Help! Can't Engage Gear (Any!)

[moparracing]

It's not included............ Ya just need to keep the clutchlines away from all the heat/ exhaust n shit somehow...

D

it actually was in my roe kit........

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=92&idproduct=236

jmb's kit too:
http://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_113_106&products_id=257

 

[Carlwalski]

Just looking at my engine bay, cable ties are in place. Wonder if cable tying some more and pulling some of the cables tight will help with the heat thing? I will bleed the clutch and if that's no good I will check the shifter. Mine is JMB so I must have it, was it visible in the last two photos I attached? :dontknow:

 

[moparracing]

Just looking at my engine bay, cable ties are in place. Wonder if cable tying some more and pulling some of the cables tight will help with the heat thing? I will bleed the clutch and if that's no good I will check the shifter. Mine is JMB so I must have it, was it visible in the last two photos I attached? :dontknow:

it's that cloth-like material covering the steel braided line as seen in the pics of the two link's i posted..... didn't really see it your pics... either it's slipped down or wasn't put back on in the swap ??:dontknow:

hopefully, your hyd's weren't damaged in the swap.

 

[Carlwalski]

Thanks mate, I will check to see. If not, I may buy some heat shield material and cover the lines, any and all that are close.

 

[Carlwalski]

OK lads, I had a look at some of the parts that came back with my truck after conversion, old bits etc. There was the old slave cylinder setup and two brackets that I'm not sure what/where they go. One looks new (the on in the pack). There is/was also a rubber boot of some sort, again, it looks brand new. These maybe parts that could not fit on a right hand drive car, what are they and could this be helping cause my gear engagement problem?

I also took some snaps under the hood. There is no protective wrap on any lines. Is the line I've marked the one I need to insulate/protect? Surely this can be done while the system gets bled? It's not on anything hot though, all lines are far away from the heads, unless the booster/cylinder itself gets very hot? As it's main line from the cylinder is sitting directly on the brake master cylinder itself at the moment, see photos.


Thanks,
Carl

 

[moparracing]

OK lads, I had a look at some of the parts that came back with my truck after conversion, old bits etc. There was the old slave cylinder setup and two brackets that I'm not sure what/where they go. One looks new (the on in the pack). There is/was also a rubber boot of some sort, again, it looks brand new. These maybe parts that could not fit on a right hand drive car, what are they and could this be helping cause my gear engagement problem?

I also took some snaps under the hood. There is no protective wrap on any lines. Is the line I've marked the one I need to insulate/protect? Surely this can be done while the system gets bled? It's not on anything hot though, all lines are far away from the heads, unless the booster/cylinder itself gets very hot? As it's main line from the cylinder is sitting directly on the brake master cylinder itself at the moment, see photos.


Thanks,
Carl

the first pic is of the old non-viper master cylinder & the line you marked in the other pic is wrong - cover the metal braided line, like in your first pic.

your mounting of the new master clutch cylinder is on the opposite side of the brake booster than where mine is mounted (farthest from the exhaust manifold)..... can't help heat sitting ontop of the exhaust.

 

[Carlwalski]

Thanks Moparracing, Please confirm that I should wrap line "A" in heat wrap like the original line. It won't hurt covering the one sitting on the brake master cylinder either so I will do this too, I think that would heat up on long trips. Do you know what the rubber boot thing maybe from? It's not for the shifter, is it?


Thanks again.

 

[moparracing]

Thanks Moparracing, Please confirm that I should wrap line "A" in heat wrap like the original line. It won't hurt covering the one sitting on the brake master cylinder either so I will do this too, I think that would heat up on long trips. Do you know what the rubber boot thing maybe from? It's not for the shifter, is it?


Thanks again.

yes, the line you marked in the pic.....

now the boot question - are you talking about the one in the plastic bag ?? that's for around the base of the shifter, probably not needed if the one on your truck originally was ok.

 

[Carlwalski]

Thanks mate, but I'm talking about the rubber boot in the middle of the steel outter ring, my bad, should have made it more clear. Looks like it's off a shifter folk or something similar, again, it's brand new, part of the Gen-X kit perhaps? :dontknow:

 

[moparracing]

that one i'm not too sure about, but if i were to guess - i'd say it's a boot from the firewall (for clutch, brake or steering) from your rhd conversion ??:dontknow:

 

[Marc T]

Have you re-centered the shifter yet? This would be very easy to do and rule out if not!!

