Clutch Line/Slave cylinder

trw0042

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As some of you know i have been on here talking about my slave cylinder issues and about moving into a clutch kit upgrade

As i was explaining my issue in a email to dc performance he brought up something that i hadnt heard before but it makes since.
I always wondered how my stock master slave cylinders could break so fast when i drive the truck so easy most of the time. He said that my clutch line could be to close to the exhaust.

I have a B&B Triflo with the high flo cats and i am wondering is there a fix to this problem? Also as i am waiting for my next stock slave cylinder to break since it was replaced under warranty so i can order my clutch upgrade kit (yes money is tight i am at least postponing my clutch upgrade a few weeks as i know it will break soon like always), will this same problem create issues in the new clutch set up if i dont find the answer to my clutch line and exhaust? Do i need to be changing something up somehow on my exhaust or clutch line?

The last thing i want to do is spend all the money to upgrade the clutch and everything just to have this same issue because my exhaust or clutch line is in the wrong place

Thanks for your help everyone

05' Red Reg cab, BB Triflo Exhuast/high flow cats, KN CAI, Xmetal Software Upgrade
 
The main difference is that the cylinder is plastic in the RC. The upgrade kit is from a Viper and it is billet. The plastic is much more prone to heat damage, but in day to day use it can still fail due to the pressure.

So if you can visualize heat and pressure in two different containers i.e. plastic versus billet, well you get the picture...maybe the next time it fails you can purchase the billet parts and have the dealership do the work under warranty but you pay for the part...??? Talk to the dealership some will work with you on these kind of things.
 
Well as we talked about earlier, I had stock exhaust when mine went out. I swapped to the Viper one it was great then I was starting to have the same problems so got to asking around and was told to check the fluid...yup it was bad???? Why .......The line was ran down and was too close to the mids that I had put in since then. So changed fluid out to a high boiling point fluid, moved the line,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, still having problems. So I asked around again. Found out that my B&M shifter might have shifted. So loosened it up and went through the gears I drove it around the block loose going through the gears then tightened the base down. All is good now. The upgrade is well worth the money. Good luck man.
 
Prof said:
The main difference is that the cylinder is plastic in the RC. The upgrade kit is from a Viper and it is billet. The plastic is much more prone to heat damage, but in day to day use it can still fail due to the pressure.

So if you can visualize heat and pressure in two different containers i.e. plastic versus billet, well you get the picture...maybe the next time it fails you can purchase the billet parts and have the dealership do the work under warranty but you pay for the part...??? Talk to the dealership some will work with you on these kind of things.
Prof, the warranty is only for the first 12 months or 12,000 miles on clutches.
 
sleeper said:
Prof, the warranty is only for the first 12 months or 12,000 miles on clutches.


Good point! I changed mine at 8k: clutch, slave and master and flywheel...but almost totally because I could not shift hard into third...but the full change out helped greatly and with Boomers Gen IV shifter...I can now focus on all the other problems!

Go immediately to the Viper set up.
 
GriffsSRT said:
Well as we talked about earlier, I had stock exhaust when mine went out. I swapped to the Viper one it was great then I was starting to have the same problems so got to asking around and was told to check the fluid...yup it was bad???? Why .......The line was ran down and was too close to the mids that I had put in since then. So changed fluid out to a high boiling point fluid, moved the line,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, still having problems. So I asked around again. Found out that my B&M shifter might have shifted. So loosened it up and went through the gears I drove it around the block loose going through the gears then tightened the base down. All is good now. The upgrade is well worth the money. Good luck man.




Damn1 Griff answered all questions in one breath!:D :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 

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