Does anyone here own a "ScanGuage"....

[WOT]

Yep, wideband...


Normal driving mine jump from 14.X to 15.X...occassionally may bump 16-17....but this is normal.......my problem is it goes off the scale lean if I coast in gear then just hit the gas, not WOT but like starting up a hill...stays at 17+ for maybe 2 seconds then jumps back to where it should be....does this from idle too..

Sounds like your accelerator pump shot (programmed functionality in the ECU to mimic what an acclerator pump does, not an actual one) is too lean for your TB or for your injector size.

Or, your fueling table is off a bit around idle and low rpms. It could be that the short term block learn is having to correct it every time just right off idle. Maybe a slight tweak to your program is in order.

On long coast-downs, you should go extrememly lean, i.e., you should go into enleanment mode whereby it cuts all fuel completely. If it is not doing this ever, you need a program tweak. Is your program custom? The reason I ask is that it if you had an issue with throttle tip-in hesitation, your programmer dude could have removed the enleanment mode to try to mask the hesitation. --Just throwing some ideas out there.

 

[TNVIPER]

Sounds like your accelerator pump shot (programmed functionality in the ECU to mimic what an acclerator pump does, not an actual one) is too lean for your TB or for your injector size.

Or, your fueling table is off a bit around idle and low rpms. It could be that the short term block learn is having to correct it every time just right off idle. Maybe a slight tweak to your program is in order.

On long coast-downs, you should go extrememly lean, i.e., you should go into enleanment mode whereby it cuts all fuel completely. If it is not doing this ever, you need a program tweak. Is your program custom? The reason I ask is that it if you had an issue with throttle tip-in hesitation, your programmer dude could have removed the enleanment mode to try to mask the hesitation. --Just throwing some ideas out there.

I have tried 3 different custom dyno tunes by 2 different tuners (Torrie and ProDyno)....all 3 tunes worked fine until about 4 months ago when the lean tip in started gradually getting worse.

I dont think I mentioned that the lean condition is worse when the engine is cold. Once it reaches operating temps 80% of the problem goes away...still trys to lean out at tip in but instead of going off the scale it will just bump the 16s and quickly go back to normal.

 

[WOT]

I have tried 3 different custom dyno tunes by 2 different tuners (Torrie and ProDyno)....all 3 tunes worked fine until about 4 months ago when the lean tip in started gradually getting worse.

I dont think I mentioned that the lean condition is worse when the engine is cold. Once it reaches operating temps 80% of the problem goes away...still trys to lean out at tip in but instead of going off the scale it will just bump the 16s and quickly go back to normal.

If it is getting worse with time, your wideband O2 sensor might be becoming contaminated. That can make them respond funny and falsely show an excessively lean condition when it might be only slightly lean with no problems. You could try putting in a new sensor and see if that changes anything.

Any lean condition will usually act worse on cold start-up as your transitional fueling requirements go way up with a cold intake manifold. So, it seems that you might actually be a little lean on tip-in (but if it doesn't cause drive-ability issues, it is completely harmless). But, I'd be willing to believe that your problem getting worse with time is likely a slow wideband sensor (or, it is a vacuum leak that is slowly getting worse ).

 

[TNVIPER]

If it is getting worse with time, your wideband O2 sensor might be becoming contaminated. That can make them respond funny and falsely show an excessively lean condition when it might be only slightly lean with no problems. You could try putting in a new sensor and see if that changes anything.

Any lean condition will usually act worse on cold start-up as your transitional fueling requirements go way up with a cold intake manifold. So, it seems that you might actually be a little lean on tip-in (but if it doesn't cause drive-ability issues, it is completely harmless). But, I'd be willing to believe that your problem getting worse with time is likely a slow wideband sensor (or, it is a vacuum leak that is slowly getting worse ).

I think the wide band is functioning properly as the engine acts like it is starving for fuel....especially stumbles when the guage hits 17+.........and I need to clarify the getting worse part...it steadly got worse to a point then has not changed in the last 60 days..

I will try Roe's procedure that Bone posted when the trans gets back in tomorrow...hopefully that will fix it..

 

[TNVIPER]

Thanks Bone....Did this procedure and she seems OK now...:rock: :rock: :rock:

Did you try this?

For all 2004-2006 SRT-10 Ram trucks with a Roe Racing supercharger kit. This procedure must be followed if the battery is ever disconnected or drained to the point of the truck not starting.

1. Disconnect all three PCM connectors for about 10 minutes. By doing this, you are erasing the PCM adaptive memory. The PCM is located on the firewall directly above and behind the passenger side front wheel.

2. Disconnect the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the driver’s side of the throttle body. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

3. Disconnect the IAC (idle air control motor) on the air plenum located on the passenger side directly behind the air filter. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

4. With the PCM disconnected, make sure the throttle cable and throttle linkage is adjusted properly for wide-open throttle. The driver’s floor mat should be removed as it can inhibit accelerator pedal travel.

5. After wide-open throttle is verified or adjusted, reconnect the PCM, TPS and IAC connectors after 10 minutes has elapsed from the start of this procedure.

6. Turn the key to the "on" position, but DO NOT start the engine.

7. With the drivers floor mat out of the truck, slowly press the accelerator to full throttle, then repeat. By doing this, you are showing the TPS (throttle position sensor) full throttle. Without this information in the PCM, it will not correctly calculate how to make the engine run properly.

8. Turn the key off then start the truck without touching the accelerator.

9. Let the engine idle for approximately 2-3 minutes.

10. After idling, drive easy, then progressively harder over the course of about 10-20 minutes.

11. The truck will drive differently during the first 20-40 miles because the PCM is learning the new adaptives.



To get the signal for the A/F gauge, tap into one of the wires coming from the O2 sensor going to the VEC3.

 

[Bone]

Super, I've had to do this a few times myself.

 

[TNVIPER]

Super, I've had to do this a few times myself.

Today is the 3rd time I have taken the truck out since doing the procedure and drivability improved even more...the procedure sure did the trick....no more stumble even when the engine is cold...:elefant:

 

[Bone]

Today is the 3rd time I have taken the truck out since doing the procedure and drivability improved even more...the procedure sure did the trick....no more stumble even when the engine is cold...:elefant:

Good times!