HELP - Manual Transmission won't shift

TDay

TDay

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I have a 2005 Ram SRT-10 RC with manual tranny and less than 6000 miles It has never been abused. It is now having transmission troubles.

When I pulled it into the drive way and started to back up it wouldn't go into reverse. Then it wouldn't go into first without difficulty. I thought I just must have gotten the synchronizers confused and let it go. So, the next day I got into it and I couldn't get it to go into any gear with the engine running. With the engine off I could change the gears. I checked the hydraulic fluid and topped it off, just in case it was low, but that did not seem to help it.

Any idea what I should look at or do to fix the problem? Any of y'all ever have this problem? My baby is broken.

-TDay.
:dontknow:
 
sounds like the clutch is not releasein.

clutch feel ok???
 
You will find this in many, many posts on this site and it was one of the first things I did when I got my 05' RC. I flushed and bled the master / slave system with Motul 600.

I was shocked at how much air, dark (burnt fluid) and white lithium grease looking junk came out!

At the same time, I replaced the grey cement Castrol (Factory Fill) trans fluid with Redline D4 synthetic. This totally transformed how the trans shifted!

Try this and I hope it works for you!
 
i bet your slave cylinder has gone out...

with the miles, that's the first guess...

you can try and bleed and refill the hydraulic system, but i bet you'll start to see seepage, if you don't already...
 
ZCx said:
sounds like the clutch is not releasein.

clutch feel ok???
Click to expand...

With the engine off, it seems to release ok. Just doesn't seem to release when the engine is running.

-t
 
I've not noticed any leakage but I haven't had a chance to check it very closely yet.

I've been covered up at work, but I'm going to get under the truck this weekend and check it out.

Sounds like these are the things to do: Check the Slave cyl and bleed the system.

1. Where would I find the slave cyl and how to check it?
2. Where is the bleed screw so I can try to bleed the system and refill it.

Anything else I should look at?

The clutch seems to release ok when the engine is off but not when it is on.

-t
 
Keep in mind, this topic has been covered a TON on this site. A good search would find you plenty. Here is what I took and saved. It should help you alot.....

JSTVP Clutch Bleed:

1. fill the resevior up on top.

2. remove the cap.

3. loosen the fitting at the tranny, put a pan below it and let it drip and run for a good 3-40 min, checking and keeping it full.

4. tighten the bleeder , have someone inside depress the pedle "slowyly" and i mean slowly, the fluid will cavitate if its done too quickly.

5. now when the pedal is on the floor, open the bleeder, and before the fluid finishes comming out, close the bleeder, then slowly release the pedal,
and then depress the pedal about 3 times slowly, and hold, open bleeder, close. After about 5-6 times like this you should start to feel a pedal.


Second Opinion from VTCOA:

1. Fill it with fluid.

2. Then Real slowly pump the clutch to the floor and hold it there. Then on cue have a 2nd person open the bleeder screw for a second or two and then shut.

3. Repeat this like 10 times. Remember to push the clutch slowly. Then you will feel like your building up a pedal, then you press the pedal slowly again
right when it feels like its start to build some tension have 2nd person open the bleeder screw, as soon as you open the screw the pedal will drop fast,
tell him to close the screw before the clutch pedal goes to the bottom. repeat like 7-10 times and you should be good.
 
Last edited:
Psycho1122 said:
Keep in mind, this topic has been covered a TON on this site. A good search would find you plenty. Here is what I took and saved. It should help you alot.....

JSTVP Clutch Bleed:

1. fill the resevior up on top.

2. remove the cap.

3. loosen the fitting at the tranny, put a pan below it and let it drip and run for a good 3-40 min, checking and keeping it full.

4. tighten the bleeder , have someone inside depress the pedle "slowyly" and i mean slowly, the fluid will cavitate if its done too quickly.

5. now when the pedal is on the floor, open the bleeder, and before the fluid finishes comming out, close the bleeder, then slowly release the pedal,
and then depress the pedal about 3 times slowly, and hold, open bleeder, close. After about 5-6 times like this you should start to feel a pedal.


