the door, dash, and rear speakers. From the five channel amp another signal is sent to the sub amp under the center storage compartment under the seat for the sub. Both amps have seperate power feeds and remote turn on leads.

From looking at the amps the five channel amp under the dash can't be pushing more than 20 watts RMS to each speaker and thats on the high level. The sub amp is probably right around 30 watts RMS to the sub.

The speakers are labeled as Infinity speakers but are made with paper for the cone and a rubber/poly surround. I assume Infinity used the cheapest speakers they make for our application.

All in all the setup in the truck is crap if your an audiophile. The only component in the entire setup worth keeping is the head unit. I pulled everthing out and rewired my truck from the headunit on using a two channel amp to the dash and door and another amp for the sub in a custom ensclosure. The rear speakers in the RC are hard to hear and are not worth replacing or even turning on.

What else do you need to know???

You forgot one thing:

- The clock on the RB4 is smaller than your average digital watch.

 

[GILMO'S10]

The stock setup is as follows:

The stock head unit feeds a high level input out of the rear channel into a 7 channel amp under the dash in the glove comparment area (Bad setup to start with). From there the amp feeds 7 crossovered signals to the door, dash, and rear speakers. From the five channel amp another signal is sent to the sub amp under the center storage compartment under the seat for the sub. Both amps have seperate power feeds and remote turn on leads.

From looking at the amps the five channel amp under the dash can't be pushing more than 20 watts RMS to each speaker and thats on the high level. The sub amp is probably right around 30 watts RMS to the sub.

The speakers are labeled as Infinity speakers but are made with paper for the cone and a rubber/poly surround. I assume Infinity used the cheapest speakers they make for our application.

All in all the setup in the truck is crap if your an audiophile. The only component in the entire setup worth keeping is the head unit. I pulled everthing out and rewired my truck from the headunit on using a two channel amp to the dash and door and another amp for the sub in a custom ensclosure. The rear speakers in the RC are hard to hear and are not worth replacing or even turning on.

What else do you need to know???

WELL THAT PRETTY MUCH SAYS IT ALL.I GUESS I'M GOING TO THROW THE PIECE OF SHIT AWAY AND BUY SOMETHING NICE.OR COULD YOU JUST WIRE IT UP IN A DIFFERENT WAY?MORE AMPS OR REPLACE WHAT YOU GOT?I HAVE BEEN THINKING OF UPGRADING MY SYSTEM.:rock:

 

[Venom Power]

My stock set up is as follows...

GONE!

After not feeling happy with the stock woofer and a blown whatchamacallit in the compartment under the center seat Ifigured it was time for a major change. I dunno where they figure 518 watts. Infinity should be ashamed of themselves placing their name on paper speakers. The RB4 head unit isn't bad, but it was changed too. The only concern I had was not being able to use the steering wheel control with my new head unit. But I did find a way.... The PAC SWI-X. Your local stereo shop should know about this device. The link is below.

http://www.pac-audio.com/products/productsCatagory.asp?mmSearch=Steering Wheel Interface

After finding this I wasted no time in upgrading the sound system.

 

[Cablefed]

Here is what I recommend for good sound on a tight budget. For those that are able to install their own equipment you will save even more.

Most Circuit City stores and Best Buy stores steer clear of any system that is marked Bose, Infinity, Rockford Fosgate, etc. etc.. The techs and shop managers find those cars to in depth to work on and require more know how about how the system is wired from stock to transition over to a new setup. I've spent a few hours tracing wires on diagrams and figuring out the best way to put in better sound while using most of the stock wiring while not have to cut into any of the stock wiring and still adding in aftermarket components.

I recommend keeping the stock head unit as most of you guys have Nav systems and would like to keep that feature. The RB4 is made by harmon kardon and teh RB1 is made by Alpine so both units have good internal parts to produce good sound. I went with an RB1 so I could add an IPOD and keep my steering wheel controls and most important keep the install low key and stock looking.

I recommend replacing the dash and door speakers with a set of component speakers that have an external crossover network. The crossover network can be hidden in the center console where the sub amp currently is. Plan on spending $200.00 - 400.00 for a good set. You can go as big as 6 1/2 on the woofer as adaptors from Metra are available to make them fit. Currently there is 6x9's in the door. You can replace the 6x9 but it won't sound as good as a seperate component setup. Spend some good money in this area as this is where all your highs and mids will come from. I recommend the polk Momo setup: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zr7n2GEgt5F/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=410&I=107MMC6500

Now you need a Sub for your lows. I tried using the stock box with an aftermarket sub and it won't work. The stock box does not have enough air space to accomodate a sub that will produce lows at a decent volume. I tried 3 different speakers before I decided to go with a whole new box all together. You can keep your stock box for when you sell the truck you can sell it on e-bay to help offset your cost of the new system. For the lows I recommend one box and one box only.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zr7n2G...earch=Kicker+VENDORID206&SearchDisplay=Kicker

This is a single 10 inch sub that has perfect response from 20hz to 150hz. Its a bit pricy but its very functional, fits perfect behind the passenger seat, and has a 2 ohm capability. You can buy a cheaper setup but may have to sacrafice quality, size, and sound.

Thats it for speakers. You don't need anything else. No centers or rears unless you have a QC then you will need rears. Some ask why not more speakers, well the rears can't be heard in an RC period, why waste the money? The center channel does nothing for balancing the system and will require more money, components, and wiring for very little difference in sound quality.

Now onto Amps you will need two amps. One to drive the sub and one to drive the component speakers. Here your on your own as price for either amp can be cheap or mid quality. You will need a sub amp that has a low pass crossover for the sub so you don't have to add a physical coil to the sub for a crossover. Plan on spending $150.00-300.00 for a sub amp. You will need an amp that is 2 ohm stable for the sub and has a mono output since your driving only one sub. You will also need a good two channel amp for the components up front. This amp should push around 75 watts X2 RMS and does not need to have any special features since the crossovers that come with the components will take care of the correct frequencies for the front speakers. Look to spend $200.00 to $400.00 for this amp.

I got to get back to work, but I will draw up the wiring diagram to integrate all of this into stock wiring and what harnesses to use and cables you will need. All of this may seem extensive but its really not. Stay tuned!!

 

[jarero]

Cablefed....

Any update on this? I have been anxiously awaiting that info!

Thanks in advance.

 

[Kevan]

Two other notes:

- Harmon/Kardon has ZERO customer support for the RB4. They build it, but they offer NO support for it whatsoever.
They will tell you to contact the dealer, which is like asking a 6 yr. old to run your particle accelerator.

- Crutchfield = reputable, but overpriced. A quick Google search using the desired model number will find you a MUCH better deal.

 

[wannarace?]

I like to use sounddomain.com. Their products are usually cheaper than crutchfield.

 

[JR_PRO]

I have seen the stock OEM Infinity amps out of our trucks on ebay for very cheap. Is it possible to us another identical amp to our set-up may be using it to run the rears or just the sub? Would be a cheap alternative but don't know how hard it would be to wire up.

Thanks!

 

[Cablefed]

I have to draw up a diagram with all the components and harnesses so it will have to wait till next week. I run a nightclub and have been busy this week with stuff going on. I promise I will get er dun....Cheers

 

[jarero]

I have to draw up a diagram with all the components and harnesses so it will have to wait till next week. I run a nightclub and have been busy this week with stuff going on. I promise I will get er dun....Cheers

Thanks cablefed, looking forward to it! BTW, does this nightclub have a brass pole:rock: ?

 

[Cablefed]

No but my basement does!