engine bulid ideas/questions

Padre

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engine build ideas/questions

Hi Guys,

I´m thinking about to give more horsepower to my truck.
Now my truck have a K&N intake, roe throttle body, bassani headers, borla exhause an a sct setup...

I´m a car mechanic, but in germany i have nobody to ask about how making a viper engine faster.
I hope some of you guys can help me if my plan is good or I will get problems or I need more/another parts...


I prefer ordering my parts vom roe racing...

plan:
-roe 710 camshaft
-comp cam beehive springs
-high performance lifters
-high strenght pushrods
-Port/polish the heads, port/polish the intake
-chromoly flywheel
-centerforce clutch
-high flow cats
-4.88 rear axle ratio
-calvert traction bars
-engine management tune on a dyno


How sounds that?
Can I use the stock cylinderhead gaskets an screws?
Is my stock fuel system effectual?


Padre
 
Last edited:
What is your end goal? How much HP you looking to get put of your engine? Are you adding a power adder? What are you going to be using the truck for? Are you planning on racing it?
 
What is your end goal? How much HP you looking to get put of your engine? Are you adding a power adder? What are you going to be using the truck for? Are you planning on racing it?

Hm, I don´t know, I have no end goal in my head. I will see what the dyno says...

A power adder is a turbo or charger right? Not yet, maybe in the future...

Just driving around at my place...

No, not racing...
 
do the gen 4 conversion with a ported polished head's cam,high compression piston etc...

ill have some dyno results in a month or so as soon as everything is complete expected gains 225hp plus,,
 
Mine is getting assembled right now:

Cp coated forged pistons 9.6-1
K1 rods
Roe 710 cam
Program billet mains
Mopar performance lifters
Stainless valves
Comp springs
Stage 1 port/polish
Arp head studs
Hardened pushrods
And some other little mods and secrets... :D
 
Things to add to your list:

Program billet main caps
Main studs
Head studs
Cometic head gaskits
ATI harmonic balancer

Things to remove:

performance lifters - there is nothing wrong with the OEM lifters.

The stock fuel system is good to 750 hp, obviously with different injectors. You need to decide what end result you want, it makes a big difference on what compression and camshaft specs you will use.
 
Mine is getting assembled right now:

Cp coated forged pistons 9.6-1
K1 rods
Roe 710 cam
Program billet mains
Mopar performance lifters
Stainless valves
Comp springs
Stage 1 port/polish
Arp head studs
Hardened pushrods
And some other little mods and secrets... :D

OOOOOOOOO, secrets.......:D
 
Hi Guys,

I´m thinking about to give more horsepower to my truck.
Now my truck have a K&N intake, roe throttle body, bassani headers, borla exhause an a sct setup...

I´m a car mechanic, but in germany i have nobody to ask about how making a viper engine faster.
I hope some of you guys can help me if my plan is good or I will get problems or I need more/another parts...


I prefer ordering my parts vom roe racing...

plan:
-roe 710 camshaft
-comp cam beehive springs
-high performance lifters
-high strenght pushrods
-Port/polish the heads, port/polish the intake
-chromoly flywheel
-centerforce clutch
-high flow cats
-4.88 rear axle ratio
-calvert traction bars
-engine management tune on a dyno


How sounds that?
Can I use the stock cylinderhead gaskets an screws?
Is my stock fuel system effectual?


Padre
That is one way to go.

O.E.M. head gaskets are fine.
Your head bolts are good for (3) uses.
The fuel system in the trucks is fine.
 
Hi Guys,

I´m thinking about to give more horsepower to my truck.
Now my truck have a K&N intake, roe throttle body, bassani headers, borla exhause an a sct setup...

I´m a car mechanic, but in germany i have nobody to ask about how making a viper engine faster.
I hope some of you guys can help me if my plan is good or I will get problems or I need more/another parts...


I prefer ordering my parts vom roe racing...

plan:
-roe 710 camshaft
-comp cam beehive springs
-high performance lifters
-high strenght pushrods
-Port/polish the heads, port/polish the intake
-chromoly flywheel
-centerforce clutch
-high flow cats
-4.88 rear axle ratio
-calvert traction bars
-engine management tune on a dyno


How sounds that?
Can I use the stock cylinderhead gaskets an screws?
Is my stock fuel system effectual?


Padre

your good all but the camshaft flywheel clutch and gears, the gears arre too much when you make a little hp

the cam is an all around cam, one designed excatly for what you are doing ends up giving a better hp and drivability
the centerforce well thats personal preference
you need an oem flywheel for wieght

but decide what you are goin to do before building, if forced induction it matters what compression, rings, coatings you run
depending on induction whether or not billet mains is needed
nitriding the crankshaft

alot more to it than shopping in a catalogue or jsut picking striker heads


yes we do more than hoods an bling, we do the engine thing too
 
1. your good all but the camshaft flywheel clutch and gears, the gears arre too much when you make a little hp

the cam is an all around cam, one designed excatly for what you are doing ends up giving a better hp and drivability
2. the centerforce well thats personal preference
you need an oem flywheel for wieght

3. but decide what you are goin to do before building, if forced induction it matters what compression, rings, coatings you run
4. depending on induction whether or not billet mains is needed
nitriding the crankshaft

5. alot more to it than shopping in a catalogue or jsut picking striker heads


6. yes we do more than hoods an bling, we do the engine thing too


1. do you mean the rear axle ratio? 4.88 is not a good idea?
2. why is a another flywheel no good idea??
3. Ok, I know...
4. Is the stock crankshaft not nitrided?
5. I know. We build some engines, but never a viper engine.
6. ähm, what??


