Black truck care ??

Zaino process...

IMG_0043.jpg
 
1- Mr. clean car wash kit, extra soap and filter, also some good mits

2- A sh!tload of soft microfiber terricloths, also some aplicator pads (I apply everything by hand)

3- Mothers or Meguiars clay bar kit and extra spray (if you drop the clay bar on the ground, you throw it away and buy another one)

4- Meguiars cleaner wax (has a very low cutting polish in it, it also seals and shines well, and so smooth you'll trip)

5- Meguiars Deep Crystal carnuba wax (this seals and shines even better and now it's even smoother than step 4)

6- Turtle Wax Ice synthetic spray detailer for in between washes

7- Some music to jam out to while you bust your azz all day long

8- Look to see results like this
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34671

9- Drive it around and show off your hard work

10- Enjoy!:rock: :burnout: :congrats: :rock:

All this stuff you can get from your local Walmart.
 
WOW alright thanks for all the info , i need to get all set up for that then, when do you use the buffer, and i cant wait to see Jeff in his Borat suit,,:( :burnout: :D
 
If you use a buffer I recommend that you use a "random orbital" rather than a spinning one. They will not burn through the paint...spinning buffers can damage paint without care.
 
Well since I detail cars as some twisted hobby...I would like to tell you about the "new" stuff I have been using. Bar none, this wax has outlasted anything I have used to date in the Florida Sun. It's easy to use, drys well in the humidity, and has left our black vehicles looking great without washings.
I always used the NXT, however after about two weeks in the FL sun...it would start to break down.

This is my new detailing wax, and I am extremely happy with the shine, ease of use, durability, non powdering/non white finish on removal, and the depth it gives on a black/dark vehicle.

http://www.eagleone.com/pages/products/core_nanowax.asp
 
NBT said:
Well since I detail cars as some twisted hobby...I would like to tell you about the "new" stuff I have been using. Bar none, this wax has outlasted anything I have used to date in the Florida Sun. It's easy to use, drys well in the humidity, and has left our black vehicles looking great without washings.
I always used the NXT, however after about two weeks in the FL sun...it would start to break down.

This is my new detailing wax, and I am extremely happy with the shine, ease of use, durability, non powdering/non white finish on removal, and the depth it gives on a black/dark vehicle.

http://www.eagleone.com/pages/products/core_nanowax.asp
Click to expand...

I'm going to wait for Kenny to do my truck,He has the talent and patience to make it look outstanding!!:rock:
 
1qksrt said:
I'm going to wait for Kenny to do my truck,He has the talent and patience to make it look outstanding!!:rock:
Click to expand...

I agree... Kenny knows his shit! :rock:

But... :D We differ on wax products (for black trucks).... I will explain in the morning (just passing thru before bed and saw this thread. :eek: )

Tah... :p
 
O.K. As a professional painter of custom vehicles including ours I will agree with most of what has been said. Here's where I recommend a different approach.
Clay bar is neccessary, but only once then not for a great many months after if you keep the truck waxed properly with a high quality wax. The clay bar actually will after repeated use make the clear thin. You do actually remove the slightest shaving of clear in this process and that's with the fine clay. There are different grades of clay and some will actually do what 3000 grit color sanding will. You want the finest if there are options. You do follow with a sealer then wax and 3m, Mother's Zaino, and the Eagle One Nano Wax are the best in that order IMO.
The buffer should NOT be a random orbital and should be a normal single action rotation buffer. Makita, Milwaukee, Porter Cable. You can tear your paint up not knowing the buffer and the compunds involved and is best left to a pro. You are shaving thousandths of a mil. of paint in the buffing process as well! A professional job will net you show car results on a factory paint job minus factory "orange peel". Most scratches you see will be totally removed and you have an awesome distinctness of image (DOI) when looking at an image reflecting off the cars paint.
ONLY wash with DAWN to remove the earlier wax coat prior to a clay bar or such. DO NOT USE IT FOR NORMAL WASHES!!! IT does remove your wax and unless you plan to wax every wash ( hope not) then you are leaving your paint vulnerable to the elements ( salt,sand,water deposits, bugs,bird shat) Wax should be built up as a prtective barrier from the elements mentioned and the UVs from our sun.
I recommend a wax every 4 washes to my customers and rarely do I have one come back wanting a buff job unless the car's finsh was neglected or maintained but with an inferior wax.

