Decisions...

[Yellow venom]

If your changing your exhaust I would say 3" for sure!! more flow right? Also you should be able to do all on your list except the flash without warranty problems,right?
Does anyone know is you use the SCT tuner if it will void warranty after its be installed and switched back to stock tune?
My understanding on warranty is they can only void it if they can prove that your mod caused the problem or you changed internal motor parts such as cams,rockers.etc..?

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Thanks for the advice and dealing with my dumbass questions. I can tell you anything you wanna know about apache helicopters, ram srt10... not so much.:dontknow:

 

[Black1]

Bottom Line.... If you are going to GO BIG, then GO BIG.

If you want a nice street killer for the 10 mile drive to "work", then go with a K&N (drop-in) Filter, Stage 2 PCM, and FULL Exhaust. :rock: That "should" put you over 500HP (depending on motor, because they ALL are different)..... and it'll be good fun to beat Mustangs and 'Vette's on the way to work. :rock: :burnout:

Forced Induction and Nitrous ("NOS" is a EVIL word around these parts, we are NOT "ricers" around here ) will ALWAYS need some "tweeking". :bebored: If you want to go on your mission, and then come back and DRIVE your truck, then keep it as close to stock as possible. ..........

NOW! There are many "driveability" issues you have to face in these trucks. ..... The major one, IMO, is the BRAKES. Get a good set of brakes. I would suggest Centric Posi-Quiet brake pads. There is no better brake pad on the market for our Quad-Cabs, In My Opinion. ......... the "Stage 2 PCM" (either from ROE, DC Performance, B&G, or X-Metal) will give you the biggest "bang for the buck" on the QC trucks. ............ An Exhaust, either BB or Magnaflow will help increase the "visceral" feel of the vehicle. I have a Maggy, and I'm happy with it.... although, I've heard the BB (Billy Boat) is a nice system as well.

Good luck, in any path you decide. :burnout:

 

[Prof]

If you are going to go to the 172 degree thermostat, you might take an extra .99 cents and get a 5.6 ohm resistor from Radio Shack and do the Roe Intake Temperature mod too...three minutes work that will keep your pcm from pulling timing when the engine gets a little hot.

 

[amtrucker22]

If you are going to go to the 172 degree thermostat, you might take an extra .99 cents and get a 5.6 ohm resistor from Radio Shack and do the Roe Intake Temperature mod too...three minutes work that will keep your pcm from pulling timing when the engine gets a little hot.

huh? explain please

 

[Prof]

Once the ambient temps get into the 80's or so...and engine temps heat the air entering the intake, there is a sensor that determines the incoming air temp and as the temperature elevates, the pcm starts to pull timing to assure that detonation is avoided. This is what has been referred to as heat soak...

To avoid the pcm pulling timing when you are in need of performance people have put ice on their intake...or other measures. Roe found that putting a small resistor in the line out of the sensor going to the pcm 5-7 ohms...that the pcm was fooled into thinking that the ambient temperature was about 20 degrees cooler than actual...hence the pcm does not pull timing as early as it did without the resistor...there is a thread here somewhere...

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15708&highlight=sluggish

I love Roe Racing!

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Once the ambient temps get into the 80's or so...and engine temps heat the air entering the intake, there is a sensor that determines the incoming air temp and as the temperature elevates, the pcm starts to pull timing to assure that detonation is avoided. This is what has been referred to as heat soak...

To avoid the pcm pulling timing when you are in need of performance people have put ice on their intake...or other measures. Roe found that putting a small resistor in the line out of the sensor going to the pcm 5-7 ohms...that the pcm was fooled into thinking that the ambient temperature was about 20 degrees cooler than actual...hence the pcm does not pull timing as early as it did without the resistor...there is a thread here somewhere...

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15708&highlight=sluggish

I love Roe Racing!

OK according to the other thread I wont need that with a N/A engine ans a stage 2 PCM/SCT

 

[ARRESTmeRed04]

hey dude, on my truck(RC) i've got and ecu, drop in filter, magnaflow, and the 2 rear cats cut off, sounds really good and my truck put 486hp and 525ft lbs, to the ground, if youd like to here it we could meet up for lunch or somethin, i see your from fort hood. i'm out here in academy, about 2 miles from the track.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

hey dude, on my truck(RC) i've got and ecu, drop in filter, magnaflow, and the 2 rear cats cut off, sounds really good and my truck put 486hp and 525ft lbs, to the ground, if youd like to here it we could meet up for lunch or somethin, i see your from fort hood. i'm out here in academy, about 2 miles from the track.

Ya man, whenevers good for you. Just let me know

 

[amtrucker22]

OK according to the other thread I wont need that with a N/A engine ans a stage 2 PCM/SCT

:dito:

 

[hashash]

I have a 2006 QC
1.Magnaflow sounds good and is easy to fit - cheap mod
2.Catless mids, very obvious power gain , truck was very responsive but too loud for me so i took them off.
3.Mopar intake kit , good qaulity but expensive - very cool sound throughout the rev range .you can get an intake from JMB.
4.DC stage 2 pcm , the best mod you can do .
5.XM throttle body , still uninstalled

 

[CDiesel]

I am kinda in the same position as "Ilovethistruck", but I have a 05 RC...I already have magnaflow CB, and KN CAI. Given this current set up, and the fact that it is a RC what would everybody's list be?

Note: I just want to be fast on the street. I rarely make it to the track.