heads swap

br549

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deep south texas
i would like to get a set of HP heads ,,,and would like to stay N/A,,whitch heads would work best and what other changes do i need to do to install them ,,i have heard about strikers heads but also heard you have to swap cam ,,
plus what type of gains would this give and would forged internals be needed ,
not looking for massive h/p gains but would like some it to be some what cost effective with good to moderate gains and still be street drivable,

i already have most bolt on stuff,high flow cats w/ 3in mids /CAI/xmetal T/B ,caltracs,sct stage 2 tune,cat-back
 
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br549 said:
i would like to get a set of HP heads ,,,and would like to stay N/A,,whitch heads would work best and what other changes do i need to do to install them ,,i have heard about strikers heads but also heard you have to swap cam ,,
plus what type of gains would this give and would forged internals be needed ,
not looking for massive h/p gains but would like some it to be some what cost effective with good to moderate gains and still be street drivable,

i already have most bolt on stuff,high flow cats w/ 3in mids /CAI/xmetal T/B ,caltracs,sct stage 2 tune,cat-back

strykers will run you about $6500 or so, but you can find someone to port your heads, put in a good set of springs and valves, end result may be around $4000 depending on who does it.

you may want to get a set of head studs by arp, and a upper head gasket set.

a cam is good, you can contact Dragon and see about getting a 708 cam, they are a good NA cam, but a cam is not needed, but would complete the package and net you the most gains.

also you cn have the intake tru honed, and it helps a ton too
 
do a search of my threads. I had the exact same question and got many good replies. Unfortunately, something happened during my head swap and despite any tests I run, i still cant find the problem. Either could the dealer or another shop (yet). Just bought a new pcm so waiting to see if that was the issue. Damn it man....alot of people now looking for heads. Where were you guys a month ago when i was selling mine? LOL
 
br549 said:
i would like to get a set of HP heads ,,,and would like to stay N/A,,whitch heads would work best and what other changes do i need to do to install them ,,i have heard about strikers heads but also heard you have to swap cam ,,
plus what type of gains would this give and would forged internals be needed ,
not looking for massive h/p gains but would like some it to be some what cost effective with good to moderate gains and still be street drivable,

i already have most bolt on stuff,high flow cats w/ 3in mids /CAI/xmetal T/B ,caltracs,sct stage 2 tune,cat-back

The Strikers don't NEED a cam but in the big picture a cam swap (with the Strikers) is a cheap 30 horsepower.

I went from 423 to 566 wheel with the heads and cam swap.

As far as cost effective, I also gained a solid 20% in gas mileage. The Strikers have a fast-burn combustion chamber and will allow for a bit more compression, which is what I did (it also provided more power) and it still runs really well on good pump gas.

According to DC Performance, there is 80 H.P. in the Strikers, 30 in the cam and 30 in the compression increase. Looking back, their guesstimates were bang on.

No forged internals but a SAFE tune!

Now if I could just get 2nd and 3rd gear in the auto to last more than 6000 miles....

P.S. I HAVE A SET OF GENTLY USED M&H DRAG RADIALS AND 058 EAGLE ALLOY WHEELS (MOUNTED AND BALANCED) FOR SALE...
 
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rottenronnie said:
The Strikers don't NEED a cam but in the big picture a cam swap (with the Strikers) is a cheap 30 horsepower.

I went from 423 to 566 wheel with the heads and cam swap.

As far as cost effective, I also gained a solid 20% in gas mileage. The Strikers have a fast-burn combustion chamber and will allow for a bit more compression, which is what I did (it also provided more power) and still run good pump gas.

According to DC Performance, there is 80 H.P. in the Strikers, 30 in the cam and 30 in the compression increase. Looking back, their guesstimates were bang on.

No forged internals but a SAFE tune!
really ?? nice numbers........ how much did it change your 1/4 mile times ?

did you buy from dc performance & how much ?
 
moparracing said:
really ?? nice numbers........ how much did it change your 1/4 mile times ?

did you buy from dc performance & how much ?

I chopped 1.25 seconds off of the 1/4 mile time (and gets a 1.8 second 60 foot with a 1200 r.p.m. launch).

No not from DC, I bought right from JM Cylinder heads through a group buy put together by Nathan. $6995 plus cam, plus valve cover spacers.
I wish some of the others that were in on the buy would post their findings..

Note to BR549: Stay conservative on the cam. Anything much over 270 @ .050 in a heavy truck and.... it aint' pretty.
Like Stinker said, the 708 is a good choice for a N.A. build.
 
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moparracing said:
how much does it help in hp & cost ?

Bump.

I left the port mismatch in an attempt to control reversion and to keep velocity high at our altitude.

Jeff Morys (JM Cylinder heads) said.. quote: "Well if you don't port match, it won't cost you 20 horsepower or anything like that" end quote.

Around 400 bucks to port...And it DOES improve top-end apparently.
 
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rottenronnie said:
I chopped 1.25 seconds off of the 1/4 mile time (with 1.8 second 60 foots).

No not from DC, I bought right from JM Cylinder heads through a group buy put together by Nathan. $6995 plus cam, plus valve cover spacers.
good info, thanks ron !!! :)
 

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