CAT (caterpillar) oil filter

Wifey may be able to help here because it was years ago when this discussion last came up.
I do remember seeing a higher number in the manual of a 2006, which was a misprint.
Again, it was years ago but I've always used 8.5L with a filter change.
It takes 10 Liters (10.5 U.S. Quarts) after a rebuild to fill a completely dry 8.3L engine.
It doesn't help the sticks are notoriously hard to read.
 
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Mine uses 8.5

I think diesels use 10.5


SEE POST 17.... and see POST #20...


 
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Okay so that's my take on the oil capacity from years of threads and from my own experience but if nothing else start low, give it time to get where it's gotta go then you can always add more.

Easier than removing it when you get it overfull lol
 
Okay so that's my take on the oil capacity from years of threads and from my own experience but if nothing else start low, give it time to get where it's gotta go then you can always add more.

Easier than removing it when you get it overfull lol
Nah , just let it settle running at full throttle and the level will come down lol of course it may be due to leaking gaskets and seals :eek:
 
Prime the filter or not before installing has been a dispute forever !
I’ve always primed and put a slight oil coating on the gasket .
I think it was Bob the oiled guy that did a test about this in one of their vids .. To me it only makes sense to prime the filter to get immediate oil circulation..
 
There has been confusion over the amount of oil since the begging.. QC state 10.5 quarts and SC’s stated 8.5 quarts ..
Ronnie has stated that the dip sticks are incorrect but I’ll let him explain what he knows …
Im still using the 10.5 quarts in mine as of the last oil change a while ago since Im not driving much these days ..the dipstick on mine shows the proper level with 10.5 !
I don’t think the sticks are meant to be exact, more of a “it’s good to drive” over dull and it’ll splash off the counterweights of the crank and air-ate, and foam the oil. Not good for lubing sensitive parts, too low it’ll starve for oil. Long as your in between the two you should be good lol. Allot of the next gen machines CAT is putting out has two sticks. One up top that I go by, and one down low so you don’t have to climb on the machine to check the oil…. But the swing drive is up there and you have to climb to check the oil level on it (I have no idea…. Engineers.) anyways, the top one will read perfect right on the money, and the lower one will always read over full. It could possibly be for towing, more capacity to keep it cooler. Possibly high RPM, to keep enough oil in the sump if the pump turns 1:1 with the crank (I’m still blown away by that, must have a seriously robust oil pump shaft if it runs off the cam like the 318/360 it’s designed from.) I haven’t been inside a V10 so I’m learning here lol. I know when I built my 360 magnum for my 91 D150 it was mentioned to get a stronger pump shaft if going with a volume oil pump, they have been known to shear at high RPM trying to pump oil around. Dang it!! I rambled lol. Increased capacity to keep oil in the sump during high RPM to keep from starving oil because it has a series oil pump lol. Of course a V10 has a longer block and internals so a higher pressure/volume pump to make sure the oil reaches everything (I’m assuming and that’s dangerous lol, these 8.3 have a rear pump location like the 318/360? And being in a truck, rear sump…. Smart thing for drag racing as the force pushes all the oil to the rear of the pan. I gotta stop rambling lol.
 
What has been done to the oil system that improves and control the oil in the engine ..
Wet sump type ! windage trays , dual pickups, pumps channels/ ports , etc .. Ive never torn down the viper motor and wondering if improvements can be made, Should or have been done ?
 
I don’t think the sticks are meant to be exact, more of a “it’s good to drive” over dull and it’ll splash off the counterweights of the crank and air-ate, and foam the oil. Not good for lubing sensitive parts, too low it’ll starve for oil. Long as your in between the two you should be good lol. Allot of the next gen machines CAT is putting out has two sticks. One up top that I go by, and one down low so you don’t have to climb on the machine to check the oil…. But the swing drive is up there and you have to climb to check the oil level on it (I have no idea…. Engineers.) anyways, the top one will read perfect right on the money, and the lower one will always read over full. It could possibly be for towing, more capacity to keep it cooler. Possibly high RPM, to keep enough oil in the sump if the pump turns 1:1 with the crank (I’m still blown away by that, must have a seriously robust oil pump shaft if it runs off the cam like the 318/360 it’s designed from.) I haven’t been inside a V10 so I’m learning here lol. I know when I built my 360 magnum for my 91 D150 it was mentioned to get a stronger pump shaft if going with a volume oil pump, they have been known to shear at high RPM trying to pump oil around. Dang it!! I rambled lol. Increased capacity to keep oil in the sump during high RPM to keep from starving oil because it has a series oil pump lol. Of course a V10 has a longer block and internals so a higher pressure/volume pump to make sure the oil reaches everything (I’m assuming and that’s dangerous lol, these 8.3 have a rear pump location like the 318/360? And being in a truck, rear sump…. Smart thing for drag racing as the force pushes all the oil to the rear of the pan. I gotta stop rambling lol.
Ramble all you want .. Im the same and babble about everything lol .
Im fully aware of the old small blocks 340’s back in the early 70’s and I owned 4 and modified the heck of of a few … Being the oil pump in the 340 or small blocks and installing high volume oil pumps Along with the stronger Direct connection shaft to the distributor was automatically done ,, the 340’s also had a windage try at the crank to control the oil Also adding a lifter valley windage tray was beneficial to control sloshing. Another mod was the Prssure relief spring and adding dual remote filters and a cooler which added around a quart to the system . Those damn oil pressure sending units were a leak waiting to happen from the factory.. I can’t even come close to the amount I replace back then on customers vehicles lol ..At least priming the oil through the engine was just a matter of removing the distributor and using a drill with a Long screw driver bit tool or home made lol
Those were the days .
 
The days of actually repairing went out the door a very long time ago and turned into nothing but parts changing ..
 
Prime the filter or not before installing has been a dispute forever !
I’ve always primed and put a slight oil coating on the gasket .
I think it was Bob the oiled guy that did a test about this in one of their vids .. To me it only makes sense to prime the filter to get immediate oil circulation..
Unless of course the filter opening is pointing to the ground, I also think it's a good idea. :) A certain Ford engine comes to mind with the oil filter on top of the engine.

I've been using "Clear-Flood Mode" to prime after an oil change on any vehicles with e.f.i. since the mid/late 1980s.

Just make sure the throttle is firmly pinned to the floor before cranking and *it won't start*: (I had ONE vehicle years ago this didn't work on, SO USE CAUTION !).

Just don't lift AT ALL while cranking, or it will fire...

GOOGLE Clear Flood Mode, for added confidence.

Livin' on the edge...
 
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