Bump Steer blues....

texastonka

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I have read so many threads on bumpsteer issue on RC lowered trucks my eyes are burning....

Issue is my truck is stock height with 100% stock springs and shocks.

I had a drivers lean issue so I even have brand new front springs from Dodge

I do have poly bushings in the rack & pinion mounts and front control arms

I also have the Caltracs in the rear

Here is the issue, driving down the road, I go over everyday items such as an expansion joint in a bridge...and BOOM the wheel is yanked out of my hand to the left so hard the rearend starts dancing. I am aware of the issue now so when I see something like this in the road I grab ahold and brace myself and slow down, but am very concerned about that one day in the back hill country or on the track a small bump gets past my eyes but not my tire and BOOM I am spinning like a record!

I did just watch a good episode of TRUCKS! making a sport truck out of a ranger and a mustang cobra, and they went into a lot of discussion on bump steer and angles and such. A big factor was the mounts on the rack and pinion.

Do you think the poly bushings may induce the bumpsteer? They were on the truck when I got it, should I try the factory bushing or has this been done?

If there is a bumpsteer solution (even if it means LOWERING the truck) let me know... Will try anything for this truck to be SAFE to have fun in. More worried about the people around me than myself on this one.
 
My truck has Belltech springs, and kyb shocks with all stock bushing and stuff and i dont have any bumpsteer issues.....Maybe you should try getting different rack n pinion bushing....do you have the energy ones on your truck? I used those before on my dakota and only problem i had with them was they squeeked a little
 
I installed a drop kit....1" front/ 2" rear. Similar to what our Vendor (Tony) offers here. While many stated that they were able to get front end alignment w/o (very little) slotting of the A arm slots I found I had to slot mine a good ways. Doing so got my camber back to factory. I then fabricated a new steering arm bracket so that it to went back to factory position. I have no bump steer what so ever. Feels completely stock.
 
I installed a drop kit....1" front/ 2" rear. Similar to what our Vendor (Tony) offers here. While many stated that they were able to get front end alignment w/o (very little) slotting of the A arm slots I found I had to slot mine a good ways. Doing so got my camber back to factory. I then fabricated a new steering arm bracket so that it to went back to factory position. I have no bump steer what so ever. Feels completely stock.

:rock::rock: Good job. You should post some pictures of how you slot your a arm and how you fabricated a new steering arm bracket
 
I have tony's lowering kit and poly bushings complete. Lower control arms uppers and steering bushings, Springs up front. I took it for an alignment and I have no issues ! Drives like stock as far as bump control. You need to get the alignment looked at ! It can't be right!!!
 
i would agree with huck, have the aligment checked, negitive camber can make a car real unstable. however i do belive that some road racers set their cars up with neg camber because it makes the car turn in faster and puts more of the outside front tire on the ground when turning. basicly if your left tire is leaning to the right a little when you turn hard right it plants that left tire square into the pavment.
 
What the above 2 poster said^^^^
Alignment issues #1, but what is causing the alignment issues? Sounds to me you have a bad Balljoint, tie rod end or broken steering rack. IT should NEVER take the wheel from you and go it's way of choosing:dontknow:
Sounds very unsafe! I personally would jack up the front end and check all connections from A-Arms, Upper Control arms, Tie Rods, and check the steering rack for leaks/damage! When the front end is in the air, move the wheel from top to bottom, any noise or looseness? Now move the wheel to left and right as it would turning, any sign of looseness?
 
:rock::rock: Good job. You should post some pictures of how you slot your a arm and how you fabricated a new steering arm bracket

Slotted the mounts with carbide bit. Took me 3X before my alignment guy said I was good to go. I was beginning to think I'd run out of room on the mounts! Any further and I would have had to weld on new mounting tabs. I just went and double checked how much I had to move the control arm in the slots....approx 27mm. I remember many stating they only had to move 10-12mm.

