CAMSHAFT HELP!

Tooloe

Tooloe

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ok well just got off the phone with my builder..and the comp coupe cam is on national back order....What Cam Would Go Good With my Mods? i mean i don't know where to turn now.. thr comp coupe cam kinda goes good with any head mods and compression bumps but now i'm cornered in a corner and don't know what to do.. what other cam choices are out there.. and i'm kinda looking for our guys who are highly modd'ed like stinker-fstjack- Supercar and them i figuer they can point me in the right direction..and help me out my motor isn't exactly stroked or a 522 but it's more like a 510 with bumped up compression- with a nice valve job and ported and polished heads with a portmatched motor..what should i do? i'm also thinking about strykers on down the road do they make a cam?

ALSO I'm an is Desprite NEED of An Oil pan or some one who can patch mine.... i cannot justify spending 1600 bucks on something that dosent' help me go fast or make it shake at a stop light
 
the motor is out of the truck it's 1/2 as expensive to change the cam now than the put one in when the motor is in the truck.. i'm think i might as well do it now and save a few bucks like a grand or so in savings

Also thisd truck will prob never have a Blower ontop of it due to the 11. compression ratio
 
Toole I am super tied up at the moment, just checking in , but pm rotten ronnie, he has tons of knowledge:rock:

also if you check comp cams website they have two listed, the large is very close to the mopar hot cam.

also yes Striker does make cams , but they are billet and custom grinds, and around $750 or so.

But i can get with jeff at Strikers if ya want sir.

also Pm FSTJACK; about lsm cams they are also billt and custom tho, and $.

hmmm, I got to get with UGR on some things in a week or so, I know you may be in a hurry , but let me see aobut a oil pan .
 
no real hurry my motors paid for and they are just starting to put it together and these are the major hicups lol no rush sir and thanks for you information! do some searching around please! and don't tell anyone but your my hero:rock: :rock:

an don't mean to sound stupid or anything but what the diffrence a billet cam?
 
Tooloe said:
no real hurry my motors paid for and they are just starting to put it together and these are the major hicups lol no rush sir and thanks for you information! do some searching around please! and don't tell anyone but your my hero:rock: :rock:

an don't mean to sound stupid or anything but what the diffrence a billet cam?
Click to expand...


they take a stock piece, and cut a custom grind intothe cam instead of a production line cam that is cast out.

shooot! i gotta run:D

SUPERCAR! HELP OUT SIR ON THE EXPLANATIONS:p

BACK IN AN HOUR OR SO:D
 
Race Camshaft
Based on the Competition Coupe camshaft. Uses production springs and rocker arms to offer a 6–8 horsepower increase at top end of rpm range. Recommended for use with Race Engine Controller (P4510172) and 3" Race Exhaust (P4510176). Features:
• Cam Lift: 0.320" Intake and 0.320" Exhaust
• Duration at 0.050": 220.00" Intake/230.5" Exhaust
• Cam Centerline = 117° after Top Dead Center
P4510171 Race Camshaft (2003–06 Viper SRT10) 325.50
http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/viper.html
 
Stinker said:
they take a stock piece, and cut a custom grind intothe cam instead of a production line cam that is cast out.

shooot! i gotta run:D

SUPERCAR! HELP OUT SIR ON THE EXPLANATIONS:p

BACK IN AN HOUR OR SO:D
Click to expand...



Billet cams are the most precise and therefore $. They are cut from a solid piece/billet of high grade steel.

There are plenty of sources that could help you with your cam selection.

The last time I checked, Comp Cams had a program where you provide your info and they would spec a cam for you that would be pretty much dead on.

Unless $ is no issue, I would wager that there is an off the shelf cam that would be very, very, close to the most expensive custom billet cam without the huge $.
 

Another item is that unless this is going to be a full time race vehicle,

go on the conservative side on the cam or you will not be happy with street

driving.

 
supercar1of1 said:

Another item is that unless this is going to be a full time race vehicle,

go on the conservative side on the cam or you will not be happy with street

driving.
Click to expand...

That is why I didnt bother with a cam....to get power and the lope you want you are trading low end TQ....not a big problem for a lighter vehicle but would make a 2.7 ton brick a dog around town.....only gains would be at WOT...cams like the Comp & Mopar add less than 10HP...not worth the cost un less you use them in a package......there are some custom cams that do well but are $$$...
 
Tooloe said:
the motor is out of the truck it's 1/2 as expensive to change the cam now than the put one in when the motor is in the truck.. i'm think i might as well do it now and save a few bucks like a grand or so in savings

Also thisd truck will prob never have a Blower ontop of it due to the 11. compression ratio
Click to expand...