 

[Carlwalski]

Nope, haven't yet, will bled never the less, it won't hurt. The shifter sounds more difficult, if I'm correct this requires the console to be removed, yes? Mine is custom so I'm very hesitant, I have no idea what they did different from the factory at the conversion shop. It shifts 100% perfectly into each gear with the truck off. Will cross that bridge if the bleed doesn't fix anything.

 

[FastRam]

Carl, definitely wrap that braided line. Also, check the fluid level for the clutch master cylinder. Sometimes its something simple that cause the greatest headaches. Let us know if the bleeding helps or resolves the problem. And if you need to tear into the consule, post up some pics. I'm sure our forum will be able to walk you thru this. Or contact your shop and ask them how to remove it without damaging it.

 

[Marc T]

Nope, haven't yet, will bled never the less, it won't hurt. The shifter sounds more difficult, if I'm correct this requires the console to be removed, yes? Mine is custom so I'm very hesitant, I have no idea what they did different from the factory at the conversion shop. It shifts 100% perfectly into each gear with the truck off. Will cross that bridge if the bleed doesn't fix anything.

I believe you can acces the bolts with just removing the Leather Boot ring, kind of a pain but it can be done!!

 

[yellowfever#154]

To bleed your clutch just make sure the reservoir has lots of fluid in it, crack the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and let it sit for a few hours. Making sure that you periodically check the fluid level so it doesnt go too low and pull fluid into the master cylinder. Thats what I did with mine and it has worked great for 3000 miles.

 

[Carlwalski]

Thanks guys, it's still at the shop. They bleed the clutch and started the truck, it shifts fine however there is a still a leak. Shifter is fine, car functions as per normal but it loses liquid therefore losing pressure on the clutch engagement side of things. Talking to someone in chat last night they think it maybe the actual slave cylinder itself leaking goo. It may have a hairline fracture, we'll find it. I've already purchased a new slave cylinder from Roe Racing with some other goodies. Just need to find the leak for sure and go from there. Apparanetly the cause can be from the clutch and bits not aligned properly prior to installing the transmission, then just "jamming" the trans in and therefore breaking the SC. Will keep you posted for reference as well just to let you know.

 

[Carlwalski]

UPDATE >>>>>>>>>

Hi guys, my truck has been in the shop getting bits and pieces put in since the 11th of June, custom RH header (RHD), Roe Racing stuff, lowering kit, etc so lots of out sourcing work and time eaten up from the headers. Anyhow, we found the clutch problem a while ago and it's an awkward thing to fix. The problem is the hydraulic clutch hose from the firewall to the trans (bear with me, my terminology won't be the best) and there are 2 (maybe 3?) crimped factory clips on each end. When trucks get converted there is no one locally who can fix the problem and make a brand new house using the original. We sent it away to 3 shops, no one could help.

The reason is the hose needs to be longer to reach for a RHD vehicle so the conversion shop made 3 separate joins (not sure why 3), one of these leaked and emptied out the clutch hydraulic fluid on my driveway, hence the lack of gear engagement. You can see around one of the joins that it's completely saturated and obviously the point of the leak ie: the trouble spot. The problem has been found so I'm happy about that but my shop has asked to see if we can purchase the "clips" that crimp to the hose anywhere so they can make a new hose setup from scratch, it's probably going to be the only way and we want 1 hose, fit to length, not 1 joined in 2 places as it will probably happen again. I haven't seen these crimp style clamps in person yet but they must be an odd unit as we can usually source anything locally.


Hope this makes sense, thank you for your time.
I will update to tomorrow when I go into the shop with some photos of this hose/clips.

 

[Carlwalski]

Hi guys,



Here are the two fittings I need, duh, I just realised I had the stock one to take photos of in the garage. Anyhow, problem is no one can take these off and re-clamp them, obviously they get damaged upon removal. The shop asked me to ask you guys or for me to try and track down the 2 fittings at either ends (see photos) brand new unclamped and if possible some of that style hose around 2 metres worth (1800mm / 70"+) so we can cut it to fit. I asked the shop if we can get that hose here and the guy said it's awkward and hard to find so just enquire about the hose as well. Won't hurt. Hoping someone can help, I will try a few dealers as well. I'm guessing you can't buy these at your local hardware store over there? lol



Thanks,
Carl