ALWAYS wash and wax in the shade or garage and never in the sun!!!!
Always apply and remove wax in sections as an example:
do top half of or door, then remove
do bottom half of door, then remove.
split the hood into 1/4s and wax/remove.
etc,etc.
YOur washing and maintaining of your dark colored /black vehicle will be mcuh easier and stay cleaner a little longer with good paint maintenance as well as preserving you factory paint for many years to come.

As a proud owner of a 10 look at the paint of fellow member and your own, then look around town ata similar year Ram adn you'll notice the difference in reflection, gloss and overall appearance. We had the same paint used on our trucks as did they, but most never maintain theirs as they are not considered worthy since they are work trucks or just JOE BLOW and his grocery getting truck. They may routinely wash their trucks and an occasional vacuum, but more than likely never seen a coat of wax, yet any sort of paint maintenance program.
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
O.K. As a professional painter of custom vehicles including ours I will agree with most of what has been said. Here's where I recommend a different approach.
Clay bar is neccessary, but only once then not for a great many months after if you keep the truck waxed properly with a high quality wax. The clay bar actually will after repeated use make the clear thin. You do actually remove the slightest shaving of clear in this process and that's with the fine clay. There are different grades of clay and some will actually do what 3000 grit color sanding will. You want the finest if there are options. You do follow with a sealer then wax and 3m, Mother's Zaino, and the Eagle One Nano Wax are the best in that order IMO.
The buffer should NOT be a random orbital and should be a normal single action rotation buffer. Makita, Milwaukee, Porter Cable. You can tear your paint up not knowing the buffer and the compunds involved and is best left to a pro. You are shaving thousandths of a mil. of paint in the buffing process as well! A professional job will net you show car results on a factory paint job minus factory "orange peel". Most scratches you see will be totally removed and you have an awesome distinctness of image (DOI) when looking at an image reflecting off the cars paint.
ONLY wash with DAWN to remove the earlier wax coat prior to a clay bar or such. DO NOT USE IT FOR NORMAL WASHES!!! IT does remove your wax and unless you plan to wax every wash ( hope not) then you are leaving your paint vulnerable to the elements ( salt,sand,water deposits, bugs,bird shat) Wax should be built up as a prtective barrier from the elements mentioned and the UVs from our sun.
I recommend a wax every 4 washes to my customers and rarely do I have one come back wanting a buff job unless the car's finsh was neglected or maintained but with an inferior wax.

ALWAYS wash and wax in the shade or garage and never in the sun!!!!
Always apply and remove wax in sections as an example:
do top half of or door, then remove
do bottom half of door, then remove.
split the hood into 1/4s and wax/remove.
etc,etc.
YOur washing and maintaining of your dark colored /black vehicle will be mcuh easier and stay cleaner a little longer with good paint maintenance as well as preserving you factory paint for many years to come.

