Brake issue (Completly stumped)

[texastonka]

UPDATE:

Everything checks out OKAY on the brakes. We pulled the harness off the ABS Module and took it for a drive, no chatter in the pedal! Ordered a new ABS Module, should be in Friday, no SRT modules in stock in Texas. Crossing fingers this is what it is.

Strange issue- when we plugged the computer in to read wheel speed sensors all three read exactly the same at all times no matter what the speed but at a dead stop all three read 3MPH. Believe this is also part of the ABS module issue?

Will fill you in on the fix, so far replaced wheel bearings, brake switch, bled brakes, turned rotors, etc...

 

[BLWNSRT]

UPDATE:

Everything checks out OKAY on the brakes. We pulled the harness off the ABS Module and took it for a drive, no chatter in the pedal! Ordered a new ABS Module, should be in Friday, no SRT modules in stock in Texas. Crossing fingers this is what it is.

Strange issue- when we plugged the computer in to read wheel speed sensors all three read exactly the same at all times no matter what the speed but at a dead stop all three read 3MPH. Believe this is also part of the ABS module issue?

Will fill you in on the fix, so far replaced wheel bearings, brake switch, bled brakes, turned rotors, etc...

I know some of the GM's read 5km/h (3mph approx) at a dead stop so I don't think that is the issue. Are you able to do the solenoid test and system test with the scanner you used? Any codes? It is an abs problem if you disconnected it and the problem stopped.

Just to verify with everything hooked up if you can duplicate the abs kicking in at slow speed if you can see 1 speed different than the others that's the problem ( I've seen this lots on chev blazers and truck) I also had a 05 F150 setting abs codes and other issues the rear sensor in the diff was covered in metal fillings messing up the signal at slow speeds. And my quad cab had a bad rear abs wire so when I hit a bump the abs would kick in, so I added an extra foot of wire since it has a 5" lift.

 

[texastonka]

I know some of the GM's read 5km/h (3mph approx) at a dead stop so I don't think that is the issue. Are you able to do the solenoid test and system test with the scanner you used? Any codes? It is an abs problem if you disconnected it and the problem stopped.

Just to verify with everything hooked up if you can duplicate the abs kicking in at slow speed if you can see 1 speed different than the others that's the problem ( I've seen this lots on chev blazers and truck) I also had a 05 F150 setting abs codes and other issues the rear sensor in the diff was covered in metal fillings messing up the signal at slow speeds. And my quad cab had a bad rear abs wire so when I hit a bump the abs would kick in, so I added an extra foot of wire since it has a 5" lift.

No codes on the scanner. What do you mean by solenoid test and system test?

Yes the issue stopped when we unplugged the module, supposed to have it today to verify that is what it is.

While we were in the PCM we checked and it was not set for tire size. It was blank as if NO tire size was in the PCM, so we set that to the factory size. Seemed like someone was in there before I bought it fiddling around inside the PCM. :dontknow:

 

[BLWNSRT]

No codes on the scanner. What do you mean by solenoid test and system test?

Yes the issue stopped when we unplugged the module, supposed to have it today to verify that is what it is.

While we were in the PCM we checked and it was not set for tire size. It was blank as if NO tire size was in the PCM, so we set that to the factory size. Seemed like someone was in there before I bought it fiddling around inside the PCM. :dontknow:

On our scanners on most vehicles you can do a system test it will activate all the solenoids, valves... Just to make sure there is nothing sticking inside. If you have a good scanner if you graph the speed sensors and slow down and I it pulsates you could see if one sensor is dropping off fr a moment and that would be your problem.

If you have a drb3 program in the tire size I dont think that should be blank. I've never looked at mine so I couldn't tell you.

 

[texastonka]

Well the new ABS Module came in today. Installed it and luckily they tested to see if it worked prior to programming it to my specific VIN, because it DID NOT solve the issue.

This rules out the ABS Module itself. The ABS Motor is working fine. Everything seems to be A-OKAY, yet still have pedal chatter ONLY when the ABS is plugged in. Something is sending a bad signal.

 

[texastonka]

Okay need advice. Went ahead and installed new ABS module. Programmed it. Replaced ALL wheel spped sensors and installed two new hub bearing assemblies. Pedal still rachets back at low speed only. Unplug the ABS modul and no issue.

ANY IDEAS???

 

[texastonka]

On our scanners on most vehicles you can do a system test it will activate all the solenoids, valves... Just to make sure there is nothing sticking inside. If you have a good scanner if you graph the speed sensors and slow down and I it pulsates you could see if one sensor is dropping off fr a moment and that would be your problem.

If you have a drb3 program in the tire size I dont think that should be blank. I've never looked at mine so I couldn't tell you.

Did this procedure this afternoon, no spped sensors are dropping off. Activated the solenoids and everything is good. No codes or issues on the scanner tool.

 

[BLWNSRT]

Okay need advice. Went ahead and installed new ABS module. Programmed it. Replaced ALL wheel spped sensors and installed two new hub bearing assemblies. Pedal still rachets back at low speed only. Unplug the ABS modul and no issue.

ANY IDEAS???

Bad tooth on the tone ring in the diff? Otherwise I dont know being when you unplug the abs the problem stops. If I was close and could see it and drive it I could be more help but I'm not.

 

[texastonka]

Bad tooth on the tone ring in the diff? Otherwise I dont know being when you unplug the abs the problem stops. If I was close and could see it and drive it I could be more help but I'm not.

Going to break open the diff next week when my gasket and Redline gets delivered. Will know about the tone ring then.

Other thought was the brake booster diaphram may have a small leak? My theory is- When large pressure is applied it does not affect it but at slow speeds (under 10mph) the leak is large enough to have the ABS kick in??

Does that idea hold water?:dontknow:

 

[texastonka]

UPDATE:

I appreciate all the input from everyone. I found the issue. The ring gear bolts (x2) wear sheared off, a spider gear was destroyed, R&P was NOT in good shape. Carrier was trashed. Have NO idea how there was no noise coming from the diff and it drove just fine....

Replacing it all- may have to upgrade.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

dodges spider kit now is like $450 or so, if ya need let me know , can do tons better, with even a complete new carrier

 

[BLWNSRT]

Good to hear just had to pinpoint it.

 

[TNVIPER]

dodges spider kit now is like $450 or so, if ya need let me know , can do tons better, with even a complete new carrier

Dang!!!...I gave $50 just 3 yrs ago for a cryoed...:stupido3:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Dang!!!...I gave $50 just 3 yrs ago for a cryoed...:stupido3:

shocked me too, called last week and they have gone nutts on alot of things lately, but thats the price they gave me for the "kit" including the pin, clutches plates, gears, no cryo , I think it was $459?

 

[texastonka]

dodges spider kit now is like $450 or so, if ya need let me know , can do tons better, with even a complete new carrier

Yeah if you don't mind shooting me over a quote I'd appreciate it. I got feelers out all over for some good prices.

Back in my 4x4 days I used Randy's R&P, quoted me Yukon gears with master install kit (less trac loc) $500 with lifetime warranty...

Want a Quaife diff if possible....

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

ya cant install nothing but the factory carrier back in bud, nothing else will fit or work due to tone ring and tone ring size and the c clips