Billet main caps...not fitting

Blakewilder

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Anybody know if these things are supposed to give the machinist fits??? They are from pro gram....he has to line bore em and hone em ....and he's not getting my stuff done because of this....any input?
 
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Blakewilder said:
Anybody know if these things are supposed to give the machinist fits??? They are from pro gram....he has to line bore em and hone em ....and he's not getting my stuff done because of this....any input?

make sure that they carefully and correctly mount your front cover to the shortblock when you get to that stage. if they do not allign precisely then that can cause the oil pump to fail.
 
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Blake are you saying they wont fit into the block??
they are going to need an align hone to get them sized right.
Your Machinist should know this:dontknow:
 
Yea kind of standard procedure with these Blake. Mine had the same done when they went on.
 
Yeah, he knows exactly what is going on and he told me it is normal but to shave .005 (50 thousandths) off of a piece that I thought was supposed to fit sounds like alot.... he has it under control but Its taking time and I want my TRUCK BACK!!!!Im just losing my mind!
 
Unfortunatly stuff like this always take way more time than it should. I know, I have been there.

Bill.
 
Blakewilder said:
Yeah, he knows exactly what is going on and he told me it is normal but to shave .005 (50 thousandths) off of a piece that I thought was supposed to fit sounds like alot.... he has it under control but Its taking time and I want my TRUCK BACK!!!!Im just losing my mind!

Damn straight! Did you ask Pro Gram about this? Can't imagine that the variance would be so great that they'd have to build them THAT big.

Oh well, there's something else I get to forewarn Todd about...
 
all main caps MUST be line bored & honed to keep the contricity intact. you cant bolt a cap on and it will be round with the block & on the same axis as the rest of the caps. the .050 is for the "roundness" and to keep the crank straight & perpindicular to the bore centerline when the machine work is performed
 
BOOMER said:
all main caps MUST be line bored & honed to keep the contricity intact. you cant bolt a cap on and it will be round with the block & on the same axis as the rest of the caps. the .050 is for the "roundness" and to keep the crank straight & perpindicular to the bore centerline when the machine work is performed

The crowd gives a collective "Ahhhh".:D
 
John Hennessey said:
make sure that they carefully and correctly mount your front cover to the shortblock when you get to that stage. if they do not allign precisely then that can cause the oil pump to fail.

Does that mean this thing that I have won't work with my billet main caps.
oilpan9.jpg
 
Jack there isn't any issue using a dry sump with billet mains is there? I'm sure I've seen a couple builds with it. Some builders have used an external belt driven oil pump to maintain pressure.

I'd like to see Boomer take a crack at this....maybe he can build a unit that isn't priced through the moon. In the meantime I'm using the poor man's dry sump.
 
womsterr said:
Jack there isn't any issue using a dry sump with billet mains is there? I'm sure I've seen a couple builds with it. Some builders have used an external belt driven oil pump to maintain pressure.

I'd like to see Boomer take a crack at this....maybe he can build a unit that isn't priced through the moon. In the meantime I'm using the poor man's dry sump.

The long device bolted to the side of the pan is the pump. Scavenge and pressure combined in one long assembly.
The 2 piece pan is O-ringed where it comes together and O-ringed to the block. It takes a mill with a large table as the pan is so long with the 10 cyl motor. It is difficult to machine from what I was told.
 
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Am i right in saying that the sole purpose of the dry sump oiling sstem is for pre-startup lubrication??Are there any other lubrication benefits such as hard cornering etc.....
 
Blakewilder said:
Am i right in saying that the sole purpose of the dry sump oiling sstem is for pre-startup lubrication??Are there any other lubrication benefits such as hard cornering etc.....

AFAIK, the dry sump does not provide any start-up benefit. It's mission in life is to prevent oil starvation under high G situations. Road racing is where these really shine, as the vehicle sees extremes of lateral plus acceleration/deceleration, where the oil in a typical pan can be forced away from the pickup for extended periods of time.

The poor-man's dry sump (aka accumulator/accusump), does have the startup benefit, and can, for brief periods of time, make up for a dip in oil pressure.

That about right, ape man?
 
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Thanks....I know nothing about em....appreciate the help. So, the real one doesnt pressurize just before startup? The cheap one does???Something sound wrong there?? Im never gonna roa race....so I guess the cheap one is for me!
 
Blakewilder said:
Thanks....I know nothing about em....appreciate the help. So, the real one doesnt pressurize just before startup? The cheap one does???Something sound wrong there?? Im never gonna roa race....so I guess the cheap one is for me!

Not so sure that it's unanimous about the startup benefits of the Accusump. Some feel that the modern lubricants do a sufficient job of maintaining a coating on the moving parts to prevent startup wear to a greater degree. But, even if that's the case, having a few extra quarts under pressure on tap can certainly save your bearings from momentary drops in pressure. And hell yeah, it's certainly cheaper.
 
RedRamRules said:
What about pushing the throttle as soon as you turn off your car, would that prevent dry starts?

Juan,
that would not do anything for or to the oiling system. That would put fuel into the cylinders on an older cabburated motor and actually wash the lubrication off the valve guides and cylinder walls. With a FI motor all the fuel is stoped when you turn the key off.
 

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