Camshaft Postition Sensor Help ( install) Wifey come in!

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Feel like an asshat, but cheking all sensors and wiring trying to narrow down my crazy, no DTC throwing, crap running issue during crusing conditions, and I removed the CPS ( cam postion sensor) to check it out since I heard of someone on here having a chewed up one and truck not running or running like crap. Well I pull it out and all looks well, so I reinstall it and go to fire the engine off, and I heard a crack sound and the truck never fired off? I go back around to make sure it was plugged in all the way and the sensor, which is tightened down by a bolt on a flange mount, shot out of the block hanging by the wire? It literally broke the mounting flange so it would not reattach. Well after planning to put it back in and try again, I noticed the end where it reads was chewed up by I assume the cam gear wheel or whatever it uses for reference? It is destroyed! I ordered a new one since the old one doesn't work anymore and flange was broken now, but I don't want this to happen twice!! Apparently this sensor has some sort of adjustment since the flange is elongated? I guess I had it too far in? Seemed to be where it was at, but evidently it mounts this close to the wheel and there is no way to see how close you are? Please help me, those with knowledge on this matter!
Thanks Scott

"Engine wont start if you have a real cam sensor error. Could order and replace the cam sensor....not that expensive and you have to be careful replacing it. Its easy to install it wrong and when you crank the engine it could break the sensor."

 

[TheMoparConnection]

Hope this helps you..

Apply a small amount of engine oil to the sensor o-ring.
A low (step down) and high (step up) area are machined into the camshaft drive gear. The sensor is positioned in the timing gear cover so that a small air gap exists between the face of sensor and the high machined area of cam gear.

Before the sensor is installed, the cam gear may have to be rotated. This is to allow the high machined area (step up) on the gear to be directly in front of the sensor mounting hole opening on the timing gear cover.

Do not install sensor with gear positioned at low area. When the engine is started, the sensor will be broken.

Using a 1/2 in. wide metal ruler, measure the distance from the cam gear to the face of the sensor mounting hole opening on the timing gear cover.
If the dimension is approximately 1–15/32 inches or less, it is OK to install sensor.
If the dimension is approximately 1–5/8 inches or more, the cam gear will have to be rotated.
Attach a socket to the vibration damper mounting bolt and rotate engine until the 1–15/32 inch dimension is attained.
Install the sensor into the timing case/cover with a slight rocking action. Do not twist the sensor into position as damage to the o-ring may result. Push the sensor all the way into the cover until the rib material on the sensor contacts the camshaft gear.
Install the mounting bolt and tighten to 10.7 N·m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
Connect sensor wiring harness to engine harness.
When the engine is started, the rib material will be sheared off the face of sensor. This will automatically set sensor air gap.

 

[TheMoparConnection]

Heres a couple pics of what its talking about

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Thanks man, kinda what I was thinking but damn, that's a pretty blind way to setup a sensor? Apparently I was at the low spot and the high spot sheared the sensor about 3/8" deep! Thanks again man!:rock:

 

[TheMoparConnection]

yes sir... thats is what it sounds like. no prob. hope you get it set-up

 

[QuickSilver]

dcperformance just replaced mine on an '04.

Started like she had a dead battery, never showed a code.

But when checked did show a fail on two trips...

Had to pull half the Paxton off just to get to the SOB

Quick

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

It would really be awesome if this was my initial problem and my accident was meant to be. It would seem that when driving at a sustained speed (60MPH) example, that all the sudden, the timing would jump or a coil pack go out, or something similar. The smell of raw, unburned fuel fills the cab, and runs like crap. A simple bit of additional pedal clears it instantly? I swore TPS but to no avail, although the data logger I borrowed shows it at 15% at idle and only 75% WOT. It doesn't show voltage though. I have seen the voltage on another logger and it said the correct .8 at idle and 4.5 WOT?

 

[SNAKEGUTS]

So.... If the camshaft is replaced does the sensor need replacing so it can have the proper air gap?

Also are you concerned about any of the left over sensor in the engine that got chopped off?

Hate when stuff like that happens.

Good luck man.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Yes, indeed forgot to mention that. I am somewhat concerned about the magnet piece that broke off, not so much the plastic. I will change the oil before starting to try and get what I can out. Maybe the magentic pieces will stay attached to the block or where ever they went. I would think magnetic metal would be worse than lifter or bearing material? We aren't talking about alot of metal or plastic, but worries me nonetheless.
As far as replacing the sensor for a new cam, I doubt it! But I would remove the sensor and repeat the install procedure to ensure it doesn't get chewed up!

 

[Wifey]

Yes, indeed forgot to mention that. I am somewhat concerned about the magnet piece that broke off, not so much the plastic. I will change the oil before starting to try and get what I can out. Maybe the magentic pieces will stay attached to the block or where ever they went. I would think magnetic metal would be worse than lifter or bearing material? We aren't talking about alot of metal or plastic, but worries me nonetheless.
As far as replacing the sensor for a new cam, I doubt it! But I would remove the sensor and repeat the install procedure to ensure it doesn't get chewed up!

caution, remember the block is alumunum, the magnet pieces will stick to something that is steel.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

caution, remember the block is alumunum, the magnet pieces will stick to something that is steel.

Yeah, not sure what I was thinking on that post! Yeah prolly stick to the crank or oil pump gears

 

[Ram From Hell]

Um, I inhaled sharply when I read you heard a crack.

I replaced mine a while back, and was strongly warned about that possibility. You might seriously consider pulling the timing cover to get that material out.


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