Checking Interest (CI): *Correct* Lowering Blocks For RC's

[Kevan]

Hey folks.

After finding out that ALL lowering kits for the SRT-10 are so poorly engineered with questionable (at best) materials and components, I've decided to have *CORRECT* lowering blocks machined.

The blocks are going to be SOLID 6061 T-6 billet aluminum, MACHINED (not extruded) to proper OEM specs and for a PERFECT fit.
These are also designed so that the rear suspension components align correctly and work properly (unlike every single other lowering kit out there).

These will ONLY work with SRT-10 rear ends. They will NOT work on regular Ram trucks.

And for those that require the bling-bling, the blocks will all come with "SRT-10" *machined* into each side!
If you want something custom machined into the sides, let me know and I'll see what we can do for this test run.

Size Options:
1.5"
2"
3"
4"

I do not want to become a vendor, so if these get past the "one-off" status, the blocks will be offered through an approved vendor.

I am NOT doing this for profit. I am doing this to help fellow SRT-10 owners that have or want to lower their rears do it correctly and so that their suspension works as it should. I only want to get costs covered and I will gladly pay for my own set of blocks.

These can be cut, packaged, and shipped VERY quickly (within a week, or whenever the check clears...heh heh). There is NO WAITING and NO BACKORDER BS.

If it helps, these are 100% Made In The USA. Machined by guys named Bill and Rob and Derrick who live here in Ohio.
The aluminum is also from the US.

Of course it all comes down to quantity: the more ordered, the cheaper the individual sets will be.
I have (2) confirmed pair (Kevan-1.5, Greg-2) so the price is starting to come down.

QUANTITY---DESCRIPTION----UNIT PRICE------AMOUNT------PER VEHICLE
6............ea............$122............$732............[B]$244[/B]
8............ea............$105............$840............[B]$210[/B]
10...........ea............$95.50..........$955............[B]$191[/B]
16...........ea............$81.............$1296...........[B]$162[/B]
20...........ea............$75.75..........$1515...........[B]$151.50[/B]

Now, 3" and 4" blocks are slightly more expensive, but again....quantity rules the road.
Example: Single pr. of 3" blocks would be $522, and a single pr. of 4" blocks would be $546.
Like the chart above, the more we get cut, the cheaper they become per unit.
I would be happy to post the PDF quote from the machine shop or the other component receipts if anyone would like to see them. Let me know.

In addition to the blocks, you will probably need U-bolts (unless you already have longer ones from a previous lowering kit).
I'm still working on a good source for those and will get it posted soon.

There's also a threaded stud and a set screw for each block that I'll be sourcing over the weekend. It won't be much....just a couple of bucks (or less).

Everything will be Grade 8 or 18-8 Stainless Steel.
I'm not screwing around with this stuff. There is no "cheap" version of this.

Shipping will be via USPS with only ACTUAL shipping costs charged.

I'll have the CAD drawing up this evening.
That might help with those on the fence about this.

I'm not sure quite how to do the orders for this initial run.
I need a list of COMMITTED people, and the sizes they desire.
I might do some type of a deposit too....just to make sure I don't end up with 10 pr. of 4" blocks.

Please post here or send me a PM or email (kevan[at]jemfest[dot]com) with your commitment and what size block you would like.

 

[Wifey]

Sounds like a fantastic idea - FINALLY!!!! :rock: :rock: :rock: I wish I was into modding, I would certainly take you up on them :congrats:

 

[wheredwhogo?]

i dont have any issues with my McGauys lowering kit. dont know about anybody else...???

 

[Carlwalski]

I'm always keen to have the best, these should compliment Stinkers kit nicely. Am I able to order a set with slightly different heights as my truck has a slightly lower front on the (now) RH (drivers side). I believe it's the left rear block that needs trimming, I can get measurements, roughly 1/2" to level the front up. So I'd need a 2" and 1.5". But, the rear as it is now sits level, only the front is noticeable, am I tackling it correctly? As you know, lifting the rear moves the opposite front corner, like a pendulum effect. I thought about putting spacers under the front springs but all that will do is lift it up at the same exact angle.

I have attached some photos below. The drive way is pretty level and no matter where I park it's very obvious. It's 1" difference, so, no small chunk of change. Apparently this is due to the factory settings for when the car is fully loaded with fuel + LH Driver etc. When the truck is lowered this exaggerates the difference in height. Anyhow, if I were to get measurements would you be able to get 1 block shorter? If not, I totally understand, sounds like a hassle. Either way, I have to fix it as I'm bottoming out on that side only a lot, nothing "too" major but definitely some steel on steel action and the roads are nothing out of the normal. The front clip was loose (factory BS) but that is fixed and now tight, nothing to do with that. The RH bump stop is definitely closer.