As a proud owner of a 10 look at the paint of fellow member and your own, then look around town ata similar year Ram adn you'll notice the difference in reflection, gloss and overall appearance. We had the same paint used on our trucks as did they, but most never maintain theirs as they are not considered worthy since they are work trucks or just JOE BLOW and his grocery getting truck. They may routinely wash their trucks and an occasional vacuum, but more than likely never seen a coat of wax, yet any sort of paint maintenance program.
Click to expand...
:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
Shit I'm outta wind and my fangers hurt! Can't wait till you can just tell this machine what you want it to type. Ever seen Wild Hogs where the nerdy guy ( forgot his name) where he was in a coffe shop or restaraunt trying to get the attention of the hot ass dark haired girl playing on her computer? Well he created a voice command program for his computer and he was showing it off by asking it to open the internet, and it did, then he mentioned to the sexy lady he was trying to hook up with about having to check alternative specs. Well the computer heard his command as looked up " Alternative Sex" and replied back with pop-up after pop-up upon pop-up of "Spank Granny.com", "BArnyard Lovers", "Goat Sex.com" etc. until the whole group of fols in the restaraunt left the building including the hottie. Probably had to see it to be funny but you could imagine if we had that shit and it misunderstood what we said?
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Shit I'm outta wind and my fangers hurt! Can't wait till you can just tell this machine what you want it to type. Ever seen Wild Hogs where the nerdy guy ( forgot his name) where he was in a coffe shop or restaraunt trying to get the attention of the hot ass dark haired girl playing on her computer? Well he created a voice command program for his computer and he was showing it off by asking it to open the internet, and it did, then he mentioned to the sexy lady he was trying to hook up with about having to check alternative specs. Well the computer heard his command as looked up " Alternative Sex" and replied back with pop-up after pop-up upon pop-up of "Spank Granny.com", "BArnyard Lovers", "Goat Sex.com" etc. until the whole group of fols in the restaraunt left the building including the hottie. Probably had to see it to be funny but you could imagine if we had that shit and it misunderstood what we said?
Click to expand...

Stinker would just be posting pictures of nekkid sheep all the time. :dontknow: :eek:
 
Damnit how could I have fogotten the SHEEP? Surpise butt sects with a naked sheep is the way to lose Virginity in Arkansas!
 
3m hand glaze is the SHIT!! I use all their pro series paint protection stuff

first this:
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-perfect-it-ii-foam-polishing-pad-glaze.html

then this:
http://www.shop3m.com/imperial-hand-glaze.html

followed by this:
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-show-car-liquid-wax.html

and this after every wash:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtmXfX4XMaEV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--

I know the swirl remover and the hand glaze contain some of the same stuff, but I like to consider it a double coat, I usually wait a day to let the naptha oil sink into the paint. it definately pulls the black back out if it was fading.

I usually only do the full monty every spring to get rid of all the stuff that collects on the paint a year since the truck is a daily driver when I am not on the bike.

hell just the other day I had a guy walk up to me at a gas station and said "the truck is sick, what year is it a 2010?" I chuckled and said no it's an 05, I just take pride in my stuff.
 
Last edited:
VENOMOUS1 said:
O.K. As a professional painter of custom vehicles including ours I will agree with most of what has been said. Here's where I recommend a different approach.
Clay bar is neccessary, but only once then not for a great many months after if you keep the truck waxed properly with a high quality wax. The clay bar actually will after repeated use make the clear thin. You do actually remove the slightest shaving of clear in this process and that's with the fine clay. There are different grades of clay and some will actually do what 3000 grit color sanding will. You want the finest if there are options. You do follow with a sealer then wax and 3m, Mother's Zaino, and the Eagle One Nano Wax are the best in that order IMO.
The buffer should NOT be a random orbital and should be a normal single action rotation buffer. Makita, Milwaukee, Porter Cable. You can tear your paint up not knowing the buffer and the compunds involved and is best left to a pro. You are shaving thousandths of a mil. of paint in the buffing process as well! A professional job will net you show car results on a factory paint job minus factory "orange peel". Most scratches you see will be totally removed and you have an awesome distinctness of image (DOI) when looking at an image reflecting off the cars paint.
ONLY wash with DAWN to remove the earlier wax coat prior to a clay bar or such. DO NOT USE IT FOR NORMAL WASHES!!! IT does remove your wax and unless you plan to wax every wash ( hope not) then you are leaving your paint vulnerable to the elements ( salt,sand,water deposits, bugs,bird shat) Wax should be built up as a prtective barrier from the elements mentioned and the UVs from our sun.
I recommend a wax every 4 washes to my customers and rarely do I have one come back wanting a buff job unless the car's finsh was neglected or maintained but with an inferior wax.

