Crank Snout a bit rough.. Now?

Mine was not that bad, and the new crank (updated)they use has a bigger bolt. So it your gonna stay fi replace the crank if you where just gonna stay stock you may get away with it for awhile. What people misunderstand about this v10 is the balance is very critical. Yah it will run good for a while but when you do want to start forging or whatever your gonna end up doing so much machine work because everything is gonna be out of round. Just fyi.
 
I borrowed a kit from a member on here. I pinned it myself. Now with these pics one of the pins does look a bit inward of where it ought to be. The other looks ok to me. Well as far as the vibration, I didn't really feel anything, but when I started hearing pinging/popping sounds at idle. I found that the pulley was wobbling pretty damn bad. Bad enought that the belt was jumping teeth as it went around. At least this is what I believe was making the popping sound.
The truck is an 05.
I really am not ready to pull this crank out. I don't have a lift so this would be a suck. I would almost rather pull the motor of need be. But, If I am gonna do that I would bring it to a builder. Too bad I cant afford that now.
In the mean time if I buy a new balancer rotate the pins 90 deg and repin. What could happen if the crank is damaged? Either way if I do a crank I am doing internals so why not drive it another 10k first?
 
Because by that time you might as well get a new motor. You arent gonna feel the vibration the motor is. This is an aluminum block the are not as forgiving or rebuildable as steel blocks. It's your truck. the crank is only 1300 bucks and you can do it inframe just jack it up high enough.


McLuvin said:
I borrowed a kit from a member on here. I pinned it myself. Now with these pics one of the pins does look a bit inward of where it ought to be. The other looks ok to me. Well as far as the vibration, I didn't really feel anything, but when I started hearing pinging/popping sounds at idle. I found that the pulley was wobbling pretty damn bad. Bad enought that the belt was jumping teeth as it went around. At least this is what I believe was making the popping sound.
The truck is an 05.
I really am not ready to pull this crank out. I don't have a lift so this would be a suck. I would almost rather pull the motor of need be. But, If I am gonna do that I would bring it to a builder. Too bad I cant afford that now.
In the mean time if I buy a new balancer rotate the pins 90 deg and repin. What could happen if the crank is damaged? Either way if I do a crank I am doing internals so why not drive it another 10k first?
 
If the crank is damaged for sure the mains will go away in no time at all...worst case would be punching a window in the block...that would be catastrophic...right now the pistons are probably fine, the rods are probably fine but I would bet the crank needs work.

Option one: Pull the engine, forge the bottom end, Tony can get you a billet crank, forged rods, pistons and some sexy mains...do a little head work and roll.

Option two: Pull the engine, drop the paxton, leave everything that is within spec replace anything that is problematic. Stay away from FI until you forge the bottom end.

Option three: Put the HB back on use as much duct tape as you can buy and then add a little bailing wire and some super glue and hope!

I only know one thing for sure: If you are wrong in guessing it will hold together, you will spend twice as much getting it back running.
 
Devildawg, are you saying by driving it if there is crank damage it will cause me to need more machine work when building it?
 
I have had to fix this problem before, if you can find a minute to call us we can go over your options.

We are on the road headed to Mopars @ the Strip and can take your call in the next 3 hours if need be.

Viper Mobile Tech Line @ 310.597.6295
 
DC is one of the premier viper engine experts on the west coast...they will shoot straight with you.
 
Where can I get a crank for $1300 bones? Stupid question- Can I just put forged pistons and rods in the holes while Im there? Don't pull the motor, don't do any machine work. The motor only has 7500 mi. What am I risking/loosing? Only other option for me is to just put her back to stock and sell it. I can't stop messing with it. It might as well be a work then.
 
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McLuvin said:
Where can I get a crank for $1300 bones? Stupid question- Can I just put forged pistons and rods in the holes while Im there? Don't pull the motor, don't do any machine work. The motor only has 7500 mi. What am I risking/loosing? Only other option for me is to just put her back to stock and sell it. I can't stop messing with it. It might as well be a work then.
Talk with dragon if your gonna go with a stocker crank(mines stock only good thing about our motors is the cranks forged.as far as not keying it:confused: )/ stinker an the rest for higher end. I know I am good for at least 800hp without worrys between roe/nos. So it is up to you on how good of a job you think you can do.
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32945&highlight=pics+in-frame+build Got any questions pm me.
 
Very nice build. I wish I had that kind of expiriance. I really would like to do the same thing but I am not too sure I can find enough sorces to complete the job myslef.
 
i'm on the stock crank and i'm knocking on the door of 800HP 786 to be exact non keyed
 
505'sFastestViper. said:
1400 hp stock crank......!!!!!!!
So you kept the crank and upgraded mains right? Cause I know the crank is good like you said but the mains aren't. Correct?
 
If you dont want to spend any money, and dont want to park it, then you really have no other choice but to just polish the crank as best as possible. I would at the least get a new balancer and Locktite the bolt, checking it every so often till you are financially ready for a build. Just understand there is a possibility for further damage...but I would guess its a slight chance. To me it just looks like it got loose and spun off (not necessarily damaging further, but who knows really..)
 

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