Cheers,
Carl

 

[moparracing]

I'm always keen to have the best, these should compliment Stinkers kit nicely. Am I able to order a set with slightly different heights as my truck has a slightly lower front on the (now) RH (drivers side). I believe it's the left rear block that needs trimming, I can get measurements, roughly 1/2" to level the front up. So I'd need a 2" and 1.5". But, the rear as it is now sits level, only the front is noticeable, am I tackling it correctly? As you know, lifting the rear moves the opposite front corner, like a pendulum effect. I thought about putting spacers under the front springs but all that will do is lift it up at the same exact angle.

I have attached some photos below. The drive way is pretty level and no matter where I park it's very obvious. It's 1" difference, so, no small chunk of change. Apparently this is due to the factory settings for when the car is fully loaded with fuel + LH Driver etc. When the truck is lowered this exaggerates the difference in height. Anyhow, if I were to get measurements would you be able to get 1 block shorter? If not, I totally understand, sounds like a hassle. Either way, I have to fix it as I'm bottoming out on that side only a lot, nothing "too" major but definitely some steel on steel action and the roads are nothing out of the normal. The front clip was loose (factory BS) but that is fixed and now tight, nothing to do with that. The RH bump stop is definitely closer.


Cheers,
Carl

i had a similar issue with my truck being a 1/2" lower on the driver's side..... for a while, i just cranked up my caltracs on the drivers side..... when i had it professionally lowered, they de-arched the passenger side rear spring a 1/2" more than the drivers side to level the truck.

 

[Carlwalski]

i had a similar issue with my truck being a 1/2" lower on the driver's side..... for a while, i just cranked up my caltracs on the drivers side..... when i had it professionally lowered, they de-arched the passenger side rear spring a 1/2" more than the drivers side to level the truck.

Thanks Moparracing. Sounds very plausible and I didn't think of re-tensioning the leafs. I will hold off doing that for now but it's definitely a possibility. I do have JMBs stage 3 traction kit (no Caltracs) so I wonder if that would cause or hinder me from re-tensioning the springs, I wouldn't imagine so. Now that the truck has settled after the lowering it it 100% has to be fixed. It annoys me just thinking of it LOL.

 

[moparracing]

Thanks Moparracing. Sounds very plausible and I didn't think of re-tensioning the leafs. I will hold off doing that for now but it's definitely a possibility. I do have JMBs stage 3 traction kit (no Caltracs) so I wonder if that would cause or hinder me from re-tensioning the springs, I wouldn't imagine so. Now that the truck has settled after the lowering it it 100% has to be fixed. It annoys me just thinking of it LOL.

i hear ya, it annoyed me to no end too....... de-arching the springs isn't as cheap as blocks, but looks better to me.

 

[Carlwalski]

I'm for what ever works and is the best - period. Will look into the springs but would still like some of these NASA grade blocks too :laugh: When you say "looks" better I don't quite understand, they both achieve the same thing and no one can tell the difference in spring sitting, if that makes sense? Not doubting you, just confused is all.

 

[Kevan]

Carl- I would even up the front before I began to offset the back.
If you do the offset, you begin putting unnecessary force/twist into the frame and other suspension components during hard cornering and wicked acceleration.
Also, it could give your truck problems when it comes time to get it aligned.
You don't want it looking like Goofy's car, right?

From the pictures you posted, it looks like you're close to Burt Munro's place.
Maybe he's got some ideas on how to level your front.

Wheredwhogo- The kit from McNaughty's is the same as every other kit out there.
Yes....even the ones from former and current vendors here.
They all lower your truck, but none of them do it correctly in the back.

BUT DON'T BELIEVE ME!!!!

Ask TNVIPER.
He's seen first-hand (on his own truck) the result of what those kits can do to a rear suspension.
My blocks fix all that.

 

[moparracing]

I'm for what ever works and is the best - period. Will look into the springs but would still like some of these NASA grade blocks too :laugh: When you say "looks" better I don't quite understand, they both achieve the same thing and no one can tell the difference in spring sitting, if that makes sense? Not doubting you, just confused is all.

i prefer it to look the same on both sides, didn't want a 1/2" block on one side - just don't look right.

 

[Carlwalski]

Carl- I would even up the front before I began to offset the back.
If you do the offset, you begin putting unnecessary force/twist into the frame and other suspension components during hard cornering and wicked acceleration.
Also, it could give your truck problems when it comes time to get it aligned.
You don't want it looking like Goofy's car, right?

Thank you Sir. That makes perfect sense. As I said, the rear is perfect, as level as an 18th century English snooker table so I don't really want to change things so thanks for the slap in the face! :laugh: How do you suggest I tackle this problem? Obviously re-tensioning the springs will change the look of the back so I'm guessing it's going to be in the front. I did have 2 rubber spacers that came with Stinkers kit to raise the springs, perhaps I could put 1 up top and 1 at the bottom of the spring to level it out (hopefully)? What would you do? The thing I like about you the most and have noticed since day 1 is your attention to detail and quality. Like myself you'd rather pay for the best regardless of cost as long as it wasn't cheap and for the sake of a bargain.


