current draw

Voodoo

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My truck lately has been killing the battery if let to sit for more than a week. I put a new battery in thinking it was time to just replace it and it went dead too. Charged it up, put my meter on it and it shows a 1.5 amp draw. I have yet to pull the fuses to test what is drawing the power but I was just curious as to what yours draws just sitting?
 
1.5 would not be abnormal.
draw is radio and ecm.
whats your voltage like when running?

i figure .5 would be normal
13 to 14 when running


1.5 amps just sounds way to high to me for the ecm and radio
 
anything more than 30ma is too much, make sure you wait 10 mins after turning igntion off to test for draws. all the modules need to go into "sleep mode"
 
Nothing wrong with the truck, you are not supposed to let it sit that long. Especially out drivng a new Ford:aetsch::aetsch:
 
I keep a trickle charger on mine when not in use.
 
it found out your driving a turd instead and is getting even :aetsch:
 
I was out of state for vac, and 11 days later truck had slight issue starting, went another 2 weeks and it got worse.

I had it load tested and was charged full but low on reserve amps, so I just bought a new battery.
 
here is the thing, to check the draw you have to unplug the wire. when you unplug it and reconnect the multimeter, everything starts up. ecm, radio, cd player checking for cd's.
if you sat the multimeter on it and waited a bit i bet it would drop. i still would say 1.5 is not a big deal. my light bar was offered with a solar panel on top to combat parasitic draw. its rated at 2 amps, turned off. want to know for sure? pull the raido and ecm fuses and check.
 
here is the thing, to check the draw you have to unplug the wire. when you unplug it and reconnect the multimeter, everything starts up. ecm, radio, cd player checking for cd's.
if you sat the multimeter on it and waited a bit i bet it would drop. i still would say 1.5 is not a big deal. my light bar was offered with a solar panel on top to combat parasitic draw. its rated at 2 amps, turned off. want to know for sure? pull the raido and ecm fuses and check.


Wrong 1.5 amp will drain most batteries over night , Simple Ah ( amp/hr)
And also wrong about ecm draining 1.5 for example a 2012 cl i just had in the shop which have 8 diffrent can networks, 2 audio can networks, and 4 diffrent 15 circuits and this car has a sleep draw of 50-70 mA... and that keeps over 60-80 control modules memory... and also if thats the way you test draw better get some extra multi-meter fuses youll need them.
 
guess i will go connect the battery up, give it about 20 min and put my fluke on it. did not know there was a sleep mode.
 
guess i will go connect the battery up, give it about 20 min and put my fluke on it. did not know there was a sleep mode.

i take it you are doing a test using the positive cable, detached and running thru your fluke meter? if so, you must keep it connected thru that connection for a while.
 
Here are several test procedures from the 05 SM. Also, I noted you're reading 13 - 14 volts while the truck is running -- that tells me the charging system is producing a usable output. Do you have any aftermarket electronics on board? If so, I'd check them and the wiring for damages, lose connections, excessive draw, etc.

OPEN-CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST

A battery open-circuit voltage (no load) test will show the approximate state-of-charge of a battery. This test can be used in place of the hydrometer test when a hydrometer is not available, or for maintenance-free batteries with non-removable cell caps.

Before proceeding with this test, completely charge the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE - BATTERY CHARGING).

1. Before measuring the open-circuit voltage, the surface charge must be removed from the battery. Turn on the headlamps for fifteen seconds, then allow up to five minutes for the battery voltage to stabilize.

2. Disconnect and isolate both battery cables, negative cable first.

3. Using a voltmeter connected to the battery posts measure the open-circuit voltage.See the Open-Circuit Voltage Table. This voltage reading will indicate the battery state-of-charge, but will not reveal
its cranking capacity. If a battery has an open-circuit voltage reading of 12.4 volts or greater, it may be load tested to reveal its cranking capacity (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE - USING MICRO 420 BATTERY TESTER).

OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TABLE


Open Circuit Voltage Charge Percentage
11.7 volts or less 0%
12.0 volts 25%
12.2 volts 50%
12.4 volts 75%
12.6 volts or more 100%

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes
(0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.

A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Junction Block (JB). This will reduce battery discharging.

Excessive IOD can be caused by:
Electrical items left on.
Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.

1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer
function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.

2. Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb.

3. Disconnect the battery negative cable.

4. Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale,
depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery
negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.

5. After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC and JB fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after
removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary.
After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.

CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.

6. Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit
breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring
short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.
 
Does yours have a sunroof? There is a bulletin about the sunroof module drawing current and may need to be re-flashed by the dealer.
 

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