As for steering arm bracket...I simply measured the stock relationship. Installed the lowering kit and remeasured. Pulled the connector and dropped it off at a local fabrication shop and gave them the length I needed. Had it back that afternoon. I did the same with the rear sway bar by changing the end mounts to bring it back to stock height/relationship. Not that it makes any difference....just wanted my truck to be as near stock configuration as possible with lowering kit installed.
 
Appreciate all the info guys, and here is some more details to chew on, as my first conclusions were the same as above;

1. Truck is stock height with stock springs no lowering
2. Full poly bushings up front including arms
3. Alignment is spot on and in spec per local dealer, per NTB, and local frame and alignment shop
4. steers straight as an arrow, no uneven tire wear
5. When we upgraded to poly bushings in control arms we checked ball joints and tie rods etc, everything perfect.

This is why I am stumped. Did not know if these trucks had bumpsteer from the plant, or if the poly rack bushings may be the cause. Like I said I can handle the truck after a bump at normal speeds, but worried about that ONE time I don't have a handle on it or am going a bit faster than I should. I doubt DCX would have let a truck leave R&D with this much bumpsteer, but have never driven a bone stock one brand new so I have nothing to compare it to...
 
Stock , these trucks handled perfectly! The tail would wag alittle on a high speed corner but other than that the stock pirelli's would catch the grooves in the road a bit. NO bumpsteer at all! Check and make sure the PROPER rack bushings were installed CORRECTLY !!! Sounds like the rack must be moving when you hit these bumps!
Or maybe a bad wheel bearing? Something is amiss !

My alignment guy set the back upper c
 
Right to the end and said I probably wouldn't notice any issues leaving it there. Once the geometry of the lowering kit changed , the alignment is really just a guess! The factory specs don't mean athing
 
Sounds to me you have a bad Balljoint,

ditto

i had a similar issue and my truck through me for a LOOP! The upper ball joint was so loose you could nearly pop the ball out of the socket. This was around the 60k mile mark. When the suspension would compress it would cause off camber on one side of the truck causing it to pull pretty dramaticaly. One day on a wet road, down a hill where there was a known dip. The roads were damp. When i hit this dip the truck pulled, back end swung out and i was unable to regain control. i spun out. didnt hit anything.

But after i got the repairs done on the suspension, including the ball joints nearly all the bump steer was remedied. Not saying this is your problem, but it might be something to look at.
 
Slotted the mounts with carbide bit. Took me 3X before my alignment guy said I was good to go. I was beginning to think I'd run out of room on the mounts! Any further and I would have had to weld on new mounting tabs. I just went and double checked how much I had to move the control arm in the slots....approx 27mm. I remember many stating they only had to move 10-12mm.

As for steering arm bracket...I simply measured the stock relationship. Installed the lowering kit and remeasured. Pulled the connector and dropped it off at a local fabrication shop and gave them the length I needed. Had it back that afternoon. I did the same with the rear sway bar by changing the end mounts to bring it back to stock height/relationship. Not that it makes any difference....just wanted my truck to be as near stock configuration as possible with lowering kit installed.

GREAT INFO BOSS!!!!! :rock::rock::rock:
 
Stock , these trucks handled perfectly! The tail would wag alittle on a high speed corner but other than that the stock pirelli's would catch the grooves in the road a bit. NO bumpsteer at all! Check and make sure the PROPER rack bushings were installed CORRECTLY !!! Sounds like the rack must be moving when you hit these bumps!
Or maybe a bad wheel bearing? Something is amiss !

My alignment guy set the back upper c

Like Huck said it sounds like the RACK is moving or something. Id check that since that is really the only mod to your front end. Even if that rack is only movin a tiny bit when it hits these bumps its gonna let both tires go that direction almost like your steering in that direction.....
 
Will do, is the best way to check this taking it up on a lift and cycling the suspension with a jack? Just tugging on the rack I don't see or feel any movement.
 
hmm if you dont feel any movement by tugging on the wheel back and fourth then it should be fine. Have you ever asked the alignment guy to drive it with you and have him feel what your talking about?
 

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