ALWAYS wash and wax in the shade or garage and never in the sun!!!!
Always apply and remove wax in sections as an example:
do top half of or door, then remove
do bottom half of door, then remove.
split the hood into 1/4s and wax/remove.
etc,etc.
YOur washing and maintaining of your dark colored /black vehicle will be mcuh easier and stay cleaner a little longer with good paint maintenance as well as preserving you factory paint for many years to come.

As a proud owner of a 10 look at the paint of fellow member and your own, then look around town ata similar year Ram adn you'll notice the difference in reflection, gloss and overall appearance. We had the same paint used on our trucks as did they, but most never maintain theirs as they are not considered worthy since they are work trucks or just JOE BLOW and his grocery getting truck. They may routinely wash their trucks and an occasional vacuum, but more than likely never seen a coat of wax, yet any sort of paint maintenance program.
Click to expand...


VENOMOUS you think the meguires nano tech wax is good? I think it works great on my truck. The only thing I've noticed is a TON of small scratches on my truck. It almost looks like it was buffed at some point, not sure. I'll post some pics later of what I'm talking about. Do you recommend me taking it to a proffesional to have it buffed? You only notice them up close and in direct sunlight, otherwise the truck looks spotless.
 
Thays some good info, thank you, i wax with zymbol and it looks good just wondered how to get that no fine line, nicks and scrathes wet look i have seen in so many pics on here:rock: !!!
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
O.K. As a professional painter of custom vehicles including ours I will agree with most of what has been said. Here's where I recommend a different approach.
Clay bar is neccessary, but only once then not for a great many months after if you keep the truck waxed properly with a high quality wax. The clay bar actually will after repeated use make the clear thin. You do actually remove the slightest shaving of clear in this process and that's with the fine clay. There are different grades of clay and some will actually do what 3000 grit color sanding will. You want the finest if there are options. You do follow with a sealer then wax and 3m, Mother's Zaino, and the Eagle One Nano Wax are the best in that order IMO.
The buffer should NOT be a random orbital and should be a normal single action rotation buffer. Makita, Milwaukee, Porter Cable. You can tear your paint up not knowing the buffer and the compunds involved and is best left to a pro. You are shaving thousandths of a mil. of paint in the buffing process as well! A professional job will net you show car results on a factory paint job minus factory "orange peel". Most scratches you see will be totally removed and you have an awesome distinctness of image (DOI) when looking at an image reflecting off the cars paint.
ONLY wash with DAWN to remove the earlier wax coat prior to a clay bar or such. DO NOT USE IT FOR NORMAL WASHES!!! IT does remove your wax and unless you plan to wax every wash ( hope not) then you are leaving your paint vulnerable to the elements ( salt,sand,water deposits, bugs,bird shat) Wax should be built up as a prtective barrier from the elements mentioned and the UVs from our sun.
I recommend a wax every 4 washes to my customers and rarely do I have one come back wanting a buff job unless the car's finsh was neglected or maintained but with an inferior wax.

ALWAYS wash and wax in the shade or garage and never in the sun!!!!
Always apply and remove wax in sections as an example:
do top half of or door, then remove
do bottom half of door, then remove.
split the hood into 1/4s and wax/remove.
etc,etc.
YOur washing and maintaining of your dark colored /black vehicle will be mcuh easier and stay cleaner a little longer with good paint maintenance as well as preserving you factory paint for many years to come.

As a proud owner of a 10 look at the paint of fellow member and your own, then look around town ata similar year Ram adn you'll notice the difference in reflection, gloss and overall appearance. We had the same paint used on our trucks as did they, but most never maintain theirs as they are not considered worthy since they are work trucks or just JOE BLOW and his grocery getting truck. They may routinely wash their trucks and an occasional vacuum, but more than likely never seen a coat of wax, yet any sort of paint maintenance program.
Click to expand...


W0W thank you !!! for the post :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
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