Cam

ok..I'll bite



there really is no such thing as a cam upgrade....

Cam profiles are designed for a package...no package...no cam....at minimum headers, intake and programing....

$2800 for a cam install is like $5000 for a header install..crazy

For a N/A build headers are needed...as is headwork...valve train upgrading...intake port matching....and a cam....ie VT2933....
 
Sorry Paddy i was a touch outta line there;)

i just havent had a good end to the day but here goes.

N/A like nowwhat says needs to be a package deal to work.

it needs to breath, thus the long tube headers, and some headwork, and you have to be careful with the cam profile because of your automatic.

too big, it want idle, then you will have to go with a stall convertor.

what I would suggest is getting the specs on the mopar cam first.

then call someone like comp cams, or someone that can build you a cam specifically for what you want.

You will need to tell them where you want the trq curve, that you are an automatic, an what other mods you are goin to do , then or in the future.
then based around that they can give you a profile of a cam that would be best, and tell you if the mopar cam will be jsut as good a cam.


And Annnu you REALLLY need to get away from that shop bro!

i know of a member here that is getting a vec III, a roe super charger, and a cam installed and all for less than $1500 and he does excellent work.
 
Nowwhat said:
ok..I'll bite



there really is no such thing as a cam upgrade....

Cam profiles are designed for a package...no package...no cam....at minimum headers, intake and programing....

$2800 for a cam install is like $5000 for a header install..crazy

For a N/A build headers are needed...as is headwork...valve train upgrading...intake port matching....and a cam....ie VT2933....

On this one Mike is right. The way to reliable performace comes from what you do to inside not what you just bolt on.

Mike you are right about this one.
If reliable perfomance is what you are after all the internal parts must be matched up for your intended needs,mix and match is not going to get the job done.
Don't waste your $$$ on bolt-ons, get inside the engine and start from there. IE: Align boring, balancing all internalls ,clearancing the crank,side clearancing the rods,check rod lenghts( thay do vary a little ), just get a good set of rods, matching deck hieghts, CC the heads, ect.
Then you can get the Package that will work reliably for you, make lots of HP and not waste your hard earned $$$ bolting parts onto an unstable platform.
There are many that have bolted on just to break or blow up just to learn the hard truth.............It is what is on the inside that counts.

Oh and I fully disagree about headers.........a pure waste, unless you plan to run your engine at near the same RPMs all the time, you can not tune them for eveything, not much for the Buck...................My .03 cents
 
:dontknow: :dontknow: Your Probably right. I wish Dan wa closer. Here is what the same shop said stinker: Supercharge it for 14,000 and still only run 5 psi because If i want more it will be 10,000 more for a Bottom end so I can run 8 psi. Shit is that right or what???
 
What kind of supercharger? 7-8 psi with a Paxton and stock bottom end are no problem if tuned correctly. Built bottom end is a requirement for NOS and supercharger IMO. If you build the bottom end it could take more than 8. Oh and that is an outrageous price for a supercharger unless they are including a tranny, mater meth, and a VEC. And even then I'm not sure thats not a raping.

Joe
 
Annu Kumar said:
:dontknow: :dontknow: Your Probably right. I wish Dan wa closer. Here is what the same shop said stinker: Supercharge it for 14,000 and still only run 5 psi because If i want more it will be 10,000 more for a Bottom end so I can run 8 psi. Shit is that right or what???

Annu, A Paxton running 8 PSI (stock Paxton blower just installed correctly, as per Paxton's instructions/specifications) is completly safe on a stock truck motor. The above mentioned installation with a tune should not go over 11 large. A VEC 3 tuner, would run an additional 1000.00

The truth is you can run 9 PSI on a stock motor if it is tuned properly. This puts you in the high 600 RWHP range. There are many here that have run this for many miles with no problems.
 
One of the great misconceptions is that owners think that by installing a cam they will get these things to sound like a big block V8 with a cam. These are not V8's, nor will they ever sound like one.
 
Silverback said:
One of the great misconceptions is that owners think that by installing a cam they will get these things to sound like a big block V8 with a cam. These are not V8's, nor will they ever sound like one.
Right on! Right ON!

Hey SilverBack where you @ Boomers GTG? I didn't Recall Seeing anyone
like your sig pic...:eek: ;)
 
nycstev said:
Right on! Right ON!

Hey SilverBack where you @ Boomers GTG? I didn't Recall Seeing anyone
like your sig pic...:eek: ;)

Nope, not there. I was working like every other weekend since the first of the year.

Besides, I'm easy to spot. I'm the only one with a beer in one had and a banana in the other.:eek: :D
 
Nowwhat is right on the money with his advice. My cam profile was not selected until Joe talked with me over several shop visits about my driving habits, mods that were already installed, ALL of the mods I planned to put into the truck (the completed package), how much I wanted to spend, and what expectations I had from the build, ie..1/4 mile performance, hp & trq, etc...
Joe then talked things over with the techs at Comp Cams before he settled on the grind he wanted.

As for the lopey idle. Silverback is right on this. Our motors are never going to sound like a big cammed V-8. My cam is fairly lopey but not REAL lopey like everyone would really like to have. The problem with getting that huge lope is that you would loose the torque curve running a cam that big. My cam didn't show hardley any gains until 3500 rpms. Go any bigger and the gains won't start until even higher in the band. That's not good with a vehicle as heavy as ours. You have a QC that's heavier so you should probably go with a cam that's smaller than mine. You can put a huge cam in that will lope so hard that your windows rattle but it won't perform in these trucks.

Also, we are not limited in any form on cam selection. Any of the cam companies that make Viper cams can cut you just about any profile cam that you want. The trick is to make it perform. That's why the tuners make the big bucks.

A cam swap alone should cost you about $1,000 for labor + parts.
 
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I know this thing will never sound like a V8. Remember that I just made a post as to why I removed flowmasters from my truck. But it can be made to sound better.

Thank you so much for the input, gentlemen.

I think I'll just take the money I would spend on a cam and install and put it towards some forged goodies.

Silentpro, I'll send you a pm.
 
Solid decision!

Maybe a 150 shot to add a little energy to those short spurts!
 
Prof said:
Solid decision!

Maybe a 150 shot to add a little energy to those short spurts!


I've thought about it but I'm just too scared of it. I don't know anyone here in my area that I would trust to do a set-up on my truck.
 
PaddyOBrian said:
I've thought about it but I'm just too scared of it. I don't know anyone here in my area that I would trust to do a set-up on my truck.

Get the Zex system. The install is very very easy. It took AWDisuzu and I about 3 Hours from start to finish. If you get the older NX system like mine it gets a little more involved. If you decide to do the Zex system PM me and I'll walk you thru it.

Brad
 
SrtBrad said:
Get the Zex system. The install is very very easy. It took AWDisuzu and I about 3 Hours from start to finish. If you get the older NX system like mine it gets a little more involved. If you decide to do the Zex system PM me and I'll walk you thru it.

Brad

You're alright for a Commonwealther! I appreciate the offer, Brad.
 

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