CEL issue

The bung is about 2-3 inches away from the nearest sensor, so i dont think it damaged it. However i drove home from that shop with a open bung. I went home and installed the wideband, later that day the first CEL came on, i ignored it and unplugged the battery to erase it since i dont have a code reader (i know, stupid thing to do). The codes i got today were all misfire codes but if they are caused by me going WOT yesterday, how come it took 24 hours to pop the CEL up.
 
i dont think the wot is an issue ,,,i am wondering about you driving home with basiclly a large hole in you exhaust blowing out ,,,now that would have thrown a code ,,but if you made it home ok with no code :dontknow:i would worry about burning something near the open bung hole
 
I don't think it was from the wot burn, did it run rough befor the light came on? I know disconnecting my battery made all kinds of problems for me, but when the map sensor hose popped off and mine ran like crap no codes i fixed it and it took a day or two to run normal.

Without seeing it and hooking it up to a scanner its hard to say.
 
Truck has felt fine, thats the weird thing. Never noticed any issues in power or sound of the engine during normal driving and that one WOT pull. Only sound difference was the open O2 Bung (of course). The distance from the shop to my house is 3-4kms max. Wideband is running normal, hell everything is running normal. Thats why i was shocked as hell when the guy told me the codes, i never felt any of it. And the open hole wasnt near anything really.
 
Snakes709 said:
Truck has felt fine, thats the weird thing. Never noticed any issues in power or sound of the engine during normal driving and that one WOT pull. Only sound difference was the open O2 Bung (of course). The distance from the shop to my house is 3-4kms max. Wideband is running normal, hell everything is running normal. Thats why i was shocked as hell when the guy told me the codes, i never felt any of it.
Click to expand...


Get a codereader or scanner and clear them the right way. Then go
From there.
 
Ramchargerguy said:
Get a codereader or scanner and clear them the right way. Then go
From there.
Click to expand...

Is there any way though to know that the issue is resolved besides the waiting game? I dont want to just change the plugs and check things over, then clear the code, thinking its good to go if its only going to happen again. I plan on running nitrous this year and i want the engine at its prime.
 
Snakes709 said:
Truck has felt fine, thats the weird thing. Never noticed any issues in power or sound of the engine during normal driving and that one WOT pull. Only sound difference was the open O2 Bung (of course). The distance from the shop to my house is 3-4kms max. Wideband is running normal, hell everything is running normal. Thats why i was shocked as hell when the guy told me the codes, i never felt any of it. And the open hole wasnt near anything really.
Click to expand...


clear codes ,slap some new plugs in there and drive the shit out of it ,,,most auto parts stores will hook up a code reader for free ,,,now just unplugging battery will not erase codes ,they will still be stored ,hell i have a code reader ill sell for 50 bucks ,,,i bought one off ebay and some how they sent me two of them for price of one ,,,it clears codes and lets you see everything ,,,you can even check out o2 sensors while you drive it ,,,not trying to sell you anything ,,,dont need cash but its an option ;)
 
Snakes709 said:
Is there any way though to know that the issue is resolved besides the waiting game? I dont want to just change the plugs and check things over, then clear the code, thinking its good to go if its only going to happen again. I plan on running nitrous this year and i want the engine at its prime.
Click to expand...

I havent had my new scanner hooked up to my truck if there is a misfire monitor. If you can access rhe misfire minitor you should be able to load it up like a brake stand check for a miss then road test and check for a miss. The road test is kinda hard to do in the snow :burnout:
 
Ramchargerguy said:
I havent had my new scanner hooked up to my truck if there is a misfire monitor. If you can access rhe misfire minitor you should be able to load it up like a brake stand check for a miss then road test and check for a miss. The road test is kinda hard to do in the snow :burnout:
Click to expand...



snow what the hell is that ,,,hell it was sunny and 70 out today :aetsch:
 
cool beans guys. Thanks, ill let you know how she seems tomorrow. And shush ironhead, we r getting 20cm of snow dumped on us right now, lol.
 
Snakes709 said:
cool beans guys. Thanks, ill let you know how she seems tomorrow. And shush ironhead, we r getting 20cm of snow dumped on us right now, lol.
Click to expand...

That converts to about 8" of snow:D
 
truck is a DD for me, snow or sun, doesnt matter. Infact i'll be doing winter auto-x on the 16th, hopefully we got some fresh snow around then.
 
Ok i think i might have found the issue, not sure. When i went to install the E3 plugs when i first got the truck (81,000km) the original plugs looked like this...
IMG_1199.jpg


IMG_1200.jpg


So when i went to change the plugs, i noticed #9 was really hard to get out. Finally after alot of cursing i got it out. But then when i put the new E3 plugs in, it kept cross threading. After getting it to somewhat not cross thread i got the plug in, well it looks like i didnt get it in all the way, even though that sucker was cranked on.

So today, dispite the blizzard we are having i went out and started changing the plugs. #4 didnt look bad at all. Once i got to #9 it looked totally different then the others. Heres the pics #1, #4 and #9

IMG_1442.jpg


IMG_1444.jpg


Those plugs have just over 6000km on them and as you can see, not much of a difference between #1 and #4. But #9 was burned at a higher spot then the others and not sure if you can see in the pictures but you can tell how far it was tightend down. I put all new NGK plugs in, gapped at .045, but #9 is feeling like its doing the same thing when i tighten it. It gives resistance but keeps going. I dont want to keep going because i dont know if its stripping the threads in the head (if they arent already stripped) But it defently doesnt feel normal. I started the truck up, got it warmed up, seems to be running fine, but then again, it seemed to run fine all along.

So what do you guys think? Could the #9 plug that wasnt in all the way cause the cylinder and #4 cylinder to misfire? Any way of repairing the threads in the head or do i need a new one?
 
the gasket on 9 is not crushed either.

might want to ran a tap down it to clean/straighten the threads & a dab of anti-seize on the plugs also
 
I'd be kind of scared to run a tap through the hole to find out later that metal shavings fell in. Is there some kind of small vacuum that can have a line fitted to it that will fit through the spark plug hole or can it be vacuumed through the exhaust port if the exhaust manifold were to be removed?
 
u mean the Intake manifold gasket? no, thats fine. What do u mean run a tap down? If/when this snow ever lets up, ill put some anti-seize on the plug.

But could the plug not being screwed down all the way be causing the misfires, makes sence on #9 but why would #4 misfire. Whats the firing order of the cylinders anyways?
 
Last edited:
no. the spark plug gasket on the #9 plug. to me it looks like no to very little crush as compared to the others.

as far as runnin a tap down the spark plug threads with the head on. thats no prob. fill the flutes of the tap with grease & the grease will catch the chips. have done it several times over the years on both iron & aluminum heads.

as far as a vaccum to go down into the cyl. if ya want to do it dry, yes they make them. either air powered or electric. i use a siphon gun made by Milton to suck oil out of bolt holes & cyl. works great & cheap
 
Will it be possible to do all this with the little room avalible, or does the engine have to be dropped?
 
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