Things to add to your list:

Program billet main caps
Main studs
Head studs
Cometic head gaskits
ATI harmonic balancer

Things to remove:

performance lifters - there is nothing wrong with the OEM lifters.

The stock fuel system is good to 750 hp, obviously with different injectors. You need to decide what end result you want, it makes a big difference on what compression and camshaft specs you will use.

Are the studs and main caps necessary?
I don´t what to go over 750hp. What Injektors do I need?



Thank´s

Padre
 
1. do you mean the rear axle ratio? 4.88 is not a good idea? if y ou decide to go forced induction it will spool way to quickly and the gears will not be usable
2. why is a another flywheel no good idea?? an aluminum flywheel is too light for most, the trucks need inertia to get moving, the oem or a heavier flywheel helps this
3. Ok, I know...
4. Is the stock crankshaft not nitrided? no sir its not
5. I know. We build some engines, but never a viper engine.
6. ähm, what??I was being a jackass to a snide commented made at one time




Are the studs and main caps necessary? billet mains an studs are a good idea for anything over 700, the oem caps are small and weak and tend to walk around a bit when pushed with alot of boost
I don´t what to go over 750hp. What Injektors do I need?



Thank´s

Padre

Have agreat weekend padre
 
What is the perfekt ratio for my rear axle?
I wanna use the 6. gear on the german highway. My Truck don´t get fast in the 6. gear... More acceleration is fine as well...

nitriding the crankshaft is no problem...

Are the oem main studs and rods good till 750hp?
looks fine for me...
 
What is the perfekt ratio for my rear axle?
I wanna use the 6. gear on the german highway. My Truck don´t get fast in the 6. gear... More acceleration is fine as well...

nitriding the crankshaft is no problem...

Are the oem main studs and rods good till 750hp?
looks fine for me...

there is a speed chart somewhere, maybe walbert can look it up , I have to run out to get windows tinted for a customer today, but on the oem rods and studs, when I get back I will post up a pic from what happens to a stock set at 700hp, basically you can see thru the block
 
Are the studs and main caps necessary?
I don´t what to go over 750hp. What Injektors do I need?



Thank´s

Padre

Studs and caps are necessary depending on what you are going to be doing. I would do them just for the reassurance.

I have no idea what injectors you will need, that will depend completely on what hp level you end up building.
 
oem rods and results of 700 hp
100_1942.jpg


100_1941.jpg


100_1940.jpg


100_1939.jpg
 
The data for the 4.11 is straight out of Car and Driver. I extrapolated the speeds for the other gear ratios from that data. I also dropped the Transmission Gear Ratio and MPH/1000 rpm from the other data sheets as it does not contribute to the data that most owners are interested in.

Transmission 6-speed manual
Final-drive ratio 4.11:1, limited slip
Gear Ratio Mph/1000 rpm Max test speed
I - 2.66 - 8.3 - 50 mph (6000 rpm)
II - 1.78 - 12.4 - 74 mph (6000 rpm)
III - 1.30 - 17.0 - 102 mph (6000 rpm)
IV - 1.00 - 22.1 - 133 mph (6000 rpm)
V - 0.74 - 29.8 - 153 mph (5100 rpm)
VI - 0.50 - 44.2 - 153 mph (3500 rpm)

Okay, some quick conversions for 4.56 gears.
I - 44.5 mph @ 6000rpm
II - 65.9 mph @ 6000rpm
III - 90.8 mph @ 6000rpm
IV - 118.4 mph @ 6000rpm
V - 153 mph = 5726rpm (160.3 mph @ 6000rpm)
VI - 153 mph = 3930rpm (6000rpm in sixth? To damn fast)

For 4.88's
I - 41.4 @ 6000rpm
II - 61.3 @ 6000rpm
III - 84.4 @ 6000rpm
IV - 110.1 @ 6000rpm
V - 149.1 @ 6000rpm
VI - 220.2 @ 6000rpm

For 5.13's
I - 38.9 @ 6000rpm
II - 57.7 @ 6000rpm
III - 79.5 @ 6000rpm
IV - 103.6 @ 6000rpm
V - 140.3 @ 6000rpm
VI - 207.2 @ 6000rpm

For 5.38's
I - 36.5 @ 6000rpm
II - 54.1 @ 6000rpm
III - 74.5 @ 6000rpm
IV - 97.1 @ 6000rpm
V - 131.5 @ 6000rpm
VI - 194.2 @ 6000rpm
 
Peak-a-boo!! Now that is , what some refer to as, "a windowed Block"
 

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