Moparracing - Touche brother, point taken. Although I hardly sit there looking at the blocks lol

 

[Kevan]

Carl- it sucks, but I would look at a different set of front springs.
Remove the ones you have, and double-check that they are the same height without any tension on them.

Also, check ride height without the front shocks attached (just remove the two bolts from the lower A-arm after you've extended the suspension/jacked it up). This takes the shocks out of the equation, if by some freak chance they are causing the unevenness up front.
Check your tire pressure too.

There are TONS of coil spring makers out there. You can send them your OEM springs and say, "get me this, but 1 inch lower" and they will do it, quickly. It's not very expensive either (but shipping will kinda suck for you....sorry). There might be someone in NZ who does springs. Check into that.

I haven't done much with the front. I've been focused on the back suspension.
After a few more phone calls and a bunch more research, I began designing these new rear blocks.

 

[moparracing]

Thank you Sir. That makes perfect sense. As I said, the rear is perfect, as level as an 18th century English snooker table so I don't really want to change things so thanks for the slap in the face! :laugh: How do you suggest I tackle this problem? Obviously re-tensioning the springs will change the look of the back so I'm guessing it's going to be in the front. I did have 2 rubber spacers that came with Stinkers kit to raise the springs, perhaps I could put 1 up top and 1 at the bottom of the spring to level it out (hopefully)? What would you do? The thing I like about you the most and have noticed since day 1 is your attention to detail and quality. Like myself you'd rather pay for the best regardless of cost as long as it wasn't cheap and for the sake of a bargain.


Moparracing - Touche brother, point taken. Although I hardly sit there looking at the blocks lol

my problem was different from yours, my whole drivers side was low by a 1/2" (not a hell of a lot)..... the de-arch on the passenger rear leveled my truck perfectly & drives great too.....

your's being unlevel in the front - rubber spacers may work in front...
either way, good luck fixing your leveling issues.

 

[Carlwalski]

Way to go Kevan, I'm all for improving the hobby and backing MoPar so cheers and beers to that.
Keep us posted as I'm sure one day you yourself will be a vendor selling some top of the range R&D handling kits.

As for the springs, true, I did think of that but crossed them off as the vendor noted they only offered the one spring so I thought chances of it being cut shorter after making multiple batches at the same height would be few and far between but will look into that if and when I get her raised. These are supposed to be 10% stiffer. Thanks guys and real sorry about going off track Kevan.


Moparracing - Cheers mate, I see, well, IMO you did the right thing then. Subtle and level and no one would ever know. I'll get it sorted one way or another lol

 

[FSTJACK]

Blocks and XX

Kevan,

Any group buys have to be preapproved by the Forum staff.

This is not going to happen as we have several vendors selling lowering blocks that work very well and are "engineered properly".


I have a pair of the "unengineered blocks" on my red truck and they work very well.

The vendors here on the Forum also sell this product for much less money than you are talking about.

Maybe you spent too much money on "engineering" to have realistic pricing on this item.

Anyone in the business knows that a difference in ride height from side to side is normal.
You can level the vehicle out, and with the fuel tank, battery, driver, steering column assembly, on one side of the vehicle, it will not stay level.
In less than 15000 miles the vehicle will be "leaning" again.
For a track car you can level the vehicle to get the last bit of suspension performance. But the set up for different types of driving, different tracks, different tires, ect, sometimes mandates that the vehicle is set up to lean. That is why the Nascar teams have many different cars for the different tracks. Also why so many are struggling with the "Car Of Tomorrow"
That is why you can set the srping height on a coilover shock to get this type of suspension tuning.
On a street vehicle it is not necessary. We are dealing with street vehicles here, not all out race cars.
I have set up my silver "RACE" truck with Koni coilovers and a true 4 link, and it will be miserable on the street.
The red street truck will have air bags to make minute changes and the leaf sprigs will stay where they are. I will preload the right rear so the left rear is down a little so I can get better launches on the track. It will look like it is sagging slightly on the left. This helps with the torque rollover on launch.


Pleae do not offer anything like this in the future without prior approval of the staff.

We are all for group buys and seeing our members/friends get a good deal.
We will also protect our vendors, from misinformation and overpriced merchandise.
The suspension kits that are being sold here by the vendors are well thought out, with regard spring rates, and spring heights, and safety. The materials used are very high quality in referance to the kits sold here.
I would even call them properly engineered.

If you would like to become a vendor please contact me.

Respectfully,

Jack O'Donnell

619-444-2360