Clutch Opinions

Stanimal

Stanimal

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I need to replace my clutch and hydraulics. I see 2 real options. Now, my truck is mostly stock, will remain this way power wise for another year or so. I drive mostly highway, not much stop and go and am not concerned with peddle pressure or hard grabbing. I am not usually hard on the clutch, but do have my moments where I shift fast and let it out hard.

JMB's full package, Centerforce and viper hydraulics for $1269 plus shipping

JTSVP Spec stage 1, JTSVP shifter, and JMB's viper hydraulics for $1320 plus shipping

Who has used either the spec or the centerforce? Even better if you have had both.

I almost feel the cheaper Spec stage 1 will be more then plenty for my old man style driving, and leave me with enough to buy the shifter I want, however I absolutely do not want to do this again for a few years. I am sick of clutch and more-so slave problems. Seems like every time I let the truck sit for a month or more I have a leaking slave so I will definately be switching that for the Viper.
 
Well good luck with this as everyone on here is going to there own opinion. I have had both sets of hydralics and also have had spec and center force. I like the center force and JTSVP hydralics. Viper hydraulics are proven to be very reliable and hold up. Some have had issues with JTSVP going out. I have had no issues with mine and on top of that he has since switched to a different unit which is improved. Jtsvp had a better feel and a lighter pedal pressure with same exact clutch. It is also adjustable to fine tune how you like it to release. As far as clutch goes spend the money and a spec stage 2 or 2+ that way once you do add more power you will have no worries about clutch holding up. I had the 2+ with hi Jtsvp hydralics and pedal pressure was lighter than stock. Just my 2 cents good luck


Oh yeah if you don't have a shifter already put it at the top of your list such a huge improvement
 
I'm very happy with the stock hydraulics at this point. I had a JTSVP master fail on me, and a JTSVP slave fail in another truck. These were older JTSVP systems and the system has been upgraded from what I understand. As far as clutch, do what Charlie said, buy more clutch than you need so you don't have to do it again when you do add more power.
 
CenterForce all the way and Viper hydraulics. If you wanna save for that shifter. I'd honestly put in a stock Mopar clutch. Many have gone 100,000 miles on this clutch with track racing, daily driving, and pulling all being the norm. I've installed and driven many stock setups and honestly love them. CenterForce has been awesome to me for at least 15 years in many vehicles. Their compound in the clutch facing is second to none and I personally bought a used (20k mile) clutch from a member for my original 6 speed conversion at 60,000 miles. It took me to 120k miles!! 60k miles of racing, racing, daily driving, road trips, Get togethers, and more racing! Never a hiccup:burnout:
 
i actually agree about the stock clutch - made by LUK. i put 95k miles on my first one and A LOT of racing...

however, i have had both the spec1 and spec2+ and i wouldn't bother with the stage1... i'm currently running the 2+ with oem flywheel (which i prefer) and jtsvp hydraulics. i will say that i just put a new slave in mine as the other one went out, but i bought this truck used and don't know the previous owner history, and i've been driving it about a year and a half and have driven it pretty hard at times, so i don't automatically attribute that to a poor product - a few years and several tracks days is bound to break something...

i have a fidanza flywheel that needs to be resurfaced (i think they can be? there's bolts in the back - someone who's had one could tell, i'm sure - i never have, but i prefer the heavier weight of the stock clutch for towing) i was going to sell it if it's worth anything??

all of that said, i did have the longest experience with the stock hydraulics and stock clutch... and in a mostly stock truck, i wouldn't "upgrade" as there's no point, IMO.
 
Actually almost all cutch parts by any manufacturer is LUK ;)
Your Fidenza shouldn't be resurfaced, yet you can install a new friction plate on them and it'll be good as new. Rebuild able alum flywheel :)
 
Just don't go spec 3+ or a McLeod unless you really need it.. These clutches are of the on or off phlisopy, no slipping these bad boys...which takes away from the (streetability)...
 
viperhauler said:
i guess that's what i meant..

they worth anything?
Click to expand...

Yessir. Contrary to old folklore they are great on the street. I can simply ease our of the clutch with no gas and not a shake, shudder, bitch or moan. It was a important part of my build and I usually install then for customers unless they simply don't wasn't or care for that extra umphh:D
For the price, a new Mopar clutch kit is what half of my clutch jobs for others have consisted of. Believe it or not, the McLeod street twin is very friendly as far as the on/off history of a tough clutch and with a reasonably soft pedal. The Spec clutches are not as forgiving at all and will glaze fast.
 
I have a 3+ in my mustang and yes it is very on and off. Stage 2+ in truck drove stock. I have a mcloed going in next as I need it.
 
Interested in buying that flywheel if you wanna sell it. Pm me about it. And i have had too many stock pressure plates fail. Not going down that road again. I think ill do a spec stage 2
 
I'd take a Fidanza off someone's hands if they were looking to get rid of one.
 
VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
Yessir. Contrary to old folklore they are great on the street. I can simply ease our of the clutch with no gas and not a shake, shudder, bitch or moan. It was a important part of my build and I usually install then for customers unless they simply don't wasn't or care for that extra umphh:D
For the price, a new Mopar clutch kit is what half of my clutch jobs for others have consisted of. Believe it or not, the McLeod street twin is very friendly as far as the on/off history of a tough clutch and with a reasonably soft pedal. The Spec clutches are not as forgiving at all and will glaze fast.
Click to expand...


I'm not positive but I don't think the street twin was even made yet when I was playing with Ferds...I think it may even be their only (street)type clutch ???
 
I drive tractor trailers, which are on and off to begin with. 2 of the one's I drive have puck clutches, even worse. The on off aspect I am fine with. A stiff peddle I am also fine with. I just do not want to pull this damn thing out again next year. I have had only stick shift cars/trucks for 10 years now, 200,000 + miles on each of them, except this truck. I have even babied this one and it still screwed me.


So from what I read and have been told, JTSVP hydros are the best, but not as reliable as the viper hydros.

And it's in the air as far as Spec 2 or Centerforce.


mopar-or-no-car said:
Just don't go spec 3+ or a McLeod unless you really need it.. These clutches are of the on or off phlisopy, no slipping these bad boys...which takes away from the (streetability)...
Click to expand...
 
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