Cooling temp video

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

It has not gotten above 85* yet but I did install a 170* therm when I did all my mods and I have not gone above 180* oil or coolant yet but I need to see when it gets into the 90's to see if it really makes a difference, so far it is 20* cooler than it ever ran before. Used to run 200* on both gauges before just like Scott's. Running M1 15-50 with Viper filter also...

Mine runs 180 both gauges cracka!! Lol

 

[Itsmekylep]

Mine is all over the board. I drove about 40 miles at about 85mph and mine ran about 210 and 210.

 

[CRexSRT10]

Is the install of a 170 or 180 thermostat very difficult?

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Mine is all over the board. I drove about 40 miles at about 85mph and mine ran about 210 and 210.

That's to dang high, lol. We're talking 30* warmer and although coolant won't boil, it does break down. Oil doesn't care for being so warm either but as long as it never goes above that its still 100% good by factory standards. But so are our power steering hoses and oil cooler lines, etc

 

[hawk02]

Is the install of a 170 or 180 thermostat very difficult?

Not bad, just one PITA bold under the housing and then make sure you bleed the air out of the system on top of the housing.:rock:

 

[Chuck B]

Road trip over the weekend, 500 miles each way with a 5x10 closed uhaul.

On the way up, 60 F ambient, was running a very steady 190-ish on each gauge at 70 mph.
On the way home, 80 F ambient, running a cycling 200 to 210-ish on both at 70 mph.

Need to throw in a 170 t-stat.

If your coolant temp is getting higher than your current Thermostat installing a lower temp thermostat doesn't help. Your current Thermo is fully open (should be) at 200-210 and so will your lower Thermostat. Lower Thermostat does not increase cooling capacity of the system.

 

[SlvrSnake]

You need a tune take advantage of the 170 t stat. Not hard. Suction out about 4 inches or of coolant from the radiator n then remove upper hose from t stat housing inlet. Use a torx bit on the bolts or deep socket for the. Bottom pita bolt. You gotta feel your way into the dark hole

 

[Itsmekylep]

Yessir I believe it's beneficial to run 15/50 vs 0/40 or 10/30. I have used 10/40 when I could find 15/50 and it was great as well.

Just thought I'd let everyone know who cared that I just changed out the Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic that my cap called for and used Mobil 1 15/50 that venomous suggested and I'd say 80% of my random engine noise is gone. Very helpful info :rock:

 

[SrtBrad]

One of the downfalls of using a 170 t stat is you don't burn off the fuel dilation and moisture in your oil unless your temps reach over 200. If using a 170 T Stat change your oil more frequently.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

One of the downfalls of using a 170 t stat is you don't burn off the fuel dilation and moisture in your oil unless your temps reach over 200. If using a 170 T Stat change your oil more frequently.

This is is only partially true sir. The oil should be changed at 3000 miles or less regardless since we have no cam bearings and oil is our bearing. Moisture will evaporate under normal operating temp. Doesn't need to be near boiling point to evaporate. Similar to leaving a cup of water outside during a 100* day. It will still evaporate although at a slower rate than boiling.

Guys who run an excessively rich A/F for n2o or boost should change oil more frequently due to fuel dilution, but not from moisture in oil. :burnout: