Blow By.....

[Bone]

Bone, the amount of metal in the dome, to me is a huge factor...the more metal there, the more heat resistant it becomes. That additional 1/8 or 1/4 inch is vital...IMO.

No question. When Dave at Roe Racing showed me the Diamonds next to the stockers during the Yellow Sidewinder build, I was hooked. Even more impressive in person. Plus, tremendous oiling qualities to them.

If anyone is interested in looking at one in person, I can mail one to you.

 

[1sicponi]

Prof, This guy Rottenronie was the best. You did ask for other then v10.
Blow by sucks. Little valve seeling rings, Hole in a piston (knock), Rings. Leak down test is good. Old school -- Compression test works also. With out oil - valves or seals. With oil - rings.
Wish you well Prof.

 

[Prof]

This thread is very helpful...I think there are a lot of people reading and lurking that have this issue.

All of the comments have been helpful...my truck goes to St. Louis next week for forged rods and pistons...I do think this will be a solution...but the concept of a recirculation pressure relief system has me thinking...that could be very dangerous.

Thanks all...

 

[TNVIPER]

I had my hood up this morning with the engine running. Temp was about 35. There was a fog blowing out of each the vent filters...would this be normal?

 

[Prof]

That was the first indication in my engine. Soon after, the pressure pushing the mist out started pushing oil out of the breathers...

There just seems to be a lot of condensation developed by some of our engines...does that spark any ideas in someone's mind?

 

[mopower1958]

That was the first indication in my engine. Soon after, the pressure pushing the mist out started pushing oil out of the breathers...

There just seems to be a lot of condensation developed by some of our engines...does that spark any ideas in someone's mind?

Moisture condensation or oil vapor? Is it milky looking? If it is milky looking touch it to your tongue and see if it has a sweet taste like coolant. If not it could be from cranking the engine cold and not letting it warm up all the way which will cause moisture to collect in the upper parts of the valve cover and breather system. If it is excessive oil vapor then it is caused by compression leaking past the rings. Most blown applications which are purpose built run more ring gap than a naturally aspirated piston due to excessive heat causing the ring gap to close up. Usually around .006 to .008 inch more. IF it is excessive vapor then you have either stacked the ring gaps from heat or damaged a piston.

 

[TNVIPER]

Moisture condensation or oil vapor? Is it milky looking? If it is milky looking touch it to your tongue and see if it has a sweet taste like coolant. ............................ IF it is excessive vapor then you have either stacked the ring gaps from heat or damaged a piston.

Oil is not milky looking and I have monitored the coolent level for the past 2 months....what would be excessive vapor? The motor was cold when I noticed this and it was a cold outside....exhaust had fog coming from it at the time which is normal when motor is cold and it is cold outside..

 

[Prof]

...stacked the ring gaps...

I think that this is the most likely diagnosis...again from the additional heat from the FI and use of the oem pistons with oem gap...those pistons have precious little metal in their dome...they are just not going to dissipate much heat...which in my mind leads to ring damage...

 

[TNVIPER]

I think that this is the most likely diagnosis...again from the additional heat from the FI and use of the oem pistons with oem gap...those pistons have precious little metal in their dome...they are just not going to dissipate much heat...which in my mind leads to ring damage...

I have forged pistons...dome looked to be 2-3 times as thick as stock..

 

[Prof]

I have forged pistons...dome looked to be 2-3 times as thick as stock..

I am very close to being positive that your situation will keep the blow-by from happening...at least that is my main reason for getting the forged pistons and rods...I am open to other input, but I think that extra metal in the piston dome is key to solving this issue.

 

[kyle's srt10]

This thread is very helpful...I think there are a lot of people reading and lurking that have this issue.

All of the comments have been helpful...my truck goes to St. Louis next week for forged rods and pistons...I do think this will be a solution...but the concept of a recirculation pressure relief system has me thinking...that could be very dangerous.

Thanks all...

I may have to squeeze in there Roy and steal joe for a day or so to tune my Roe and install my centerforce and viper master/slave SORRY:burnout:

 

[Prof]

What is a day or two between friends...be my guest...I am still two months away from being able to get the truck back on the roads up here.

 

[FATJACK]

:toilet: Only when I have a large bowl of Moms chili, bear with me Roy I just could not help myself.

 

[Black1]

Blow By "Who"? :dontknow:

 

[rottenronnie]

I am very close to being positive that your situation will keep the blow-by from happening...at least that is my main reason for getting the forged pistons and rods...I am open to other input, but I think that extra metal in the piston dome is key to solving this issue.

Prof,

Yes, the additional distance of the ring land from the top of the forged piston should help.

I still believe strongly that detonation is the key issue here. If THAT issue isn't addressed, I don't care if the ring/ring land is near the bottom of the skirt, it is only a matter of time. Detonation is an engine killer, period.
I would check with Sean, and get his recommendations regarding a camshaft that will scrub off some of the dynamic cylinder pressure until later in the r.p.m. range when the truck has some speed up. So, a cam with additional duration or overlap (or preferably both) will certainly help the engine through the danger zone.

A more conventional roller lifter design will also help.

When your engine is apart, check for signs of detonation. Have a real close look at the ring lands- The edges will no longer be nice and sharp like they should be, instead they will have rounded off a bit. Also check your spark plugs, rod bearings and piston tops for signs of detonation. Have a look also if, in more extreme cases, bolts on your flywheel and/or harmonic balancer have backed off.

Best of luck,
Ron

 

[Marc T]

I am very close to being positive that your situation will keep the blow-by from happening...at least that is my main reason for getting the forged pistons and rods...I am open to other input, but I think that extra metal in the piston dome is key to solving this issue.

Roy,

Have you tried just cleaning the filters?? If they are supper dirty with oil they will spew oil, If they are clean they will allow air to pass and catch the Goo??

Just a thought, you may have already done it!!:dontknow:

 

[belgiumbarry]

Roy,

Have you tried just cleaning the filters?? If they are supper dirty with oil they will spew oil, If they are clean they will allow air to pass and catch the Goo??

Just a thought, you may have already done it!!:dontknow:

i think Roy wants forged internals, smaller pulley, more boost ... just to get out of his 14 sec club... he's not gonne clean filters....

 

[Prof]

I'm very pleased to be the most powerful and quickest 14 second truck on my block. Big fish, small pond you known...

 

[Marc T]

i think Roy wants forged internals, smaller pulley, more boost ... just to get out of his 14 sec club... he's not gonne clean filters....

Jeeesh!! What was I thinking?? Roy get his hands dirty!!

 

[Prof]

I wondered if you had been drinking...

Ron, I bet that I have had some detonation...plugs seem to be ok, but there is some sparkle on the domes of a couple of pistons.

Roy