Second Opinion from VTCOA:

1. Fill it with fluid.

2. Then Real slowly pump the clutch to the floor and hold it there. Then on cue have a 2nd person open the bleeder screw for a second or two and then shut.

3. Repeat this like 10 times. Remember to push the clutch slowly. Then you will feel like your building up a pedal, then you press the pedal slowly again
right when it feels like its start to build some tension have 2nd person open the bleeder screw, as soon as you open the screw the pedal will drop fast,
tell him to close the screw before the clutch pedal goes to the bottom. repeat like 7-10 times and you should be good.
Click to expand...


:rock:
Thanks.
I really appreaciate your help and you taking time to type up these instructions. I'll print them out and take them with me to check it out.

I searched the site for "transmission problems" earlier and didn't really find too much. Perhaps I used the wrong phrase to search on. I'll search again.


-t
 
After closer investigation, here's what I'm finding:

The fluid level is good and is clear.

-->However, I am finding that the clutch is NOT fully disengaging. That's why I can't change gears when the engine is running.

The pedal goes halfway to the floor before I feel any pressure and the pedal must be on the floor before I can change gears when the engine if off. When the engine is running I can not change gears at all. Apparantly because the clutch won't fully disengage.

In the old days, I would simply adjust the threaded rod that went to the clutch linkage but with this one I don't know what to adjust.

When I looked at it, all I saw was a braided line going from the resevoir to the tranny and what looks like a bleeder a couple inches above where the braided line goes into the tranny. I don't see any means to adjust the clutch engagement point.

Is there and adjustment somewhere to change the engagement?

-t
 
no adjustments:(:mad:

try bleedin. gravity bleed has worked well for me.

if that don't do it, probably a seal in either the master or slave
 
Something else I noticed when I was under the truck checking out the tranny,
Neither the bleeder nor the braided line seem very solidly attached. I can juggle them quite a bit. Is that normal?

-t
 
ZCx said:
no adjustments:(:mad:

try bleedin. gravity bleed has worked well for me.

if that don't do it, probably a seal in either the master or slave
Click to expand...

^ Do this, gravity bleed is the way to go.

Loosen the bleed screw, fill the reservoir to the top. Go get a beer and watch the fluid level, top the fluid level up every so often when it drops. You can flush the entire system doing this and ensuring there is no air in the system. After some time has passed then tighten the bleed screw.

After new fluid is in the system and it still doesnt work then contact Tony and get his master/slave cylinder kit and install it.
 
TDay said:
Something else I noticed when I was under the truck checking out the tranny,
Neither the bleeder nor the braided line seem very solidly attached. I can juggle them quite a bit. Is that normal?

-t
Click to expand...

What is quite a bit? Will either item contact the opening in the bellhousing? Is there any marks indicating these items hitting the bellhousing? I would say they should be firmly attached. Maybe your screws that retain the slave to the transmission have fallen out, or are loose?
 
it could be that your master has gone out not allowing the fluid to build pressure when you press the clutch...

i thought that's what happened last time... but it was the slave... and i had no leaks... until it went on the rollback and all the fluid then started pouring out when it was up in the air at a 20* angle lol...
 
yellowfever#154 said:
What is quite a bit? Will either item contact the opening in the bellhousing? Is there any marks indicating these items hitting the bellhousing? I would say they should be firmly attached. Maybe your screws that retain the slave to the transmission have fallen out, or are loose?
Click to expand...

Both seem loose. They won't turn in or out by hand but they wiggle. I can move the one with the braided hose forward and back about 1/8" and the bleed screw moves a lot, about 1/4". It's really loose. Also the bleed is wet with fluid like there is some seepage.

The one with the braided line (bottom one) is touching the tranny case and has a slight mark on it where it has made contact.

Something ain't right in there.

How do I get to the slave to check the screws you mentioned?

-t
 
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