Crank pulley comes loose

mysrt10

mysrt10

Been there, done that
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2 days ago my old serpentine belt jumped off going home. it damaged the belt so i got a new one. installed the new one today fired the truck up i hear it jump off again then shut it down and i find that the crank pulley is loose. i retighten it reinstall the beltand the f-ing belt jumps off again and i cant hear the pulley spinning after i shut it down again. what do i need to do? can i use locktite on the bolt? how much torque does the pulley need? please help.
 
The torque spec for the crankshaft vibration damper is 130 ft lbs.

There was a TSB on some of the trucks ( I believe it was on 04's)

If it has gouged up the crank you may need to have the crank and or damper replaced or possibly fixed. It is a taper fit ( no keys or pins, although that can be added)

Do you have a warranty?? If so it should go to the Dealer.

If you continue to run it with the loose /bad pulley it will just ruin it more.
 
mysrt10 said:
2 days ago my old serpentine belt jumped off going home. it damaged the belt so i got a new one. installed the new one today fired the truck up i hear it jump off again then shut it down and i find that the crank pulley is loose. i retighten it reinstall the beltand the f-ing belt jumps off again and i cant hear the pulley spinning after i shut it down again. what do i need to do? can i use locktite on the bolt? how much torque does the pulley need? please help.
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If it were mine I would remove and inspect the damper and crank mating surface. If withen spec, I would use Geeen Loctite on the damper and blue Locktite on the damper bolt. Don't know the torque on 04 model though.


.
 
supercar1of1 said:

If it were mine I would remove and inspect the damper and crank mating surface. If withen spec, I would use Geeen Loctite on the damper and blue Locktite on the damper bolt. Don't know the torque on 04 model though.


.
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If it is only lightly scored a little hand lapping will help restore the fit of the tapper. Caution, do not get the lapping compound in the engine, only use small amounts and lap it in slowly, cleaning the used compound of the damper and crank frequenly. remember to only use very small amounts to prevent it fom getting into the engine. If that works , lock tite as John has said, change the oil and maybe it will hold.
 
JB Weld.......just kidding, don't even think about doing that.

Bill.
 
well i pulled the pulley/balancer off and its f-ed up:mad: the crank has some marks on it but i really cant tell if the crank is also f-ed up. does anybody have some specs for the diameter?
 
mysrt10 said:
well i pulled the pulley/balancer off and its f-ed up:mad: the crank has some marks on it but i really cant tell if the crank is also f-ed up. does anybody have some specs for the diameter?
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Sorry to hear that.:( Might as well look into an ATI damper, they can give you the specs. Just Google ATI damper.



.
 
mysrt10 said:
well i pulled the pulley/balancer off and its f-ed up:mad: the crank has some marks on it but i really cant tell if the crank is also f-ed up. does anybody have some specs for the diameter?
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supercar1of1 said:

Sorry to hear that.:( Might as well look into an ATI damper, they can give you the specs. Just Google ATI damper.



.
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Ask ATI about resizing the fit with valve lapping compound. As you lap it you will see where the fit is lacking , or when you get the fit correct. You may want to paint it with Dykem or just a felt pen to see where the high and low spots are and how bad it may or may not be.( the lows will still have color and the highs will not. When complete fit is obtianed it will be equall with no color on it.
 
you need to measure the crank snout with a caliper and check for any deviations.. post up your results. mine did this once too, i replaced the crank and got the new one keyed..

and there are two different size bolts for the balancers, i will have to look up the trq specs.
 
having trouble measuring from under the truck but 1.375ish to 1.385ish crankshaft o.d. taper front to back:dontknow:
 
your best bet its to pay the dealership with a qualified viper tech to take a look at it , ohterwise you could be asking for trouble;)

more than likely you are ok, but it pays to have a good mechanic double check it, now the ATI is an excellent replacement but a touch on the dollar side, around $600 , but is top of the line for the vipers, much better than the oem
 
I got lucky. When I pulled the truck apart for the paxton I was getting ready to pin the crank and went to pull off the large crank bolt..... Well I loosened it with a quick tist of my ratchet..... maybe 50 lbs of pressure, AT MOST... but thank god i checked it and its all good.....
 
Get the jig and pins from Roe, pin your crank, torque the bolt, and forget about it. Seems to me this would be a simple, quick, low cost, long term solution. I did it when I installed my Roe, and expect you could complete the job reasonably easy in a day.

Unless your crank and pulley are worn from slippage to the point that the pulley won't re-install reasaonably square, seems to me this would work.

oldguy
 
If your still unsure about it bro, put it on a rollback and bring it to my shop. We got one of the best viper techs in the southeast. If you have any questions call me at 912-552-7204.
 
I measured the i.d. of the balancer and it's 1.458 at it's widest. I'm going to go with an ATI instead of oem. I saw DC performance has it for 248.
 
oldguysrt10 said:
Get the jig and pins from Roe, pin your crank, torque the bolt, and forget about it. Seems to me this would be a simple, quick, low cost, long term solution. I did it when I installed my Roe, and expect you could complete the job reasonably easy in a day.

Unless your crank and pulley are worn from slippage to the point that the pulley won't re-install reasaonably square, seems to me this would work.

oldguy
Click to expand...

I agree with this except the forget about it part. I pulled mine apart 2 weeks ago and with the pinned hub and torqued bolt it still wasnt very tight after maybe 5000kms on it. I think it would be a good idea to retorque it every oil change. Thats what Im gonna do when mine goes back together, even though it will have a keyed ATI balancer this time.
 
yellowfever#154 said:
I agree with this except the forget about it part. I pulled mine apart 2 weeks ago and with the pinned hub and torqued bolt it still wasnt very tight after maybe 5000kms on it. I think it would be a good idea to retorque it every oil change. Thats what Im gonna do when mine goes back together, even though it will have a keyed ATI balancer this time.
Click to expand...


Blue locktite should take care of that.:rock:

.
 
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