Billet flex plate for 48re??

will do man, been meaning to do it for awhile now, so will get on it and see what all we need for info and will contact one of ya'll or see if I can take some off outnumbereds ride
 
I need this info

Measure from the edge of the seal
(Not the output shaft)
to the centerline of the rear u-joint.

**Please do this at ride height.
The car can be lifted under the differential but make sure it has the weight on the rear springs**
To properly measure the rear end yoke, first determine if the yoke has (2) tabs that the rear joint will sit-in between or if there is not tabs (tabs are in the picture above) or if it has a flat plate.

Be very careful with this measurement. The size changes in increments of 1/16(1-1/16|1-1/8|1-3/26)
 

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Getting mine finished up in the next day or two, going with solid u-joints and a billet yoke and straps. I'll get you the exact measurements Tony. Hopefully I can run my 11.5 this weekend, got to keep the pressure on Santeen before PCB.
 
Getting mine finished up in the next day or two, going with solid u-joints and a billet yoke and straps. I'll get you the exact measurements Tony. Hopefully I can run my 11.5 this weekend, got to keep the pressure on Santeen before PCB.

:D:D:D:rock:

you may have him sweating:p
 
Tony, it looks like they're getting you the measurments already. A carbon one would be really cool and light but how reliable considering the length?
 
Be very careful with this measurement. The size changes in increments of 1/16(1-1/16|1-1/8|1-3/26)

Tony, where are you getting your tools and Measuring Tapes at.... :dontknow:

Just asking because I checked and None of mine are broken down into 26th of an inch measurements... :D

Yea, I know you ment 1-3/16 but I just couldn't pass it up...... LOL
 
Getting mine finished up in the next day or two, going with solid u-joints and a billet yoke and straps. I'll get you the exact measurements Tony. Hopefully I can run my 11.5 this weekend, got to keep the pressure on Santeen before PCB.
You need to slow down. Aint no way I'm catching you before Panama. :D

:D:D:D:rock:

you may have him sweating:p

Yes he does.
 
Hey! Santeen... He's not the only one who should have u sweating!!!
 
I think I might be reaching the limits of my current set-up, next would be forging the engine, but I'm sticking with the spray. Not bad for about $6k in mods.
 
That would be cool if someone makes one pice driveshaft .
I don't have a lots of mods but I would still maybe go for one . But would we need a driveshaft loop for one pice .
 
K guys.... I sent the measurements to see what happens. Hopefully hear something on the billet flexplate for our qc
 
K fellas! Keeping u up to date as I said I would. Made contact this morning and they are currently working on the specs. Fabricator says he gonna make it happen.
 
By the way the flexplate that the fabricator currently makes is sfi certified.
 
Built transmission + H liking to get into it = hard shifts = cracked flexplate. Torqued to spec (I'm a stickler on this). Did the same with a fueled 7.3l diesel towing 12k lbs. SFI replacement did the trick there - no issues since.

How many people here have cracked theirs? Are they really that weak, or Harold was yours a bolt torque issue?

I'm just curious. Also, would these be SFI approved, with sticker and all?
 
I have been checking on getting a better than stock flexplate for our truck and was referred to Reactor Products - Products.

I called them today and the guy said he could make the flexplate. I will be sending him my old, cracked one soon and will get a price. I'll let you guys know what happens and the price as soon as I find out anything.
 
:rock::rock::rock: Thanks!

I have been checking on getting a better than stock flexplate for our truck and was referred to Reactor Products - Products.

I called them today and the guy said he could make the flexplate. I will be sending him my old, cracked one soon and will get a price. I'll let you guys know what happens and the price as soon as I find out anything.
 

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