Coolant Temps driving me crazy! Help...

[Rickspeed]

I will give you guys full breakdown. I installed b&g stage 2, then a couple months later installed my 170 degree thermostat. Now this is the part driving me crazy.

1. It will get down to 170 is when the hood is open at idle after driving it.
2. It will stay at 170 while driving on highway if ouside temp is 65 or below.
3. On startup, and leaving it to sit at idle it will go up to 200 and fans don't kick on, drive it park it, fans come on. But will sit at 200 until I open hood.

Any help on this would be great, it's driving me bonkers. :dontknow:

 

[includemeout]

I will give you guys full breakdown. I installed b&g stage 2, then a couple months later installed my 170 degree thermostat. Now this is the part driving me crazy.

1. It will get down to 170 is when the hood is open at idle after driving it.
2. It will stay at 170 while driving on highway if ouside temp is 65 or below.
3. On startup, and leaving it to sit at idle it will go up to 200 and fans don't kick on, drive it park it, fans come on. But will sit at 200 until I open hood.

Any help on this would be great, it's driving me bonkers. :dontknow:

Sounds like you need to send it in to have the fan progaming adjusted to turn on sooner , probably just a miss in the programing. The t stat is there to help the engine warm up, once open it does nothing and on a hot day you could run at 220 no matter what, also when you stop moving residual heat builds up and the fan will come on untill the temp goes down to the programed temp is reached (as long as the engine is running)

 

[kickinassrt-10]

I spoke to Dave at b&g about this a few weeks ago. Basically a 170 t-stat really doesn't drop temp it opens earlier and really only does that while air is being forced in (like hwy driving). He said the fans are designed to come on at 223 or 231 degrees One of the 2 but don't remember exactly. So what you are experiencing is normal. 170 only really helps while air is being forced in. I still haven't changed mine out and I'm at a constant 200 all day with no fans kicking on.

 

[Rickspeed]

Thanks, I was gunna call them tomorrow, but I guess it won't be necessary.

 

[HOT RAM]

Send it to DC Performance and let them do it right


I have had both the B&G and my current DC PerformanceStage II
DC tune is MUCH better :rock:
mine NEVER gets over 185

 

[kickinassrt-10]

Send it to DC Performance and let them do it right


I have had both the B&G and my current DC PerformanceStage II
DC tune is MUCH better :rock:
mine NEVER gets over 185

B&G sold their tune to DC. B&G also tunes mopar computers so in essence by going to B&G you're going to the source....no middle man,they are the kings of mopar tuning and many other models!
Also the engine performs better when it is hotter....so staying around 200 is just right and what the factory determined as a optimum operating temp...

 

[Rickspeed]

B&G sold their tune to DC. B&G also tunes mopar computers so in essence by going to B&G you're going to the source....no middle man,they are the kings of mopar tuning and many other models!
Also the engine performs better when it is hotter....so staying around 200 is just right and what the factory determined as a optimum operating temp...

This is why i sent mine to B&G also, because you cut out the middle man. DC gets your ECU then sends it to B&G.

 

[viperhauler]

i'm sorry...did you say something...

your avatar has my attention....

 

[kickinassrt-10]

i'm sorry...did you say something...

your avatar has my attention....

You crack me up man....I think 8 out of 10 of your posts are women related....lol. Can't hate on that

 

[Rickspeed]

i'm sorry...did you say something...

your avatar has my attention....

LOL :rock:

 

[viperhauler]

You crack me up man....I think 8 out of 10 of your posts are women related....lol. Can't hate on that

shit just keeps "popping up"....like that.....funny how that works.....

 

[LoveThisTruck]

This is why i sent mine to B&G also, because you cut out the middle man. DC gets your ECU then sends it to B&G.

DC tunes the ECU right there in their shop.

 

[Hatedonmostly]

So do you have to run the 170 tstat with the B&G stage 2 ???? I have one and ready to put in soon.

 

[kickinassrt-10]

So do you have to run the 170 tstat with the B&G stage 2 ???? I have one and ready to put in soon.

Haven't put mine in yet and my fan never comes on.
Yea DC does do it at their shop but B&G sold them the tune they use. I went with B&G bc they claim to tap into more parameters and better hp gains plus their customer service is unmatched and amazing!

 

[jrangel]

DC tunes the ECU right there in their shop.

ditto

 

[Hatedonmostly]

What gains has anyone seen from the B&G stage 2 on dyno. Kinda want to know if anyone off hand knows. On the website They said up to 80hp is that true kinda sounds like alot.

 

[SANTEEN]

shit just keeps "popping up"....like that.....funny how that works.....

The only problem...Dan is GAY.

 

[Prof]

Gentlemen...there is nothing wrong with engine temperatures of 200 or 220 for that matter...

And there is nothing wrong with full bodied women either!

Get over it!

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Gentlemen...there is nothing wrong with engine temperatures of 200 or 220 for that matter...

And there is nothing wrong with full bodied women either!

Get over it!

Not quite true. Basicallt the manufacturers have to comply with EPA and CARB before an engine is released to make sure it is compliant with their current standards as far as emissions and efficiency. They have the cooling fans come on later and T-stats open later to keep the engine where it has less pollutants and to let the catalysts fire correctly. A cooler engine will always outperform a warmer engine due to many variables. Intake air charge, cylinder temp, piston ring tolerances increase with alot of heat and oil temp causing frictional power loss. There are many, many contributing factors that affect an engine's performance at a certain block temp. Heat soak of supporting components is also reduced with temp.

One note to the OP is to make sure and change cooloant periodically as it breaks down as oil would, though not as frequent. Also a MAJOR overlooked item is the radiator. Being an open grille truck it is subject to all the dragonflies,crickets,grasshoppers, grass, dirt/debris that decreases the efficiency of the radiator cooling. YOU SHOULD see a drop in temp although not the 170 the T-stat opens at. My past experiences with other performance vehicles is the guages nowadays are inaccurate and temps measured with a laser temp reader or even the ECM's actual temp from the sensor differs from the guage reading and is 95% of the time higher. I've seen many cars about 20 degrees higher than the ECM actually was seeing. If you've been around cars a while you can tell when you pop the hood how warm a vehicle really is. Is it searing the skin on your face? Cool, probably not overheating! LOL One should really due a thorough cleaning of the radiator inside and out every couple years or 15K miles to keep the temps down. A good flushing of the aluminum heat extractor fins on the radiator with water will remove most varmints and debris from the radiator and do your A/C condensor as well as it is usually worse. Your 10 will run cooler and A/C will be COLDER! Hope this helps any interested.:burnout:

 

[Prof]

... A cooler engine will always outperform a warmer engine due to many variables.

You are just plain wrong with this statement...most of us learn to not make absolute statements early in life.

So in my mind this erodes the credibility of the rest of your comments...

I presume you understand my statement.