Guys, I have tried everything and can't hook up. I tried varying idle rpm launches, and from idle to about 1500 it boggs down on the launch. Anything above 1500 and dumping the clutch...I just burn rubber. The truck is all stock except for the tires. They are toyo proxes st and grip very well on dry pavement. What are you guys doing when launching? What would help get traction from the line? Its a stock 04 so you all know exactly what I have.:dontknow:
Can't launch....
- Thread starter 500snakz
- Start date
Some good drag radials should do the trick. Check out M&H
Marc T
Full Access Member
500snakz said:
I don't think there has been but a couple of people pull off a respectable launch in these trucks, and that has been at the track with slicks and a big burn out!!
Join the club brother!!
DUDE! you got 525 ft. lbs. of torque at your disposal:rock:LOL (try lowering you air pressure in your rear tires)
FATJACK
Full Access Member
At The 1st Annual Panama City GTG at the dragstrip I was running 22psi in the rears, leaving at about 3000 rpm and spinning the tires so bad I could not powershift 2nd gear because it was still spinning so hard. I was getting from 2.09 to 2.25 60' times which is not good BUT I was able to get very good reaction times and on stock tires that is about all you can ask for. Next time I hope to have drag radials on it. No matter what DO NOT slip your clutch for a cleaner leave, that will fry the bitch in a hurry, ALWAYS drop the clutch and ease into the throttle. My factory clutch has 39,000 miles on it and I did win that particular bracket race against all those trucks with regular racing slicks and drag radials.:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
You have even more of a disadvantage because of your 4:10 gears, nothing is gonna hook one of our trucks on street tires.
You have even more of a disadvantage because of your 4:10 gears, nothing is gonna hook one of our trucks on street tires.
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Best thing is to lower tire pressure 22 or so, clean tires off with simple green before you line up to stage. Other than that, I cant help ya!! LOL My best 60 was a 2.2!!! Yeehaw!!
Dont slip the clutch....................that cost me $2k!!!
patrick
Dont slip the clutch....................that cost me $2k!!!
patrick
wheredwhogo?
Full Access Member
i dont think your RPMs are high enough. I had the best luck dropping my psi down to about 19 or 20. RPMs at 2700 and dump the clutch. DONT SLIP IT! the clutch is made to engage, not slip. Also do not go through the bleach box, radials dont perform as well. Maui is right, clean the tires off after the bleach box, when he says clean them off, he means just spin them over, no burnout. Thats what I did and that sum bitch bogged, grabed and took off...others might have different tactics though.
FSTJACK
Full Access Member
wheredwhogo? said:
Quite an art to launch with street tires.
I pulled 1.94-1.98 60' times (stock tires @ 22psi + Caltracks) by driving out against the clutch, (no burnout).
That is letting the clutch out quickly (not dumping it) at about 1800-2000 RPM while feeding the gas in.
This is very touchy and if you do it wrong a few times you will smoke the clutch. I have been doing this since the early 60's so I have a little practice.
wheredwhogo?
Full Access Member
ill concour with the dumping and burning the clutch. driving it out, as you stated, is difficult for the novice and will likely result in the same result if not done properly.
I dump it at 1200-1500 RPM. Does it spin? Hell, yes but not that bad. I usually get 2.1 - 2.2 60' times. That's not great, but that's with a stock suspension, normal tire pressure and no burnout. Like everyone says, don't slip it. It's sooo easy to burn these clutches.
How about a JMB Traction Package - Stage 3? Maybe 2? That's what I'm getting installed, I haven't driven my truck yet, don't know what stock is like but will try it prior to the JMB install, should be nice + QAI adjustables. My 0.02c
http://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_93&products_id=263
:rock:
My 0.02chttp://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_93&products_id=263
:rock:
NBT
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FSTJACK said:
:dito: :dito:
moparracing
Full Access Member
roy's got the answer........Prof said:
btw, roy, what are you getting forged - rods & pistons or ??
Everything...I not only want to be the fastest and quickest 14 second truck, I also want to be the strongest!
Marc T
Full Access Member
Roy,
Will you be upgrading to the Roe 10lb pulley after the rebuild?
Will you be upgrading to the Roe 10lb pulley after the rebuild?
Marc T said:
Sean is saying that will be the ticket...and I will probably do it, but this build is mainly to create a bullet-proof engine, so in the future all I will ever have to worry about is tires.
moparracing
Full Access Member
you need to give us a run down on the upgraded parts when you're finished.......
Here is what is being done right now, we are still pondering a few other things:
Engine Modifications:
Diamond Pistons, Pins Rings w/coated deck & skirts
Oliver Rods
Main bearings / Rod bearings coated
Chrome Moly Pushrods
Cylinder Hone w/plates
Line Hone
Deck Block
Nitride Crankshaft
Polished and ground crankshaft
Fully balanced Rotating Assembly
Block machined for greater oil feed galleys
Full gasket replacement
Added one-piece pressure relief valve
Engine Modifications:
Diamond Pistons, Pins Rings w/coated deck & skirts
Oliver Rods
Main bearings / Rod bearings coated
Chrome Moly Pushrods
Cylinder Hone w/plates
Line Hone
Deck Block
Nitride Crankshaft
Polished and ground crankshaft
Fully balanced Rotating Assembly
Block machined for greater oil feed galleys
Full gasket replacement
Added one-piece pressure relief valve
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