You are right! NOW is the time to change the cam. It is no easy task when the engine is in the vehicle.

The cam listed by DevilDawg3097 above "is close" to the billet roller I bought from Jeff Morys (Father Striker). Mine has more duration at .050" (226 degrees) and less on the exhaust than the one DevilDawg listed. The l.s.a. is tighter as well (more overlap) and produces a boogety-boogety-boogety idle which is fine by me. The cam from Jeff was a "truck cam" and works well. Dead idle launches through the auto with drag radials = 1.8 sec. 60 foot = good torque.
It has a W-I-D-E torque band which is exactly what the whole project was about. Decent mileage too! I pushed it a touch with 10.5:1 even at our dismal altitude so the correct tune is VERY important and you are up 1/2 a point higher than me! The Strikers have a fast burn chamber as well so your tune could be touchy without that advantage. Not hard for a knowledgeable tuner though...I use 94 octane fuel and was getting a fair amount of ping before Chris Jensen at DC started to work with it via emails. No big deal. If you go with Strikers later, have your tuner dial in some more timing...
With the Strikers, the truck cam will give you 30+ horsepower which is significant. I am not sure what you will gain with the head mods you have but it is a good overall choice.
You could likely go with a performance style lifter because you have a manual trans. They will help scrub off some low r.p.m. cylinder pressure until your truck has some speed up. I could be overstating this a bit but I am a fussy bugger.
Talk to some more cam grinders and/or read info from the guys on this Forum.
If you can't choose when it gets down to the final two, use the golden rule and choose the milder one.
Hope this helps...

Rotten
 
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ronnie where did you get your cam at.. could you PM me the info?.. or share it on here. my tuner will be david weaver from A.R.T so the tuning shouldn't be a problem...

And I'm All about the Sound! also looking to keep it as torquey as i can
 
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Tooloe said:
ronnie where did you get your cam at.. could you PM me the info?.. or share it on here. my tuner will be david weaver from A.R.T so the tuning should be a problem...

And I'm All about the Sound! also looking to keep it as torquey as i can
Click to expand...

Re-read your first line! Hopefully you meant tuning shouldn't be a problem :)

http://jmcylinderheads.com/default.htm

Ron
 
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I B back:D

thanks Ronnie and SuperCar:rock:


Toole, right now, and not sure, but have been talking with Jeff about being a dealer with him, but needed at least 3 buys to be a dealer with him.

but if you are interested , i can talk with him, and see about a single head and cam purchase, you can see by Ronnies sig, they work:rock:

I can thro up a pic of the heads if you want, but his new ones come with crower rockers, and push rods.

the billet cam is $750 retail i think bro, and he can probably do exactly what you want:congrats: :congrats: :congrats:

still kinda bizzy, but pm me if interested sir
 
thanks guys! i'm pretty sure thats the cam i'm going to end up going with i'll PM you stink!
 
Cam sounds good Ron!

I'm so used to a LSx platform engine. I do alot of custom grinds for the ls stuff at my shop. In overall performance and driveabilty a custom cam from someone that has mastered the valve events for these engines is well worth the money. They can taylor the cam to the exact useage of the truck. Alot goes into calculating the proper valve events so don't trust just anyone, and with a proper speced cam you can build great power within the rpm limits of the engine and not having to be soft on the bottom.
 
John02SS said:
Cam sounds good Ron!

I'm so used to a LSx platform engine. I do alot of custom grinds for the ls stuff at my shop. In overall performance and driveabilty a custom cam from someone that has mastered the valve events for these engines is well worth the money. They can taylor the cam to the exact useage of the truck. Alot goes into calculating the proper valve events so don't trust just anyone, and with a proper speced cam you can build great power within the rpm limits of the engine and not having to be soft on the bottom.
Click to expand...

You mention some really good points that seem to be rarely considered when shelling out the "Big Bucks" for a billet roller. A "similar" cam can behave radically different (power production wise) than the PROPER one, as you are probably aware.
The Strikers come on hard (flow) in the mid lift range. (Jeff, a.k.a. Father Striker, is showing his NASCAR background here) and in this case, the cam, as you say, is tailored to work with the heads. I like to think you get what you pay for and it was a little extra for the billet roller; but the combo works really well in a heavy vehicle with an auto trans. NOT soft on the bottom.
I mapped the cam with a degree wheel and dial indicator and it is a pretty trick piece! Gotta love what a roller can do! Mild spring pressures too (not always an easy task).
 
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