help... i'm slow!

[wesalbert]

I spent considerable time trying to get someone at Dodge to admit to retarding the cams in the 2006 Gen IIIs to meet emissions. Both the high ring-lands and the high bleed-down lifters are items that help reduce emissions, so these engines were struggling to meet them in the first place. Unfortunately, with an engine that ceased production 5 years ago and WAS advertised as having 500 horsepower, it is unlikely anyone at Dodge would admit to it. If the engines don't meet emissions, they can't be sold...

Especially with the high bleed down lifters, there is no quick/easy test to see if the cam IS retarded in any given Gen III engine. For example, a simple spot-check compression test is inconclusive.

Now that Burt's truck IS fixed, it is a lot easier for us to check an engine out to determine if cam timing is the issue or not.
Ronnie

So whats the fix? Cam swap? :dontknow:

 

[rottenronnie]

So whats the fix? Cam swap? :dontknow:

If that is what is wrong with this particular engine. I can't tell from here..

Because it is a fairly big job to change the cam in one of these trucks or even be able to check the cam timing, you might as well put in a bit of a performance cam while you are at it and are that deep into the engine.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

So Ronnie, do you recommend Gen 2 lifters and Gen 4 springs with my future Coupe cam to maximize potential? Also gonna need one of your UD pulleys as well to compliment my package.

 

[rottenronnie]

So Ronnie, do you recommend Gen 2 lifters and Gen 4 springs with my future Coupe cam to maximize potential? Also gonna need one of your UD pulleys as well to compliment my package.

I don't know how radical you want to go with your engine mods so the Gen IIs might not be needed. It depends on who you talk to..

Springs- I like the beehives we use; they are tough as nails, gentle on the valve train and hold their pressures for a LONG time. But again it depends how radical you plan on going ??..??

We are currently working on some new lifter wishbones that will allow for greater flexibility in lifter choices and r.p.m. limits.

You can get into lifter "lofting" and such, but I recommend just keeping it simple and use the correct cam grind consistent with your head mods.

The coupe cam is an elderly piece. There are better ones out there.

Under-Drive pulleys and belts are in stock.

Thanks

Ronnie

 

[evanandretti]

Ronnie, ballpark cost for a cam swap? Just so I have an idea what I may be getting into... Thanks for all your info. Oh and how long would you need the truck for?

You got a bed and breakfast??? :marchmellow:

 

[rottenronnie]

Ronnie, ballpark cost for a cam swap? Just so I have an idea what I may be getting into... Thanks for all your info. Oh and how long would you need the truck for?

You got a bed and breakfast??? :marchmellow:

I've sent you a pm.
We have over a million people here in Calgary so you should be able to find a place to sleep and eat...
Come down to Vegas for the "Mopars at the Strip" on April 8th and we can yak for a few days...

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Okay, you guys probably seen I posted 20-60 videos with not very good results IMO. As I said before truck is parked and cant get to a dyno or track. I know it's tough to tell anything without dynoing... but I think I am without a doubt slightly slower then a 'normal' stock truck. A member from the SRT 10 Forum did a video for me with a 50-70mph pull. His was barely two seconds and my truck is over 3. Only difference is his is an 05 and mines an 06. Both RC. Also my truck will do 20-60 in just under 5 seconds, which should be the 0-60 time.

Also most guys are saying when going WOT in first at most speeds they can break the tires loose instantly... as I cannot. Especially with temps below zero i think this truck should fly.

I've heard of cam issues causing low horsepower, rings not seating, TPS sensor, clogged cats, plugs...

Truck is completely stock besides volant CAI. 12,000 miles. New clutch. Runs great otherwise.

Where do I start? Anything I can check right now as I can't get to a dyno?

Best thing to do is if you want it to run and run right and be fast outta the box, is bring it to us, get it done right and right the first time man

 

[evanandretti]

Best thing to do is if you want it to run and run right and be fast outta the box, is bring it to us, get it done right and right the first time man

If I had the cash I would... you are more then far away. :argh:

 

[evanandretti]

What does a computer reset do in terms of 'learning the way it's been driven'. Can't make that much of a difference right?

 

[rottenronnie]

What does a computer reset do in terms of 'learning the way it's been driven'. Can't make that much of a difference right?

A hard reset: Removing both battery cables and touching them together briefly is the only reset worth doing. After restarting the engine, there will be a brief period where the computer will "learn" about ambient temperature, coolant temperature, barometric pressure and other base values.
It can't learn, for example, that the compression ratio has changed, the cam has been replaced, the cats have been removed, etc. The parameters to deal with those changes are tweaked by a tuner in the appropriate tuning tables.

Is that what you were after?

 

[evanandretti]

A hard reset: Removing both battery cables and touching them together briefly is the only reset worth doing. After restarting the engine, there will be a brief period where the computer will "learn" about ambient temperature, coolant temperature, barometric pressure and other base values.
It can't learn, for example, that the compression ratio has changed, the cam has been replaced, the cats have been removed, etc. The parameters to deal with those changes are tweaked by a tuner in the appropriate tuning tables.

Is that what you were after?

Yes, this helps. Thanks again