Crank Snout a bit rough.. Now?

McLuvin

McLuvin

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Ok guys.. I always receive good advice on here. So here goes another. My crank pulley bolt backed out a few turns. It snapped the pins and made a bit of a mess of the crank and balancer. I really am not ready to rebuild this motor yet, unless I am looking for a devorce. :shot: So, what are the odds I can emory cloth this crank and replace the balancer. Will I be able to get the balancer tight enough with the crank bolt to keep it in place? It did still require a balancer puller to get it off. Not even a thousand miles after I finished the Paxton...grrr :mad: Guess just wacking the bolt with a 1/2 impact didn't cut it.
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Wow yours is really chewed up, but I think you should be fine clean it up locktite a new on on there and ya should be good to go as long as it fits snugly. apparently the ATI damper fits real snug might be a fix... Mine came off several years ago and was chewed up but not as bad as yours, all we did was get a new pulley locktite it down and 20k miles later shes good as new..
 
Oh Man

Hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but the dampner and crankshaft/snout are history.

They are so galled there is probably no saving them.

The dampner is gone for sure
.
The crank snout could possibly be metal sprayed and turned down.
This would require removal from the engine.

When you installed the blower did you "pin" the dampner to the crank.

It also does not look like you used locktite on the bolt threads.

Depending on the year the torque required is quite heavy on the bolt.
 
Well, this is a pretty tricky issue. While I have had a divorce in my past, I understand your effort to avoid one!

Bottom line in my mind (and I have never stayed at a Holliday Inn Express) is that you may well be able to get the balancer to stay on...but the cost may be that the crank is going to get chewed up more than it already is.

I would always look at something like this as an opportunity to pull the engine and forge the internals if you have not already done so. If I read your post right, you are just a few thousand miles into the FI world...more of that will just bring you closer to boom and with a crank that might be rotating in a non-standard way...you may be making the problem much worse.

I may be totally wrong...but that would be my approach...
 
Bro just clean it up slap a new dampener on there and you will be fine... I know everyone is going to tell you to rebuild etc etc.. the dealer told me that as well they wanted 10k to fix it there way.. In the end it cost me 250 out the door, and its solid... You have nothing to lose by cleaning it up and bolting on a new one... Just lock her down tight and re pin it.. and keep an eye on it
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
buy a new crank dude, sorry, but I can do ya billet one:D
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LOL... gotta watch this guy with both eyes.....;) :D :p
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
Report just in Breaking news!!!!!!!!!!!

I have crank snout filler putty, $900 a pint, free shipping:D
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Is this the red 50 micron, or the blue 30 micron ?
 
gonna need more than putty.
 
The way that thing has been shaking around and vibrating there is a chance the crank could be cracked.

The crank needs to come out, wet maged for crack checking, and then properly repaired, if you cannot see getting a new one.

I have seen this a lot and you might get away with it on a 4 cyl Nissan, but not a blown hotrod V10.
 
FSTJACK said:
The way that thing has been shaking around and vibrating there is a chance the crank could be cracked.
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Thats what I was wondering... what the rest looks like now.
 
I am going with the cheaper half of the crowd on this one. I would do the emery cloth to it to smooth out the gouges a lil and replace the HB. These engines, as most nowadays are internally balanced and the VIBRATION DAMPER/HARMONIC BALANCER is not to balance the engine but to keep the varying harmonics from producing a vibration now and then. Have any of you driven a car internally balanced without a damper? I have and have not seen it tear anything up IF taken care of swiftly. IF the rubber in the balancer was rotted and missing a piece causing vibration that's a different story, but one spinning on the crank shouldn't produce any kind of bearing wear as it's not increasing vibration so much as it's spinning and creating friction that eats metal. The pin job doesn't look correct for some reason. Who did the pinning of the crank? And finally, anytime you remove and replace a Vibration Damper or Harmonic balancer the crank bolt should be replaced as well as they are a TTY bolt ( torque to yield) meaning it streches as it reaches it's torqued value. Just like a head bolt set should always be replaced. :D

EDIT: After looking at the pics for a bit I am sure those pins are not in the correct place. They are too far inboard of the crank to the bolt whereas any I have seen or done split the difference between the crank and HB? There is no way those pins were preventing the HB form spinning?
 
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McLuvin said:
Ok guys.. I always receive good advice on here. So here goes another. My crank pulley bolt backed out a few turns. It snapped the pins and made a bit of a mess of the crank and balancer. I really am not ready to rebuild this motor yet, unless I am looking for a devorce. :shot: So, what are the odds I can emory cloth this crank and replace the balancer. Will I be able to get the balancer tight enough with the crank bolt to keep it in place? It did still require a balancer puller to get it off. Not even a thousand miles after I finished the Paxton...grrr :mad: Guess just wacking the bolt with a 1/2 impact didn't cut it.
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what year truck do you have ?:dontknow:
 
What happened to good old keyed crank snouts and balancers? They seem to be disappearing. I did a challenger for a buddy several weeks ago on a 6.1 and I'll be damned if it had NO keyway as well? They expect engines to produce more power yet rely on a press fit to stay in place and not spin? :dontknow:
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
What happened to good old keyed crank snouts and balancers? They seem to be disappearing. I did a challenger for a buddy several weeks ago on a 6.1 and I'll be damned if it had NO keyway as well? They expect engines to produce more power yet rely on a press fit to stay in place and not spin? :dontknow:
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When we did the crank on the red truck motor we double blower keyed it.

Some of us still know how to do it....:rock::rock::rock:
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
I am going with the cheaper half of the crowd on this one. I would do the emery cloth to it to smooth out the gouges a lil and replace the HB. These engines, as most nowadays are internally balanced and the VIBRATION DAMPER/HARMONIC BALANCER is not to balance the engine but to keep the varying harmonics from producing a vibration now and then. Have any of you driven a car internally balanced without a damper? I have and have not seen it tear anything up IF taken care of swiftly. IF the rubber in the balancer was rotted and missing a piece causing vibration that's a different story, but one spinning on the crank shouldn't produce any kind of bearing wear as it's not increasing vibration so much as it's spinning and creating friction that eats metal. The pin job doesn't look correct for some reason. Who did the pinning of the crank? And finally, anytime you remove and replace a Vibration Damper or Harmonic balancer the crank bolt should be replaced as well as they are a TTY bolt ( torque to yield) meaning it streches as it reaches it's torqued value. Just like a head bolt set should always be replaced. :D

EDIT: After looking at the pics for a bit I am sure those pins are not in the correct place. They are too far inboard of the crank to the bolt whereas any I have seen or done split the difference between the crank and HB? There is no way those pins were preventing the HB form spinning?
Click to expand...


Certainly your choice...be very careful...and we all hope that it works for you with no problems. Seriously, please keep us posted.


I would never get a good nights sleep...but hell, I haven't had a good nights sleep in 30 years!
 
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